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Zipper in center back seam of pants
andread
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andread
Intermediate
Arizona USA
Member since 1/30/06
Posts: 2
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Date: 3/21/11 2:23 PM

I just finished making Burda 7657, a pair of wide-leg trousers with a yoked waistband and a center back zipper (review/pictures to be posted soon). I'm comfortable inserting zippers in dresses, tops and the side seam of pants and I am partial to invisible zippers inserted before the seam is sewn. However, this pattern called for the zipper to be inserted in the center back seam--i.e., after that seam is sewn. I couldn't see as I could put off sewing the center back seam, so I followed the instructions and tried to put the (8") invisible zipper in after the rest of the crotch seam was sewn. Of course, I ended up with the dreaded pucker at the base of the zipper, though it's wearable. Is there a better way to do this? Should I have used a centered application (even though I didn't want the topstitching around my zipper)? If I make this pattern again, I'll likely move the zipper to the side seam, so please don't give me that suggestion. I'm interested in how to put the center zip in after that seam is sewn. Thank you!

my horse
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my horse
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North Carolina USA
Member since 5/9/05
Posts: 803
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Date: 3/21/11 4:33 PM

From your post I don't understand why you can't put the zipper in before the crotch seam is sewn. Is it some construction issue with the pattern? I haven't made that particular Burda but I did just finish a Burda pattern that called for a side seam zipper. I moved it to the back so I could tweak the side seam fit and I left the back crotch seam unsewn below the invisible zipper until I was ready to stitch the entire crotch.

On any pattern, what works best for you is the best way to do it, regardless of the order the company does it.

Did I get close or did I miss the question entirely :>) ?

Edited to add: Anytime you don't have flat pieces for zipper installation you are going to have a challenge depending on the length of the zipper. I've noticed quite a few lined dresses lately that call for the zipper to be inserted near the end of construction. I can't for the life of me, fiqure out why they want to make something so simple more difficult and unprofessional looking.
-- Edited on 3/21/11 4:43 PM --

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She looks for wool and flax And works with her hands in delight. Proverbs 31:13 NAS

fattyboomboom
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fattyboomboom
Intermediate
USA
Member since 2/10/09
Posts: 225
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Date: 3/22/11 8:50 AM

Oh yes, I've been there, and I have a garment that I never wear because of that dreaded butt pucker! Did you happen to interface the area of zipper insertion? I've found that a light interfacing makes the area lay flat and generally aids in a smoother zipper insertion. Also, no matter what, I always baste my zipper in first. Taking that extra time saves me lots of frustration and do-overs.

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www.stylememary.blogspot.com

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