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Asymmetrical / Uneven Shoulders
Fitting the Shoulders
FloraNature

FloraNature
United Kingdom
Member since 1/15/04
Posts: 63
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 3/21/11 8:51 AM

Yesterday I had a eureka moment, when I was fitting my bodice sloper.

I was updating the sloper, and had taken measurements from my left side only (as per instructions), and it fitted very well aside from some gaping behind my right shoulder.

I took myself down from the upstairs sewing room (with it's little mirror) to my full length mirror in the bedroom. To my initial horror, the bedhead behind me was making a horizontal line level with my shoulders, and I could clearly see that my right shoulder was dipping farther down than my left shoulder.

I knew that I have forward shoulders, but *uneven* forward shoulders - this was news to me!

I took off the sloper and sewed a quarter inch adjustment into the shoulder seam from my right shoulder point tapering to nothing at the neckline (1/4" front and back = 1/2" in total).

When I tried the sloper on again, it fitted perfectly at the shoulder!

The underarm seam now needed lowering a corresponding 1/4" to compensate for the amount taken up at the shoulders.

I cut out the armscye and lowered the whole thing a 1/4" and redrew the shoulder seam and side seam. This preserved the shape of the sleeve.

This was a fantastic moment, as I was never happy with the fit of my tops!

-- Edited on 3/21/11 8:52 AM --

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Nicky Scholnick | Flora Nature Art

FloraNature

FloraNature
United Kingdom
Member since 1/15/04
Posts: 63
Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 4/17/11 8:33 AM

I re-posted this under: Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting. I hope someone will find it helpful.

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Nicky Scholnick | Flora Nature Art

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
Member since 1/13/10
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Skill: Intermediate
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Date: 4/19/11 0:21 AM

I have the same exact issue, though I've not sewn very many things and so haven't dealt with it (yet). I posted some pictures here last year in which I posed in front of a brick wall, and several people pointed out how the lines of the brick made my uneven shoulders obvious. Now I can see this on all of my clothes, both self-made and RTW -- my necklines always droop on the right side, and there's a gap in the back armhole on sleeveless tops.

So this doesn't make the garment look lopsided?

FloraNature

FloraNature
United Kingdom
Member since 1/15/04
Posts: 63
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<


Date: 4/19/11 6:35 AM

Hi,

This is such an easy and worthwhile adjustment to make if you need to - it doesn't make the garment look any more lopsided than I am, because it is a relatively small adjustment.

I will make this adjustment on close-fitting sleeveless dress and tops, because it prevents that awful gaping behind the back shoulder and gives me a more comfortable armhole at the armpit level.

Try it on a muslin - you may be pleasantly surprised!
-- Edited on 4/19/11 6:36 AM --

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Nicky Scholnick | Flora Nature Art

whirrclunk
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whirrclunk
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/24/08
Posts: 207
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 4/19/11 4:59 PM

I didn't realise that I had uneven shoulders until I started sewing either. I have tried this adjustment once, on a simple dress. It stopped the CF and CB seams from hanging diagonally (yep, I'm that uneven). I thought that it was a success, especially for such a simple adjustment, but I haven't dared do it again. I think that I am trying to persuade myself that I can just stand up straight instead... sigh...

goodworks1
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goodworks1  Friend of PR
Illinois USA
Member since 7/19/03
Posts: 3829
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Date: 4/20/11 11:47 AM

Kathleen Fasanella says that if you are right-handed your right shoulder will be lower (and more forward, I think) and the same for lefties.

She says she can tell which hand a person prefers by looking at their shoulders.

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blog: goodworks1.wordpress.com

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