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Message Board > Fitting Woes > How Do You Make a Muslin for a Pattern with Stretch ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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How Do You Make a Muslin for a Pattern with Stretch
Want to make a muslin for Jalie stretch jeans
sewpatty
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sewpatty  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 1/9/10
Posts: 394
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Date: 12/30/10 9:19 AM

I want to make a fitting muslin for Jalie Stretch Jeans #2908.

Do you just use a regular woven cotton knowing that you might not be able to sit in them?? Suggestions? What have others tried?

Thank you.

Patty

------
Machines:
Juki TL98Q Lockstitch
Juki Exceed F-600
Janome Coverpro 1000cpx Coverhem
White Superlock 1900 Serger
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Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
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MO USA
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In reply to sewpatty


Date: 12/30/10 9:26 AM

You should always use fabric for muslins that have a similar amount of stretch to the final product.

If you can't find stretch denim inexpensively, usually stretch twill can be had very reasonably, and will work for your muslin.

Make sure your muslin fabric stretches to the same degree as your final fabric.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/10 9:51 AM

When I made my muslin for this pattern I found some cheap-o stretch twill a the local fabric warehouse. Beware! Try to find fabric that has a VERY similar amount of stretch to the fabric you plan to use as your real jeans. I've made this pattern 6 times and each pair fits a bit different due to very slight changes in fabric.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

TanitIsis
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TanitIsis
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AB CANADA
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Date: 12/30/10 11:50 AM

I will warn you that the differences between fabric is the wild-card for sewing these---by all means use a stretch twill to get the fit generally right, but expect to do some fitting each time, mostly to the side-seam, as all stretch wovens will behave a little differently (and not in predictable ways). I generally try mine on as soon as I get the outer side seam sewn (no waistband) and try to wear them around the house this way for a few hours to see how they fit over time (as stretch denim will stretch out as you wear it), then adjust the side-seam as necessary. I interface my waistband to keep it stable, so this doesn't vary as much from fabric to fabric as the rest of the jeans. (Why yes, I've made this pattern five times now, why do you ask?)

Erica B.
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Erica B.
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Date: 12/30/10 12:48 PM

This is one of those projects that you may have to make twice to get them the way you want them. I really don't think there is any substitute.

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Erica B.
Birmingham, AL
http://www.ericabunker.com

goosegreen
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goosegreen  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/10 6:16 PM

When I made these jeans, I used a previous pair of jeans that were unfinished and too big for me as my muslin. They didn't have the same stretch as my real fabric but I knew that. I just wanted to see if the size I'd picked would actually go around me. It did but it was skin tight! So I knew the 4% fabric would be fine (and it was). Mind you, there are things I will change when I make them again. But that's the fun of sewing, right?

Edited to add:

Another thing I did was the measure (at the hip) a pair of RTW jeans I already had & compare that to the pattern. That worked well too.


-- Edited on 12/30/10 6:18 PM --

------
Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Janome DC2101, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

sewpatty
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sewpatty  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/10 8:53 PM

Thank you all for your input.

I guess it is much better to be safe than sorry when putting the time and effort into jeans. I just made a muslin for Jalie 968 (loose-fitting non-stretch jeans) and much to my surprise they are almost a perfect fit right out of the pattern envelope. That has never happened with a pattern before. The couple of items I am going to tweak are not absolutely necessary. I can't wait to sew these up though I am still being a bit cautious and allowing for some fittings before I complete all the fancy top-stitching.

Thank you.

Patty

------
Machines:
Juki TL98Q Lockstitch
Juki Exceed F-600
Janome Coverpro 1000cpx Coverhem
White Superlock 1900 Serger
Juki 644D Serger
Featherweight 221K

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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In reply to sewpatty


Date: 12/30/10 9:40 PM

Quote:
I just made a muslin for Jalie 968 (loose-fitting non-stretch jeans) and much to my surprise they are almost a perfect fit right out of the pattern envelope.


I've been tempted by this pattern. Am I being too nosey if I ask you what type of body shape you have? I'm wondering if this would be a pattern that would work for my less-than-curvy self.

Are they styled to be as loose-fitting as the envelope shows if you make the recommended size?

I'm loving the Jalie patterns.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

sewpatty
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sewpatty  Friend of PR
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 12/31/10 6:31 AM

Hi Barb,

No you aren't being too nosy. I appreciate the inquiry. Overall, I have a decent shape that is slightly more athletic than hourglass 36-28.5-36-ish.

I made size 'V.' My measurements are almost that as the pattern states, however, that hip measurement (38') is my sitting hip, which I generally use for pants. Since it is a mid-rise jean the 'waist' is lower than standard waist measure. (Of note: on the Jalie website, they state that this used to be the 'low-rise' jean but has now been classified as mid-rise due to the "new" denim standard. LOL)

I inserted a zipper on the muslin to get the truest fit and attached the waistband fully. When I wrote 'almost perfect fit' here is some clarification. If I made them as is, I would be fine and happy but this is what I will likely tweak to make them a bit better.

1) I will add 1-2 inches length (a standard adjustment for me).
2) They sit a bit higher on me than I believe the pattern intends. I will shorten pattern 1/2-3/4 inch (crotch depth measurement).
3) If I do #2 then I will widen the top/waist a smidge - literally need about 1/2 inch or so. I prefer a looser-fitting waist so others might be happy as is.

My first pair will be from cotton 'cargo-type' pant fabric.

I hope this helps Barb. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Patty

------
Machines:
Juki TL98Q Lockstitch
Juki Exceed F-600
Janome Coverpro 1000cpx Coverhem
White Superlock 1900 Serger
Juki 644D Serger
Featherweight 221K

Karla Kizer
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Karla Kizer  Friend of PR
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FL USA
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Date: 12/31/10 8:18 AM

Another suggestion: cut your muslin - and each pair of pants after it - with wider seam allowances in the waist, hip and thigh so that you can customize the fit for each fabric. I leave the front crotch seams alone once I think I have them right, but cut generously everywhere else.

------
Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig. -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



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