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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Tight just below armpits : what is this ? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Tight just below armpits : what is this ?
RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 1/25/11 12:06 PM

I've finished the Burda tuxedo blouse from 09/2010 ( This one ), and came across a new-to-me fitting problem.

It's said to be roomy & loose-fitting on the reviews, and looks like it on the magazine, so I used my usual 38 size and happily sewed on without trying it during the process (bad!).

It was difficult to put it on, I felt as though my shoulders were on the verge of tearing the blouse apart ! And, when I finally put it on, I was very tight just below the armpits and above the bustline, but otherwise the shoulders were OK, slightly dropped, and so is the bustline itself.
Then I moved my arm slightly and, of course, the top of the front slit popped open (admittedly, my fabric is loosely woven) ! 2 inches of the slit broke open - I was able to secure it without damage, and now it feels OK - not extra-roomy, but comfortable. If I try to close it, I feel as though I'm wearing a straight jacket. Good thing I planned to wear this blouse with a cami !

I think I have
- broad/square/pointy shoulders,
- wide neck base ("muscular neck", as FFRP says),
- wide ribcage.
Can one of of these issues give fit problems just under the armpits ?
I've noticed that the armhole's bottom is low (by design, I think, it's supposed to be slouchy), can it be another reason ?
Usually I'm happy with Burda size 38, but then I've never tried a set-in sleeve pattern from them before.

I'll try to post pictures, but the blouse is white and sheer, and my camera didn't handle it very well - I don't think you'll be able to see much details.

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guillorypr
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guillorypr
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Date: 1/25/11 12:23 PM

Hmmmmm, have you made blouses before?

You say this is new to you. Let's see.

Broad shoulders/upper back would give you binding in the armsyce region. This isn't an adjustment I have to make, so I wold defer to FFRP (which I also use and love!), but you're probably need to slash across the upper back. Whether this is a slash across the entire back section of the pattern tissue or a small, dart-like slash only in the upper back, I'm not sure. How does the upper back look? Are there wrinkles? If not, maybe the armscye is just too tight and you could try scooping more room out the back and adjusting your sleeve piece as well.

I hope this helps and I can't wait to see what others suggest!

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 1/25/11 12:32 PM

I have made blouses before, but sleeveless or with cut-on sleeves as I usually don't like the look of regular set-in sleeves on me.

The upper back don't feel tight - if I slash and spread, I would have extra fabric there ? But then, it's not closed on top, so the neckline/collar is wide open and basically sits wherever it wants. The back neckline could be too tight (plus I really have big trapeze muscles, can't wear turtlenecks), I wouldn't notice it !

The sleeves are very roomy and the armscye too, much wider than you'd find a well-fitted regular button-down. That's what is confusing to me ... Everything looks roomy or, at least, comfortably loose-fitting, yet it isn't !

-- Edited on 1/25/11 12:36 PM --

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MNBarb
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Date: 1/25/11 1:12 PM

Do you think the armscye is too low? I had this problem with a blouse and couldn't raise my arms without lots of pulling at the bustline. It would be unusual for a Burda pattern.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/25/11 1:32 PM

I generally always have to add a1/2 inch to both front and back peices and top part of every sleeve or it is to tight under my arms. A full inch is usually too much.

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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Date: 1/25/11 3:28 PM

So, here is the best picture I was able to take



You can see the sleeve cap sits at the edge of the shoulder and that it "pulls" above bust (the "V" of the neck). Otherwise it's wide enough (BTW, I'm A-cup - but wide ribcage so have to do an FBA sometimes - my underbust is only slightly smaller than my bust measurement)
The tip of the V sits slightly above the bra strap between cups.

I swear my shoulders aren't that square in reality :), but it's close.

And the armscye sits slightly above the level of the bib's curve. It's definitively low, plenty of body space here.

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RoseFromThule
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In reply to allycovey


Date: 1/25/11 3:30 PM

You add 1/2 inch in height ? I do that on japanese patterns, but never on Burda. Here, the armscy is wide enough ...

Or do you add in width ?

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lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/25/11 3:33 PM

Could you need a FBA? It looks tight across the chest and bust.

RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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In reply to allycovey


Date: 1/25/11 3:34 PM

It's low. But the two previous reviewers didn't mention that, so I guess that it's not "too" low per se.
But I had the occasion to check that, indeed, a higher armhole is better for arm movement.

OTOH, on the magazine :


... you can see pulling at the top of the sleeve.

Here is the garment shot :

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RoseFromThule
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RoseFromThule
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In reply to lca


Date: 1/25/11 3:40 PM

Yes, I need a small FBA in tight garments, equivalent to C cup. For Burda, however, I never needed one - mostly because I sew loose-fitting garment.
This isn't a reason why I shouldn't need one here, thoughWhile wearing it, I feel no tightness across the widest part of the bust, but maybe I was mistaken.

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Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

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