SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > Uneven Shoulders ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Uneven Shoulders
Move entire seamline?
JennaF
star
JennaF
Advanced Beginner
WA USA
Member since 5/10/10
Posts: 458
Send Message

      



Date: 1/18/11 4:20 PM

I have uneven & sloping shoulders (you can see my body graph here) and I'm working on a Princess seamed blouse. I'm primarily concerned about the uneven shoulders. When I tissue fit the blouse (pictures here) the hem is noticeably lower on my low side.

FFRP says to sew the shoulder & underarm deeper on the low side. But from the illustration (on page 161) it looks like the seam-line change tapers to nothing at the neck, which is the same alteration as the sloping shoulders alteration.

So, to clarify (I sure do get wordy sometimes) do I move the entire shoulder seam or do I taper the change to nothing at the neck?

------
http://www.seamstressintraining.blogspot.com

JanaL
star
JanaL
Intermediate
UT USA
Member since 10/8/08
Posts: 28
Send Message

      



Date: 1/18/11 5:15 PM

If your high shoulder is still sloping relative to the pattern you will need to make a sloping shoulder adjustment for that shoulder. As you mentioned, the adjustment is a lowering of the shoulder point on the shoulder seam tapering to zero at the neck. The same amount is lowered at the underarm point at both front and back, otherwise your sleeve won't fit your pattern anymore.

For the lower shoulder, you will need to make the same adjustment, just more of it. The add'l adjustment will be the difference between your shoulders.

You don't want to move the entire shoulder seam--that will mess up that balance of your entire garment.

Hope that helps.

lca
star
lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CO USA
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 614
Send Message

      



Date: 1/19/11 4:14 PM

Normally you would keep the point at the neck where the pattern intends it and slope to the shoulder point as previously mentioned. Try this first. However, it seems as though your neck/shoulder points are uneven too. I have this problem also. Sometimes I do have to take it in at the neck edge on one side and this means adjusting a collar also. For this reason, I avoid a lot of patterns with collars. You could also add a shoulder pad to one side. Personally I'm not a shoulder pad person.

JennaF
star
JennaF
Advanced Beginner
WA USA
Member since 5/10/10
Posts: 458
Send Message

      



In reply to lca


Date: 1/19/11 4:26 PM

Quote: lca
Personally I'm not a shoulder pad person.

Me, neither!! I was surprised at how much FFRP used them...but I guess shoulder pads were "in" then, too.Interesting point about my uneven neck points! I'm going to keep that in mind!

------
http://www.seamstressintraining.blogspot.com

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8213
Send Message

      



In reply to JennaF


Date: 1/19/11 4:41 PM

I have uneven shoulders due to an accident and it can be a trial. I tend to ignore it in knits, but in any kind of woven there are some things that I do. Kenneth King in one of his articles says as you already know that you have to sew the under arm lower. He says to do it on both sides, cut for the high side and adjust the lower side. With a jacket or coat I make and use a thicker shoulder pad. On blouses you need to make a decision about how you want to handle it. Of course, you can always use a small pad these days. You'll need to sew that side lower, but you can distract the eye by adding details that add visual height to that side. I don't bother. It's lower and that's life. I like to sew it lower so that I don't have diagonal wrinkles that point to it and make it obvious.
To clarify your original question, yes, you need to taper it to nothing at the neckline and yes it is really just like a sloping shoulder alteration. You just don't sew the higher side lower. I do it when I am sewing it or you have to cut two different sides. Of course you can do that if you want to.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Uneven Shoulders

Merchants on PR

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Reconstructing History
Web site

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

Gwyn Hug


Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!

Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns


Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Altering Pants
Altering Pants

Register

Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

Register

McCall's 5591

photo
by: sunnysewin...

Review
Christine Jonson Inset Jacket

Christine Jonson Inset Jacket

Buy Now
Bluegingerdoll The Peggy Skirt Pattern

Bluegingerdoll The Peggy Skirt Pattern

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.