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Forum > Fitting Woes > Front darts in blouse ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Front darts in blouse
How do I get these darts to look right?
FionaWinOz
FionaWinOz
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/18/10
Posts: 33
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Date: 2/19/11 0:37 AM

Hello to all the helpful fitting gurus,

I have recently returned to sewing and am having some problems with this blouse.

This is an almost wearable muslin - number three of this style!
Its New Look 6407. Thanks to the FFRP book, I did a FBA - twice, as had to make it bigger (added about 2 inches both sides). The coverage is great, no pulling or gaposis. I know that I have to add about 1/4 inch to the hip area (on the next version).
My questions are:
1) what is best for the darts? on one side I have tacked one large dart and on the other a large and small dart.
2) do the shoulders look OK? - though I have been working on this muslin so long, I have probably stopped being objective.


blouse front views



Any pointers or help would be gratefully received, before I start my UFO pile

Fiona

Editted to correct spelling
close up of blouse front
-- Edited on 2/20/11 1:48 AM --
-- Edited on 2/20/11 1:57 AM --

------
Melbourne, Australia

Patty the Snug Bug
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Date: 2/19/11 0:40 AM

hhmmmmm - i like the dart on my right (your left) and the shoulder on the other side!

goosegreen
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Date: 2/19/11 1:54 AM

It's a bit hard to see Fiona as the clickable link piccy is tiny!

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Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

julie w
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julie w
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Date: 2/19/11 3:25 AM

Hi Fiona, its a little bit hatd to tell from the photo, but personally I prefer to split a large dart into two smaller ones.
HTH Julie

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Julie, Perth, WA

KiwiWendy
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Date: 2/19/11 3:37 AM

ThAt's about the size of the FBA I need, and I usually split the vertical dart into 2. The closest to CF is 2/3s the amount & the one towards the side seam is 1/3.

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Sydney, Australia

FionaWinOz
FionaWinOz
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/18/10
Posts: 33
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In reply to goosegreen


Date: 2/19/11 10:07 PM

Thanks Goose green

The photo looked to be OK when I finally manged to get the link to work
I'll have another go - computers are worse than sewing

------
Melbourne, Australia

FionaWinOz
FionaWinOz
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/18/10
Posts: 33
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In reply to KiwiWendy


Date: 2/19/11 10:11 PM

Hi KiwiWendy

Splitting the dart 2/3 and 1/3 makes sense, otherwise there is one huge dart.
I think I saw some reference to an S dart, might make it a little more subtle - though with this FBA, subtle is probably not the right word
Thanks
Fiona

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Melbourne, Australia

tigergirl
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Date: 2/22/11 6:49 AM

The side front sits better with the two darts but it looks like your bust dart from the side seam is not pointing up to your bust apex but down to the darts ......... maybe it's just how you were standing (could also be the fact that I'm not wearing my glasses, for all I know, there isn't a bust dart from the side seam).

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Brother BM-2600
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FionaWinOz
FionaWinOz
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/18/10
Posts: 33
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In reply to tigergirl


Date: 2/22/11 7:15 PM

Hi tigergirl,

The bust darts are more french darts, ie sloping up to the bust apex from the waist. Possibly not the best choice of pattern - will rotate darts on 'next' version.
They are definately in the right place, as I had to do a FBA and then lower the whole thing to get it right - muslins one and two.

This is version 3 and splitting the darts as KiwiWendy advised is looking good.

My shape is Petite top, ie narrow shoulders and short waisted against the 'normal' charts. The larger bust sits lower, so there is not much vertical distance between the bust apex and waist.
So short of putting multiple darts and creating a cone shape bust top, I have to hedge a bit. My bust is large enough without making it look as if I am all front. I avoid stretch knits for that very reason

------
Melbourne, Australia

tigergirl
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Date: 2/22/11 10:32 PM

Ok, obviously I need to be wearing the glasses ........

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Brother BM-2600
Janome 693
Lumina Overlocker (Serger)
http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/

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