Monica Ann
 Advanced Beginner OH USA Member since 10/27/08 Posts: 25 |
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Date: 2/10/11 9:21 AM I cannot make a buttonhole in my polar fleece jacket without the foot getting caught up in the pile. I have a Bernina 630 and when I try to use the auto buttonhole foot, it makes the down side alright, but cannot seem to reverse itself in the pile and ends up creating a knot at the end of the first line.
Any suggestions? |
EveS
  
 Intermediate MI USA Member since 11/26/06 Posts: 2700 |
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In reply to Monica Ann
Date: 2/10/11 9:48 AM Auto buttonholers often don't do well with very thick fabrics. Whatever you do, don't FORCE it to happen. Ask me how I know. 
You may have to do a manual buttonhole, which really isn't difficult at all. Do a tight zigzag stitch on either side of your hole marking and finish with a wide bar tack (zig zag set at 0 stitch length) on either end of the hole. Voila!
Do practice a few times to get a feel for it and make sure you leave enough room to snip your buttonhole open, but it really can be quicker than fussing with an uncooperative auto foot.
Good luck!
Eve ------ People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb |
Loreen
 Advanced RI USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 31 |
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In reply to Monica Ann
Date: 2/10/11 10:20 AM Fleece doesn't fray so you could just sew a rectangular box and slice it open. You can also cover the fabric with a water soluble stabilizer used in embroidery to help it feed better with the buttonhole foot. Tear the extra away and spritz any remaining with water. |
Elona
 Advanced CA USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 7452 |
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In reply to Monica Ann
Date: 2/10/11 12:04 PM Standard buttonholes and fleece are generally a bad mix. There are work-arounds involving stabilizers, but there are many clever alternatives to ordinary 'buttonholes'. Check out this simple one from the former Malden Mills. -- Edited on 2/10/11 12:05 PM -- |
Doris W. in TN
 Intermediate TN USA Member since 2/9/04 Posts: 6801 |
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In reply to Monica Ann
Date: 2/10/11 12:52 PM Quote: Monica Ann .....when I try to use the auto buttonhole foot, it makes the down side alright, but cannot seem to reverse itself in the pile and ends up creating a knot at the end of the first line. Chances are the nap and/or bulk of the fleece is the problem. Do you have any Solvy or equivalent water-soluble topper (such as used for machine embroidery)? Try putting a layer both on top and under the project, but definitely test this first, on scrap. You should also have a #3 manual buttonhole foot. You may have to go that route. The #3A is great, but not for all jobs. That's why Bernina still has the #3 foot and it comes as a standard included foot, with your model machine. |
Monica Ann
 Advanced Beginner OH USA Member since 10/27/08 Posts: 25 |
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In reply to Monica Ann
Date: 2/10/11 1:29 PM Wow - thanks everyone. I'm going to try the zig zag/bar tack method on some scraps this evening. When I'm done, I'll post the jacket in a review. |
Monica Ann
 Advanced Beginner OH USA Member since 10/27/08 Posts: 25 |
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Subject: I finished Date: 2/17/11 11:48 AM I finished the project - thanks to your help.
http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/60016 |
dresscode
 Advanced FL USA Member since 7/28/04 Posts: 2477 |
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Date: 2/17/11 4:25 PM Bernina makes a buttonhole "compensation" foot for thick (and any) fabrics. They seem to be the best kept secret Bernina holds. They aid in evening out the bulk from the sewn edge. Might help with your fleece.
Personally, I'd reinforce with interfacing and then sew a hand-stitched buttonhole using a wooly nylon or wool yarn as the "thread". Just make several practice buttonhole samples first to get the rhythm. |