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Forum > Beginner's Forum > coat hemming question ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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coat hemming question
how high?
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 1/9/11 6:36 AM

I've read the instructions several times but I'm still confused. Can anyone help work out what this means please:

Turn lower edge of front facing (ok, I get this bit, it means the lining facing) to outside along seam. Stitch across facing 1-1/2 inches/3.8cm above the raw edge. Trim as shown.

So I'm to trim the inside facing.

Don't understand next bit properly:

turn facing (I assume shell facing) to inside, turning up the hem (but by how much??), keeping lining free. Baste close to fold. Trim hem to an even width (it's a very circular hem, so how do I do this?). Trim hem to an even width (again, how?).

The next bit about shrinking out fullness I get but it's just the bit in the middle.

It says to turn up the lining by 2 inches (5cm).

One piece of extra info, I would like to keep the hem as short as possible so the coat hem is nearer to my knee then mid thigh. It's made with wool tweed, and I have interfaced the hem section to give it some more body.

I have also bought some bias tape so once I have shrunk the excess hem I can sew that on and catch stitch.

Thank you for any advice!

ITAdmin
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Date: 1/9/11 7:17 AM

Your pattern probably has a suggested width for the hem printed on it. Look at the bottom edge of the coat pattern pieces. You should see something like "Hem 1-5/8 inches" somewhere on there. You might take off more on the length, depending on how long it is on you and/or how short you want it. The best way to shorten is to use the lengthen/shorten lines marked on the pattern before you cut out and sew. If you've already done all that, you'll probably have to just cut some off the bottom.

If you do shorten the coat, remember to shorten the lining by the same amout. Otherwise, the two lengths won't be right in relation to each other.

On a circular hem, there will often be excess fabric when you fold up the hem. "Shrinking in fullness" refers to using heat to shrink that fabric and cut down on the excess. This is another reason for not making the hem too wide, because the wider it is , the more excess there's likely to be.

rmusic1
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Date: 1/9/11 7:25 AM

right, I'm off to look at my pattern pieces. Thank you so much, I would not have thought to look there (in fact I'm feeling a little silly now!).

I'm afraid lengthening the coat when cutting was not an option. I already had 10cm shorter fabric than the pattern called for and really had to squeeze everything in when laying out the pieces.

My own fault, as I bought the fabric before the pattern.

I think I might do a half inch shorter hem than the pattern calls for (both lining and shell). Do you think this could work? Thanks.

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In reply to rmusic1


Date: 1/9/11 7:41 AM

It should be OK. Do you have a link to the pattern or just the number so we can see what it looks like? I made a coat last year with a very full skirt, and used about a 1-1/4 inch hem. One of the main things to keep in mind is that the coat and lining pieces will be made to fit together properly. You have to keep the length ratios the same so your lining won't won't be too short or too long in relation to the coat.

rmusic1
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Date: 1/9/11 7:48 AM

I'm making Vogue 8346 (version B). I've got a work in progress review which nicely illustrates some of the "challenges" I have encountered so far. Mostly my own fault (still learning to understand fitting changes from bust to hips).

Thanks for your advice.

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In reply to rmusic1


Date: 1/9/11 8:41 AM

Oh yeah,cute coat. I'd try to stay in the 1 to 1-1/2 inch range for the hem. Just my personal preference for that style. Good luck with finishing it.

By the way, when you turn back, stitch, and trim the facing, be careful that the bottom of the finished facing and the hem will match up in length.

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