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Message Board > Home Dec. Sewing > Matching print over piping ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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Matching print over piping
How to get prints to line up
lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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Date: 5/13/11 11:28 PM

Hello. I could use some help please.

I have home dec fabric with a crosshatch design on it. I am making a headboard for a queen size bed, so I am seaming two lengths to make the headboard cover double the width of the fabric.
I have decided to sew in piping in the seam.

Now, I have no problem sewing in piping and I am able to match prints pretty accurately (for quilt backing for example), but matching prints over piping seams more complicated. Am I making this too hard. Any tips?

-- Edited on 5/13/11 11:51 PM --

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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In reply to lrstanfill


Date: 5/14/11 11:58 AM

So your seam is at the center of the bed, and you want to pipe that? I would think you'd want to match the fabric on either side so the seam wouldn't really read unless you look closely.

I think piping generally doesn't match the pattern. In fact, for a curved seam, you really need to cover the piping with a bias strip to get it to lie flat. Goodbye matching :).

In your case, I'm not sure you could match the piping because the pattern is on the diagonal, and not at a 45deg. angle. The piping strip is going to have some width, so the pattern is going to be at an angle. Perhaps someone else will have an idea.

I guess you can take the pattern directly off the first piece, up around the piping, and continue on the second piece. The problem is that it isn't going to match if you look directly at it as the piping strip won't be flat. You'll just see one side of the piping strip.

lrstanfill
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Date: 5/14/11 1:36 PM

Sorry, the piping is solid, nothing to match on the piping. I just want the two pieces to match on either side of the piping

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/14/11 1:46 PM

This is how I do it. Iron some steam a seam light onto the sa with the piping.
Take the next piece and fold in the sa and line it up from the front and fuse it in place, then stitch.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

lrstanfill
lrstanfill
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Date: 5/14/11 2:46 PM

Diane that sounds like a much easier way to do it. I matched on the fabric with one piece folded and pin basted. Then I flipped it to pin baste on the other side so that I could remove the first set of pins and unfold the flap. Confusing? Yes. The results are ok. Since this is just a headboard I'm not going to obsess, but if it were for couch upholstery or something like that I would need to be more exact. Here are the results:

ukdame
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In reply to lrstanfill


Date: 5/14/11 4:29 PM

Looks perfect to me.

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It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something. ~ Franklin D Roosevelt 1843
Janome 19606 ,Janome My Excel 4023, Brother 1034D, White 1750C, Kenmore 158.1803, White 764, Brother 780D.

lrstanfill
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Date: 5/14/11 4:52 PM

LOL ukdame. My mom thought it looked great and since it is going on her bed, that is all that counts.

diane s
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Date: 5/14/11 7:03 PM

You did a great job. I made a padded headboard with slipcover for my daughter. I had a little trouble getting the cover over the muslin covered headboard I made, so I put another covering over it, made from some nylon taffeta lining in stash, and it slid right on.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

lrstanfill
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Date: 5/14/11 7:11 PM

One more question:
This fabric is pretty substantial, so the seam is pretty bulky. Right now I've left it with .5 in seam allowance. Should I trim close the piping, or just tell her to keep the allowance to one side?

diane s
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Date: 5/14/11 7:25 PM

Does the fabric ravel alot? Can you serge it? I wouldn't trim all the layers the same, I would try and grade it, but if you can't serge it, maybe pink it.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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