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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Neckline doesn't lie flat... ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Neckline doesn't lie flat...
Suggestions much appreciated!
JennaF
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JennaF
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WA USA
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Date: 1/30/11 7:31 PM

I just finished my Pendrell Muslin & the neckline doesn't lie flat. It doesn't seem that any of the other seamstresses had this problem, so it must be me I did enlarge the neckline & binding, but I wasn't sure if the notches remained accurate so I'm wondering if I didn't stretch the binding evenly around the neckline?

photo
-- Edited on 1/30/11 7:32 PM --

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Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to JennaF


Date: 1/30/11 7:36 PM

Your binding should be 1" to 2" smaller than the neckline, in order for the neckline to lie flat. It's possible you stretched the neckline too much.

When stitching binding, you sew it into a circle, then divide it into quarters, using pins. Then you divide the neckline into quarters, using pins. You match the pins, slightly stretch the binding and ease the neckline between pins. Don't tug on the neckline, or else you'll get what you have now.

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JennaF
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 1/30/11 9:24 PM

Thank you! Is the damage done? Could I take a seam ripper to it & restitch? This was a muslin but it turned out to be quite wearable, aside from the neckline, that is. :)

Also, I enlarged the neckline & the binding by the same amount, when I re-do should I enlarge the binding by only a fraction of the neckline, since the neckline should be larger?

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to JennaF


Date: 1/31/11 8:56 AM

I would give it a try. It's such pretty material. As Miss Fairchild said, just cut the binding a little smaller than your neck line and pin it in fourths.

Wino
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Wino
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In reply to JennaF


Date: 1/31/11 9:16 PM

It looks like you have quite a bit of extra fabric on the front of the garment. Are you sure this is the correct size?

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JennaF
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JennaF
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Date: 1/31/11 11:53 PM

Well, I ripped out the binding & re-stithced & it still sticks up. It isn't as bad, but the problem is still there. I measured the neckline & binding & they are almost the same length as the pattern is drafted.

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petro
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Date: 2/1/11 2:54 AM

To salvage this now I would probably take the binding off carefully, or even cut it off so the neckline was a little lower and wider, after stay stitching just below the existing binding line. Then see if there was excess fabric by trying it on unfinished. If so, some things to try are taking out the excess at the shoulder seam, making some very small darts, shrinking it back by gathering it and applying steam ( if the fabric will take this treatment). Once I'd got the neck to sit right unfinished, I'd lay a piece of pattern paper over first the front, then the back, lining a straight edge up to the CF/CB and draw the new neck curve, and shoulder seam. Then measure down from this on the paper about two inches, add seam allowances, so I had a facing pattern. In short, I'd forget the binding which is being so disobliging and face it back, probably using some lightweight fusible interfacing after testing this on a spare bit. Nice fabric!

looking at the photo I think you could have that front panel a bit narrower. That might be something to think about when you remake the pattern.
-- Edited on 2/1/11 2:56 AM --

French.Seam
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French.Seam
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Subject: Neckline doesnt lie flat... Date: 6/21/11 2:35 PM

Thank you for raising this issue (although it was a while ago, it has answered my question about a sticky-out neckline). MUST MAKE BINDING SMALLER :)

loti
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In reply to JennaF


Date: 6/21/11 2:54 PM

What pattern is this?
Did you clip the seam allowance? It looks to be that the fabric is pulling up because the seam allowance isn't clipped. Whenever you have a curved seam you need either clip, or clip small "v"'s to get the fabric to lie flat.

Threads article

If you scroll down to No.4 it shows the clipping illustration, it not only reduces bulk but it helps the fabric lie flat.

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lca
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Subject: Neckline doesnt lie flat... Date: 6/21/11 3:43 PM

This does not look like a knit, so here is what I do. Buy some fabric with a fair amount of stretch in it and use it single layer for the binding. Stretch it as you sew it to the neck and it will ease in the neckline. Turn the binding to the back and top stitch from the top side. I do this for armholes also when they gap.

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