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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Copying ready to wear jeans

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Copying ready to wear jeans
redrockcity
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redrockcity  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MO USA
Member since 11/2/09
Posts: 17
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Date: 5/10/11 11:42 PM

I'm making my first pair of Jeans using Jalie 2908. The pattern is, as advertised, all that and more. In trying to figure out my size I started comparing my RTW jeans (Joe's Jeans, Citizens, and a pair from Boden) to the Jalie pattern. What I noticed, in all three cases, is that the RTW jeans all have a back panel that is wider than the front. In other words, when you lay the jeans flat face up, the outside seam is about one half to one inch from the edge. (Hopefully that makes sense). By contrast the Jalie jeans side seams are pretty much at the outer edge when laid out flat, face up.

I'm wondering 1) if this difference between back and front might account for the magic slimming nature of the RTW jeans by giving the illusion of having a narrower front and 2) if it might be possible to copy such a thing using the Jalie pattern with a smaller size width-wise in front and larger size width-wise in back, making sure to keep the rise the same of course!

Any one try this?

Twinset
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Twinset  Friend of PR
Intermediate
QC CANADA
Member since 9/15/07
Posts: 468
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Date: 5/11/11 1:24 AM

You're right, the slimming effect of good RTW jeans is the result of the back part being wider than the front. In other words, if you lay flat the jeans, the back extends over the front (just as you describe). If you want to alter the Jalie jeans, you could simply substract on the exterior side seam of the front part, and add what you've substracted to the back part. I tried this on the Jalie 2908 (not on the pairs shown in my review, but in later experiments) by substracting 1cm from the front and adding 1cm to the back. In my opinion it wasn't noticeable enough to get the 'slimming effect', so next time I'm trying 2cms.

You can study the side seam of some very good jeans brands on Net a porter. You'll notice that the front is significantly smaller than the back. Also check the placement of the back pocket in relation to the side seam. The front pockets also tend to be placed closer to the CF than on Jalie 2908.
-- Edited on 5/11/11 1:26 AM --

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Since joining PR: 6 sewing machines, kilometers of stash and tons of fun

redrockcity
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redrockcity  Friend of PR
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MO USA
Member since 11/2/09
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Date: 5/11/11 8:43 AM

Thanks for the tip!

Measuring my Joe's Jeans it looks like the difference between front and back at the side seam is ~1 inch at the hip tapering to 1/2 inch at the knee and staying constant at that 1/2 difference to the hem.

I'm going to try doing this on pair #2. Pair #1 is looking like a somewhat wearable muslin as I had to take it in so much at the hip my pocket is essentially useless. (I went with my hip measurements for the Jalie pattern and I think I could easily have gone a size down!)

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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MN USA
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Date: 5/11/11 2:33 PM

Check back and let us know how this worked. I thought I had perfected my Jalie jeans, but alas, I might have to make another pair with this new information.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

CVT

CVT
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 10/26/03
Posts: 47
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Date: 5/11/11 4:18 PM

I agree with Lazycat. I noticed the same differences when I made Jalie 2908 and then copied my Pilcro and the Letterpress jeans. Much larger back, skinny skinny front. To the point where I kept looking at the pattern I drew and wondered if it were really right. Also front pockets are set in much closer to center. All optical illusions for slimming....

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