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Interfacing the front of a jacket
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 1/24/11 1:56 PM

I'm working on Simplicity 2288 view C. I've come to the part where it's time to interface the front of the jacket. In the past, most of my patterns have called for interfacing only the facings. This pattern asks you to interface the actual front piece of the jacket. I'm worried that the interfacing will bubble and pucker, as "iron on" can do. It's not a problem when I fuse it to the facings, but I'm worried it will mess up the front of the jacket if I fuse it directly to the wrong side. I'm making this jacket out of a very loose type of linen. Don't know the actual material content, it's been in my closet stash for years. Thanks for any insight on this interfacing stuff

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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/24/11 3:04 PM

Do a sample. It's not unusual to interface a complete jacket front on a tailored type jacket. I didn't look at the pattern, so I don't know what it looks like, but my advice would be the same. Do a sample. Try different interfacings. Use a good one.

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Nancy K
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Date: 1/24/11 8:44 PM

Use high quality interfacing and follow the directions. You need to press wrong and right side of fabric.

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tgm and Kittys
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Date: 1/25/11 1:29 AM

My friend showed me in her sewing class they said to take a slightly damp white cloth & gently wipe the interfacing before ironing to the fabric...tried it less wrinkling & better sticking & stitching...this is fusible interfacing we are using. .... I just got some Nancy K recommended from Fashion Supply it is for jackets & is very nice...it even comes in a dark grey which is what I bought. ...professional weight fusible interfacing. I have not done the jacket yet...as soon as the sm kids are up & at em again (& me too ...) I hope to tackle the jacket.

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JTink
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Date: 1/25/11 9:02 AM

Thank you all for your suggestions. I guess my main confusion is, why interface the (unlined)jacked front, instead of adhering the interfacing to the front facing? I can see this, if it were a heavier, more structured/tailored garment. But this garment is meant to be of a softer nature. I wouldn't know the difference between "good" interfacing and what I use. I like a very thin flexible interfacing and get the $1.99 stuff when it goes on sale. If I need a heavier weight, I use mulitple layers. Is "good" another word for "expensive"?

EleanorSews
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Date: 1/25/11 9:05 AM

SImplicity 2288

Here's the link to your jacket. Some good advice already posted.

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JTink
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In reply to EleanorSews


Date: 1/25/11 9:13 AM

Thank you Eleanor, I haven't learned how to do those links yet

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Date: 1/25/11 9:50 AM

Sometimes "good" means more expensive, but I think Nancy said it best when she said "high quality." Interfacing is used for shaping and stability. The kind you use depends on your fashion fabric.

I finally looked at your pattern (Thanks for the link, Eleanor. I was just lazy.) I didn't realize it wasn't a lined jacket. If you just line the facing, the jacket front (depending on the fabric you use), could droop (?), sag, look sloppy. I don't know the correct word. Is it recommended to interface the entire front jacket, or just the part that is covered by the facing? I think (and I could be wrong) that it IS unusual to interface the entire front of an unlined jacket.

I would definitely interface the front - how much of the front depends upon your fabric. Maybe you could use a sew-in organza if you are not going to line the jacket. At least it wouldn't bubble or pucker.

Hopefully Nancy will come back and reply. She's really good (high quality ) at this.

What kind of fabric are you using?

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Doris W. in TN
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Date: 1/29/11 11:49 AM

Quote: JTink
I guess my main confusion is, why interface the (unlined)jacked front, instead of adhering the interfacing to the front facing?

The jacket will hang better if you interface the front. You mentioned the fabric is a "very loose type of linen" so you may want to consider interfacing the whole thing. With linen, this will reduce wrinkling. The loosely woven fabrics often need to be underlined for support (to reduce bagginess & drooping as the garment is worn) and fully fusing the fashion fabric is a popular technique.

Wendy J
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Date: 1/29/11 2:40 PM

I always use the interfacing from Peggy Sagers at Silhouette patterns. It is a very lightweight fusi knit type and I iron it to most of my skirt or jacket fabrics for some stability and shape. It's very lightweight and I like the way my fabrics drape after using. I always test it first on a sample of fabric. For a jacket, I definitely would use something. It will hang better.

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