FionaWinOz
Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/18/10 Posts: 33 |
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Date: 2/19/11 0:37 AM Hello to all the helpful fitting gurus,
I have recently returned to sewing and am having some problems with this blouse.
This is an almost wearable muslin - number three of this style!
Its New Look 6407. Thanks to the FFRP book, I did a FBA - twice, as had to make it bigger (added about 2 inches both sides). The coverage is great, no pulling or gaposis. I know that I have to add about 1/4 inch to the hip area (on the next version).
My questions are:
1) what is best for the darts? on one side I have tacked one large dart and on the other a large and small dart.
2) do the shoulders look OK? - though I have been working on this muslin so long, I have probably stopped being objective.

blouse front views
Any pointers or help would be gratefully received, before I start my UFO pile
Fiona
Editted to correct spelling
close up of blouse front
-- Edited on 2/20/11 1:48 AM --  -- Edited on 2/20/11 1:57 AM -- ------ Melbourne, Australia |
Patty the Snug Bug
 
 Advanced USA Member since 2/25/10 Posts: 13 |
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Date: 2/19/11 0:40 AM hhmmmmm - i like the dart on my right (your left) and the shoulder on the other side! |
goosegreen
 
 Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 1/9/05 Posts: 1791 |
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Date: 2/19/11 1:54 AM It's a bit hard to see Fiona as the clickable link piccy is tiny! ------ Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/ |
julie w
Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 12/25/06 Posts: 672 |
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Date: 2/19/11 3:25 AM Hi Fiona, its a little bit hatd to tell from the photo, but personally I prefer to split a large dart into two smaller ones.
HTH Julie ------ Julie, Perth, WA |
KiwiWendy
 
Advanced AUSTRALIA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 2263 |
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Date: 2/19/11 3:37 AM ThAt's about the size of the FBA I need, and I usually split the vertical dart into 2. The closest to CF is 2/3s the amount & the one towards the side seam is 1/3. ------ Sydney, Australia |
FionaWinOz
Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/18/10 Posts: 33 |
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In reply to goosegreen
Date: 2/19/11 10:07 PM Thanks Goose green
The photo looked to be OK when I finally manged to get the link to work
I'll have another go - computers are worse than sewing ------ Melbourne, Australia |
FionaWinOz
Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/18/10 Posts: 33 |
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In reply to KiwiWendy
Date: 2/19/11 10:11 PM Hi KiwiWendy
Splitting the dart 2/3 and 1/3 makes sense, otherwise there is one huge dart.
I think I saw some reference to an S dart, might make it a little more subtle - though with this FBA, subtle is probably not the right word
Thanks
Fiona ------ Melbourne, Australia |
tigergirl
 Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/30/09 Posts: 177 |
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Date: 2/22/11 6:49 AM The side front sits better with the two darts but it looks like your bust dart from the side seam is not pointing up to your bust apex but down to the darts ......... maybe it's just how you were standing (could also be the fact that I'm not wearing my glasses, for all I know, there isn't a bust dart from the side seam). ------ Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/ |
FionaWinOz
Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/18/10 Posts: 33 |
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In reply to tigergirl
Date: 2/22/11 7:15 PM Hi tigergirl,
The bust darts are more french darts, ie sloping up to the bust apex from the waist. Possibly not the best choice of pattern - will rotate darts on 'next' version.
They are definately in the right place, as I had to do a FBA and then lower the whole thing to get it right - muslins one and two.
This is version 3 and splitting the darts as KiwiWendy advised is looking good.
My shape is Petite top, ie narrow shoulders and short waisted against the 'normal' charts. The larger bust sits lower, so there is not much vertical distance between the bust apex and waist.
So short of putting multiple darts and creating a cone shape bust top, I have to hedge a bit. My bust is large enough without making it look as if I am all front. I avoid stretch knits for that very reason ------ Melbourne, Australia |
tigergirl
 Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/30/09 Posts: 177 |
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Date: 2/22/11 10:32 PM Ok, obviously I need to be wearing the glasses ........ ------ Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/ |