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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Narrow shoulder and sleeve alteration

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Narrow shoulder and sleeve alteration
JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
Member since 4/20/08
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Date: 4/2/11 10:56 AM

I've often wondered, when making a narrow shoulder alteration, is there a need to alter the sleeve in any way?

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Member since 9/18/02
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Date: 4/2/11 12:13 PM

It depends how you make the alteration for the narrow shoulder. If the adjustment changes the size of the armscye, or if your arms are also narrow at the shoulder and biceps, then you may need to change the sleeve.

Do your sleeve look baggy at the top end? Do you have problems easing them into the armscye?
-- Edited on 4/2/11 12:15 PM --

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Debbie

Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/2/11 12:13 PM

It believe that if you narrow the shoulder then you should add to the height of the sleeve cap. In other words , if you narrow the shoulder by half an inch then you should also add half an inch to the height of the sleeve. I will be interested to hear other people's opinions.

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Elaine

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 4/2/11 12:47 PM

Elaine and Debbie, thanks so much for the insight. I've been doing narrow shoulder alterations for years, but never considered the sleeve when doing so. My alteration is: measure one inch at the top of the shoulder seam(front and back)slice about 6 inches down the center of the two marks. Then cut horizonally towards the armhole, leaving a hinge. Fold out at the top, tape it all down. I rarely true up the edge of the seam because I found it automatically makes a sloping shoulder adjustment if it's not trued. I need the sloping shoulder adjustment too.

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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In reply to Elaine Dougan


Date: 4/2/11 2:00 PM

Quote: Elaine Dougan
It believe that if you narrow the shoulder then you should add to the height of the sleeve cap.

Why? When narrowing the shoulder seam, you shouldn't be altering the armhole opening that the sleeve fits into. Am I missing something?

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Member since 8/28/08
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Date: 4/2/11 2:39 PM

If the sleeve itself is correct there is no need to make any change to it. If your shoulders are narrow you need to narrow the shoulder of the pattern so the sleeve will fall in the correct place on your body.

Edited to add: if you narrow the shoulder by slicing it off at the armhole it will make the armhole larger but shouldn't be enough that the sleeve still won't fit correctly. A better way to narrow the shoulder would be to move over the upper bodice at the armhole and correct the armhole line to correct any jags. This way the bodice armhole will not be changed in size.
-- Edited on 4/2/11 2:44 PM --
-- Edited on 4/2/11 2:44 PM --

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I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

mary in FL
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mary in FL  Friend of PR
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In reply to GlButterfly


Date: 4/2/11 6:35 PM

Quote: GlButterfly
... move over the upper bodice at the armhole and correct the armhole line to correct any jags. This way the bodice armhole will not be changed in size.

That sounds to me like "slide the shoulder point towards the neck." Of course, then the arm scye would have to be pivoted so that the under-arm point meets the side seam at the correct width for the bust.

------
from Daytona Beach, FL
http://mary-sews.blogspot.com/

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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In reply to mary in FL


Date: 4/2/11 9:08 PM

Actually it's a poor description on my part. I either should have left that out or been more thorough. I should have said: or cut an L shape by cutting down through the shoulder a few inches and making a cut through the armhole to meet it, then moving that piece over the amount needed to narrow the shoulder. Then correct the top of the bodice armhole curve so it meets the rest of the armhole in a nice smooth line.

I was trying, and not too successfully, to include another method of narrowing a shoulder and there are several.The main point is that the sleeve shouldn't need an adjustment just because the shoulder has been narrowed.

Thank you, Mary. Hope it's a little more clear now.

------
I have not yet begun to procrastinate

Update: soon I will decide when I will begin procrastinating.

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/2/11 10:18 PM

When I alter for narrow shoulders, I don't alter the sleeve either. I use Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit method, which I think is a variation on a pivot and slide method, and it keeps the armscye the same shape.

I think Fit for Real People has a different method, but I can't remember if the sleeve is altered in that method.

------
Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

JTink
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JTink
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VA USA
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In reply to GlButterfly


Date: 4/3/11 10:18 AM

Butterfly, I use the method you described to make my narrow shoulder adjustment(cutting an L). I find it gives me a cleaner line than just chopping off at the shoulder and graduating down the armhole. Plus it's pretty much a built in sloping shoulder adjustment too, if you don't true it back up. I've not had a real problem, that I know of, by not adjusting the sleeve, but just wondered if it was something that was "suppose" to happen. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and input.

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