Patty the Snug Bug
 
Advanced
USA
Member since 2/25/10
Posts: 13 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 2/16/11 1:49 PM OK folks! I could use some help! I'm working on getting a good fit on trousers. I'm having a terrible problem with the back - tons of folds. I'm mainly using Pants for Real People as a guide, and I'm not sure which example this is closest too! Here's a shot of the problem...
You can see all that extra fabric in the back! I've tried a variety of things with the side and inseam and none helped that much. I finally decided to try the fix for the baggies... tug up the pants 'till the folds go away, new waistband and deeper crotch curve in the back (my crotch curve looks like the L-shape that's in some of the hot patterns styles now.) I think that helped the folds a bit, but they're still there, the backside is much less comfy (and I don't like the way it looks) and it totally threw off the fit at the front crotch and sides in a bad way. Here's the after shot.
Any thoughts? My head is aching from internet searches that provide terrible results (saggy butts, do NOT search that!!)
-- Edited on 2/16/11 2:00 PM -- |
ValerieJ
Advanced Beginner
PA USA
Member since 6/14/06
Posts: 537 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 2/16/11 2:18 PM I don't think the problem is too much fabric between the waist and the bottom of your butt, it's from the bottom of your butt down. I can imagine that pulling up the waist would make the pants less comfortable and still not resolve the problem.
I'm wondering if Debbie Cook's tutorial on fish-eye darts to remove excess fabric would help? |
mrsbewley
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 8/14/08
Posts: 446 |
Login to reply to this post
In reply to Patty the Snug Bug
Date: 2/16/11 2:56 PM I am by no means a fit expert, but looking at your first photo, it appears like you need additional length at the inseam, below the crotch. Notice that the wrinkles all are pointing to basically the same area of the inseam. (Also, it seems like the hems are angling up at the inseam, though the photo may be a bit misleading there.)
Have you tried opening the inseam at that point, just to see if that helps the wrinkles go away? It looks to me like extra length would do the trick, but extra width might work too.
HTH!
Liz
-- Edited on 2/16/11 2:56 PM -- |
Candi Cook
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 12/28/02
Posts: 48 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 2/16/11 6:53 PM I think you need to give yourself some more space for your body by taking a deeper seam in center back. I know this seems counter intuitive but by taking a deeper seam you give more room for you seat in the pants.
start with 1/2" taking it almost to the inseam point blending into the original seam 2"-3" from crotch point. You may have to release the dart closest to center back to give you the extra fabric but I'm not so sure you need that dart anyway. If your not sure just pin it to see if you see any improvement. Often times the suggested correction for this fitting problem is to extend the back crotch point but this adds extra fullness in the legs under the seat and you appear to have plenty of room in that area. You will not see the total effect of this alteration until the seam is trimmed and clipped (particularly in the curved area of the seam) but it will give you a general idea if the alteration helps. |
Patty the Snug Bug
Advanced
USA
Member since 2/25/10
Posts: 13 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 2/16/11 7:28 PM Yay! Some responses... but now I feel more lost!
Valerie - I was thinking that the fish eye might be the thing as well... except that the fish eye dart is actually a fix for FLAT butts - mine is NOT flat - it's more that it's so rounded there's so much fabric back there underneath! I'd love any more input from anyone who's done the fish eye!
Liz - I get where you're coming from - but if I add length, won't I just have longer trousers, still pointing upwards? Sometimes my folds look like frowns, which, according to the reference stuff I'm looking at means that the back inseam should be taken in, but that hasn't been too effective, yet! And if I just drop the inseam I'm afraid I'll be uncomfortable... I hate it when the crotch of my trousers is too low! It's almost like it's the center back of my legs that's too long - see how the folds are sort of U/V shaped??
Candi - I'm not sure if I'm following your suggestion completely - do you mean to scoop out towards the bottom, or to tighten up towards the waistband? This pattern was too big for me and I had to take in the back quite a bit. Initially, I just pinched the fabric right in the CB - which made the folds TERRIBLE - I distributed the extra width between the 4 darts. As for scooping - I've scooped out the back QUITE a bit from the pattern - here's a pic with some notes.
