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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting a jacket across large front. ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting a jacket across large front.
snuzal
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snuzal
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Date: 2/26/11 2:51 AM

I am making McCalls 5525 view B (but with long straight sleeves instead of the 3/4) and today I made a muslin
I've got the back fitting comfortably and fine, however, I have a large bust, as well as a large stomach, and it is snug across the front, it fits, but not comfortably and I certainly couldn't wear a bulky top underneath it.

It's unfortunately the largest size, and I'm not quite sure exactly where I could add onto aside from the CB. If I add onto the side seams, then that in turn changes the armhole and I'd have to then make the sleeves wider to fit, yet the sleeves are an ok fit.
If I add onto the front, or where the side front meets the front, then it's going to change where the rounded collar sits.

As you can see, I'm a smidge confused, but I really want to make this so want to figure out a way somehow to get it to fit comfortably (aside from chopping my boobs and stomach off!)
I'm about to check my Sandra Betzina Fast Fit, and see if I can alter it that way some how, but thought someoen else might have these same troublesome areas!

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Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 2/26/11 7:51 AM

First off you don't add to the center back. You don't need room there and your collar would no longer fit. If it's tight across the back you still wouldn't add to that seam.
You need to make a full bust adjustment, or an fba as it is known around here. This is a princess seamed coat, which is easy to add to. Do the fba first, and Fit for Real People is a good place to find out how. The fba will add width to the front so you can take that into account when you figure out how much to add to the side and princesse seams. Never add to cf for fitting only if you are using a larger button than called for. An fba does not add to the underarm.
You also should be fitting this coat with whatever you will be wearing under it. If you want to wear this over a suit jacket you need to fit it with one underneath. If you'll only wear it over a sweater than that's what you need to wear when fitting. This is a double breasted coat so make sure that you have marked the cf on both pieces and that they are visible from the outside. Line these up and pin when fitting.
Make sure that you attach the sleeves when fitting this coat. That's the only way you'll know if the back actually fits properly.

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 2/26/11 9:21 AM

I agree with Nancy. This being a Princess seam, you have a lot of "play" room to add on at the front. The FBA will solve some of your issues, because it can add width and length.
-- Edited on 2/26/11 2:48 PM --

snuzal
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snuzal
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Date: 2/26/11 1:46 PM

Thanks, I'll trace my pattern and do a FBA this afternoon. *gulp* never done one before!
I just did a bit of googling and found a great blog with instructions for a FBA on princess seams.

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Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

sewmaris
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sewmaris  Friend of PR
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 2/26/11 5:20 PM

Don't forget to search patternreview.com for tips and tricks too! I typed "full bust adjustment" into the search box on the upper left, and clicked the little arrow in the filter box below and selected "boards". There are lots of results for full bust adjustment - maybe this one will be helpful too!

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=24897

Good luck!

Maris Olsen
http://sewmaris.com

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Maris Olsen

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snuzal
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snuzal
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Date: 2/26/11 7:58 PM

Well I did a FBA on the front and side front, what a nightmare. LOL.
Now the bust curve is HUGE yet I did it to my measurements. I had the same problem with a bust curve on a dress I made last year, ended up having to totally redraw the curve when I put it on.
So now I'm off to redraw the curve of the dress too. Ugh.
I'm over this jacket, I spent over 2 hours doing the FBA!

What's stupid though is, the left side sits perfectly, the right side has an enormous amount of extra fabric.
*throws hands in air*

------
Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

snuzal
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snuzal
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Date: 2/26/11 9:21 PM

So I decide to get out a princess seamed jacket pattern I'd made previously that fit perfectly.. When I find the Vogue size 22, is about an inch bigger on the pattern piece than the Mccalls size 24 that i'm making, no wonder it fit perfectly. But now I'm coming across all sorts of issues merging. Doesn't help that I've got a doozy headache

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Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

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