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angle of the crotch point
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 5/13/11 10:48 AM

Has anyone ever angled the back crotch point down, in a pair of pants? I know this can be done on the front to take out some of the "baggies". I have a wedgie/scoop situation in the back of my paints. Scooping seldom helps. I was wondering if slanting the point down would make a difference and if so, what?

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/13/11 9:50 PM

Good question. I'm bumping this up for you.

GBK

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Date: 5/14/11 3:51 PM

Interesting question indeed.

When the angle is slanted at the front pants, am I right in assuming that this works particularly well for women with a tilted pelvis (BTW -- aren't these the majority? Pattern companies should factor this in their pants pattern one day.)

Perhaps I am totally wrong but if not, then a downward slanted angle at the back crotch point should work well if your derriere's shape is like that. Not applicable for me so I won't try but if you do, please keep us posted how it worked for you!

ETA: I just looked at the shape of the crotch curve of mine based on measurement with a flexible ruler -- no wonder that no pants so far fitted right out of the pattern ... thanks for this 'reminder'
-- Edited on 5/14/11 6:48 PM --

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Elona
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In reply to GBK


Date: 5/14/11 5:59 PM

As to the question of the normal pelvic tilt or angle, take a look at this sagittal section of a normal female pelvis.

How many patterns do you find--other than Burda--that feature the correct tilt?

GBK

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In reply to Elona


Date: 5/14/11 6:34 PM

That's exactly what I mean -- all or almost all women have a tilted pelvis so I wonder why pattern companies don't take this into account when designing the crotch curve. Burda is better than other companies -- but if I am reading many of the posts here on fitting pants, then even burda could improve ...

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Elona
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In reply to GBK


Date: 5/14/11 7:18 PM

Here's a comparison series of basic pants patterns from the major companies, contained in the book Every Sewer's Guide to the Perfect Fit. Kind of makes you wonder what the designers think a woman's pelvis looks like, doesn't it?

Note the miniscule front-to-back body space of the McCall's pattern! The woman it was designed for must have been a Barbie doll.

And the Simplicity is for a woman whose front crotch is lower than her butt!

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to JTink


Date: 5/14/11 7:20 PM

It changes the shape and length of the crotch if you do. What I would suggest is a fisheye dart across your bum. Look into the Knowledge Base for Debbie Cook's Fisheye dart and that should help you.

I have a book by Else Tyroler called Making Pants for Women, and she suggests something like a fisheye dart, although the book is much older than Debbie's method; even older than Debbie or me, for that matter.

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MNBarb
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In reply to Elona


Date: 5/14/11 8:28 PM

Elona, that was interesting. I wonder if Simplicity has changed their design. I heard they were working hard to have a new image and better fit. I recently made some Simplicity pants and they fit quite well with very minor adjustments. Too bad one can't make these comparisons before purchasing the pattern. I need to take a look at that fitting book. Thanks.

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Elona
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 5/14/11 10:03 PM

It's interesting to overlay and compare your own traced-off patterns in different lines. I have a Burda butt, and I find that Loes Hinse's Euopean Pants are very, very similar--and they fit me well.

McCalls--never, not even the Palmer & Pletsch models. However, there was a rumor at one point that McCall's was attempting a new crotch curve similar to that of HotPatterns as a trial. Can't confirm that, though.

GBK

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In reply to Elona


Date: 5/15/11 4:06 AM

This fitting book was the very first one I got and the pic you refer to was an eye-opener to me! :)

With some pattern companies offering now for the bodice different cup sizes, who knows and they start to offer pant patterns with different crotch curves as well? I'd bet that the vast majority of women do most fitting corrections for pants (with or withot success ).

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