The dark brown line is the original stitch line (I stitched on the muslin fabric). Red is where I first sewed it, suspecting I'd need a bit extra room. Blue is the SECOND stitching line (and is the one in the first photo above) Green is the third, much deeper line that I stitched as part of my attempt to fix the folds by tugging up (and is the stitching line in the second photo above.) I liked the look and feel of the blue line, the green, not so much. Am I sewing in the wrong spot?
Also - I'm not sure how adjusting the back crotch curve would ease the wrinkles on the back of my legs??
Grrrrr.... I appreciate the feedback! Sorry I'm so dense about it! |
Sew4Fun
Advanced
AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4837 |
Login to reply to this post
In reply to Patty the Snug Bug
Date: 2/16/11 7:52 PM I'll give this a shot.
What I see is the back leg isn't hanging straight. This is caused by:
a) the side seams needing more length at the waist;
b) your pants are pulling at the upper, inner thigh, meaning you need more fabric here; and
c) at the same time there is excess fabric on the outside of your legs.
You also have a small wedgie but for the moment I'll concentrate on the legs.
Step 1 is to add length to the side seams at the waist. On your pants simply tug down on the side seams.
Step 2 is to "shift the leg" more towards the middle of your body. This will give your inner thighs more fabric and at the same time remove fabric from your outer thighs where you don't need it.
To shift the leg, let out the inseams on the back leg only. Let them out the same amount from the hem all the way up to within two inches of the crotch point, tapering to nothing by the crotch point. Now take in the back side seam the exact same amount.
Once you have done this you can reassess the fit. You may find you need to let out the back crotch point at the inseam a little to help with the wedgie. HTH ------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/ |
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 7578
|
Login to reply to this post
In reply to Sew4Fun
Date: 2/16/11 8:36 PM I see the same things. The cb hem is definitely longer than the outer or inner seams.
the other thing to look at is if your waist is in the correct position and the crotch depth is where you want it.
-- Edited on 2/16/11 8:37 PM -- ------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com |
Patty the Snug Bug
Advanced
USA
Member since 2/25/10
Posts: 13 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 2/16/11 8:49 PM OK! I'm off to re-center my legs! We'll see how that goes! |
HeyJane
Intermediate
PA USA
Member since 5/18/05
Posts: 214 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 2/16/11 10:13 PM *Not* a pants expert, I just dabble...but I noticed the other day that someone had posted info about the free webcasts by Peggy Sagers, if you are interested in viewing them.
Go to Siilhouette Patterns under "Upcoming Events" on the right hand side, and the webcasts are listed.
Dec. 27 was one on Ultimate Pants Fitting, and she'll be doing Pants Fitting 2 on Feb. 21. I found it fascinating and I was really shocked when she said to never, ever scoop! She has a different opinion about that.
HTH I can't wait to watch the Part 2 on Monday! It was enormously helpful to me.
Sorry, I got that link spelled wrong, it's Silhouette Patterns.
|
Candi Cook
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 12/28/02
Posts: 48 |
Login to reply to this post
Date: 2/17/11 2:46 AM Patty,
I'm sorry my post was so confusing. What I think you need is to create more body space. You accomplish that by taking a deeper seam allowance (start with 1/2") starting at center back at the waist and stitch parallel to the original seam line and the gradually taper into to the blue line if that is the stitching line you prefer. You will then add the same amount (1/2") to the side seam parallel with that stitching line and then tapering to the original seam line at the thigh. This actually accomplishes something similar to what Sew 4 Fun suggested but it shifts the upper pattern ratther than the leg. If you turn your pant inside out and slip one leg inside the other so you can see the full crotch shape you will see how taking a deeper seam gives you more space for your body. |
|Login|Help]
Printable Version
