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Altering a Suitability Jacket Pattern
Narrow Back Fit
Idosew
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Idosew
Intermediate
New York USA
Member since 2/6/07
Posts: 14
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Date: 1/23/11 4:57 PM

My 13 yo DD started competing in horseback riding shows last summer. She borrowed a jacket from the 'barn' where she gets lessons and it fist her well. For her birthday I purchased a Suitability 5004, Hunt Coat Pattern, sizing for women and children included. Her measurements (32 3/4" Bust, 25" waist, 34" hip) make her a perfect Women's size 10 (except her back neck-waist length is shorter). I have cut out a muslin and am comparing it to the borrowed jacket. The similarities are striking, except that the back of the one I am making is approximately 1" greater. All this leads up to the question of how do I make the jacket narrower through the back without altering the neckline/collar area, while taking into account that the center back seam is shaped (ie not parallel to the grainline).
For example:

Suitability muslin:

From Back Side Seam to CB @ armseye 7 5/8
From Side Seam to CB @ Vent top 8 1/8
Shoulder seam 5 1/4
Side Seam to CB @ armseye 9 1/2

RTW Jacket:

From Back Side Seam to CB @ armseye 7 3/8
From Side Seam to CM @ Vent top 7 4/8
Shoulder Seam 5 1/8
Side Seam to CB @ armseye 9

(although maybe it is more of a side back issue?)

As you can see, the muslin is turning out to be 1/2 wider at the top of the back side seams and over 1" wider at the vent. I'd really like to have this fit her like the RTW since it looks so nice on her.
Thanks for any suggestions...here is a link to the pattern:
http://www.suitability.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5004

Wino
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Wino
Intermediate
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 9/24/06
Posts: 439
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In reply to Idosew


Date: 1/23/11 5:07 PM

Someone please correct me if this is totally wrong. I draw a line under the armhole (~ 1/2 inch) then another perpendicular from the shoulder, isolating the armhole. I cut along these lines and move the entire armhole in by a quarter inch (for myself). Then you can redraw the shoulder line and from the armhole to the waist. Super easy and works for me. Good luck with your jacket.

------
wino

Nancy K
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Nancy K
Advanced
New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8272
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In reply to Wino


Date: 1/23/11 6:57 PM

Nope that's the way Sandra Betzina does it and it works.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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