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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Getting an invisible zipper to lay flat on silk jersey.... ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Getting an invisible zipper to lay flat on silk jersey....
beesnbutter
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beesnbutter
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Date: 5/6/11 11:58 AM

Ok- so i just installed an invisible zipper in some beautiful black silk jersey on the side of the dress. the zipper ends at my hip bone, unfortunately it is flaring out!! So far, I've cut off the excess tape at the bottom, and a little at the side. This made it a little better, but still not that great. I also hand sewed a few stitches of the now bare boned zipper at the bottom to the seam yet it still doesn't lay flat. Any suggestions?!?! Thanks!

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/6/11 12:05 PM

Did you interface the seam line for the zipper? It should end an inch or so past the length of the zipper.

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hornlinechick
hornlinechick
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Date: 5/6/11 12:12 PM

I have also had good luck with clipping the zipper tape like you clip a curve to release some of the tension from the tape and allow it some give, especially important if the fabric has some give. If you are afraid of fraying you can fray check the clips.
-Michelle

beesnbutter
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beesnbutter
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 5/6/11 12:15 PM

Alas, no I didn't interface at all.... the invisible zipper was easy to install and didn't pull or do anything weird except that it is flaring out!

Elona
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In reply to beesnbutter


Date: 5/6/11 1:02 PM

Does the dress absolutely need a zipper for you to get into it? I have found silk jersey to be amazingly stretchy. Depending on the style, you might just be able to omit the zipper.

taylormade
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Date: 5/6/11 1:05 PM

Unfortunately the key is the interfacing. Taking an invisible zipper out is not that hard...just a few carefully ripped stitches.
I usually cut interfacing to use on a knit fabric, 2 strips about 3/4" wide by the length of the zipper plus 1 1/2" so that it extends past where the zipper will end. Cut the interfacing on grain so it doesn't stretch, and then press on the seam allowance where the zipper is to be inserted. It will extend past the seam allowance a bit. That's okay. Then insert your zipper as usual, and you should be fine. (I find that pressing the zipper open makes it lie flatter in the seam. Some people don't think this step is necessary, but I always unzip and press the coils flat from the wrong side. Make sure your iron is not too hot.). You can go ahead and sew the ends of the zipper tape to the seam allowance at the bottom if you think that will help. If you are using a rather thin knit, I would pink the edges of the interfacing so you don't have a "line" that shows on the outside. Also make sure your interfacing weight is not too heavy for the fabric you are using. Hope this helps!

LynndaH
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In reply to taylormade <<
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Date: 1/16/14 11:22 AM

Thanks for the advice - I too came looking for a solution to this problem. I did as you suggested and it worked beautifully!

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