SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
PatternReview.com
PatternReview.com

Forum > Fitting Woes > Bodice armscyes ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Bodice armscyes
Is there
ccris
ccris
Intermediate
Member since 10/27/05
Posts: 5002
Send Message

      



Date: 5/15/11 5:40 PM

a standard with regard to how much shorter the front should be than the back, on either a set-in or extended set-in sleeve bodice armscye? The pattern I'm using has the back at 7/8" longer than the front. What happens to the drape of the sleeve if you make the back 1-7/8" longer than the front, or even if you made them both the same length? Obviously, if you change the armscye, you have to change the sleeve. What I'm really wondering is how changing the above really affects the drape of the sleeve. I know.........if I try it I'll find out. Just wondering who has some experience with this. The fabric would be 100% woven cotton with no stretch.
-- Edited on 5/15/11 5:44 PM --

Kemish
star
Kemish  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 4/24/06
Posts: 282
Send Message

      



Date: 5/16/11 11:10 AM

I am not sure if this really answers your question or not.
In most patterns the armscye is not the same length front and back. From the shoulder point to the front notch will measure smaller than the shoulder point down down to the back notch. The back side of the armscye should be longer than the front because we are -usually- longer along our backs than the front. However, not all patterns are drafted this way - many have the front of the armsyce and the back of the armscye equal in length.
The sleeve from the front notch to back notch should measure larger than the armscye from front notch to back notch - this is the ease. If you fold the sleeve pattern piece at the shoulder point (usually a dot or a line at the top of the cap) and align the side seams then you can see the back of the sleeve is larger than the front.
Having said all that and I hope I haven't confused you - if you add length to the sleeve cap (either in the front and/or the back) you don't necessarily have to add it to the armsyce however it will be a bit more of a challenge to get the sleeve sewn smoothly into the armsyce, of course this is how you would make a gathered sleeve.
Many times without any alterations to the armscye or the sleeve you'll get these long diagonal wrinkles - this can usually be fixed rotating the sleve cap forward a bit and resewing the sleeve into the armsyce. Also , you can remove all the ease from the sleeve and make it the exact same size as the armscye - this change makes it asoer to sew, but will give you a very tight fitted sleeve. Ultimately, sewing it out is the way to truly see what is happening.

------
Kemish

ccris
ccris
Intermediate
Member since 10/27/05
Posts: 5002
Send Message

      



In reply to Kemish


Date: 5/16/11 12:28 PM

Oooh, thanks for your reply. No, you didn't confuse me. According to what you posted, there's no standard.........I can see that based on different drafts.

OK....here's the problem......visualize this: plain shirt pattern or pj pattern (for male) with no yoke and collar without stand and slightly extended shoulder. Front and back bodice was adjusted which changed the length of the armscyes.........back ended up being 1-7/8" longer than front (original pattern had the back just 7/8" longer than front). Sleeve adjusted to fit new armscye. When the muslin was finished and tried on, something was wrong with the hang of the sleeve (sorry, no pics). It didn't hang right. With arms down to side, the outside of the bottom of the sleeve hiked up.....inside bottom sleeve fell right at the wrist, as it's supposed to. I'm trying to figure out why this happened. It shouldn't have, but it did. Hmmmmmm I suspect it's the much longer back armscye that caused this, but I really don't know........hence, my question on wondering if there was a standard. I do not feel like singing in the rain.

Kemish
star
Kemish  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 4/24/06
Posts: 282
Send Message

      



Date: 5/17/11 11:15 AM

I think, based on your description, that you answered your own question.

But how to fix this? The easiest fix would be to add the the bottom of the sleeve in order to have the sleeve even on the bottom. I know this isn't the proper way - I think that would entail redrafting the pattern, but sometimes it is just good to get to done especially if it is a casual shirt/PJ. Lesson learned for the next garment.

------
Kemish

ccris
ccris
Intermediate
Member since 10/27/05
Posts: 5002
Send Message

      



In reply to Kemish


Date: 5/19/11 1:39 PM

This is an issue on a previous muslin.....not recent. I'm about to make up another, and didn't want to run into the same problem.

I thought about fixing it at the bottom, too, or even putting darts on the inside sleeve at elbow (then lengthening), but don't want to do either, simply because something is wrong at the armscye area (draft of length of sleeve from shoulder point). Now, to figure out exactly what I did to cause this is the big question. Sigh

Amelia Airhead

Amelia Airhead
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
Member since 12/29/05
Posts: 8
Send Message

      



Date: 5/28/11 11:23 AM

You may want to check if the pattern is defective.

I ran smack into an issue with a jacket I was making and after banging my head on a wall trying to figure out what I did wrong, I got the pattern back out. Lined up the two pattern pieces that weren't working and the problem was with the pattern, the lengths didn't match. Buttrick. Stopped sewing for quite a few years after that.

aliann1
aliann1  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 12/8/07
Posts: 282
Send Message

      



In reply to ccris


Date: 5/28/11 10:12 PM

I just bought a copy of the June/July issue of Sew News today because there is an article in it on fitting sleeves and armscyces by Christine Jonson. I only had a chance to glance at the article while I was in Hancock's, but I plan to study it in more detail when I have a little time.

Hope this helps.

sewsally
star
sewsally  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 8/18/02
Posts: 1327
Send Message

      



Date: 5/29/11 12:42 PM

Connie Crawford gave us this info on balancing patterns..

Back armhole - 1/4-3/4" longer than the front.

Front bodice 1 inch wider than the back.

Side seams match in shape.

Check out her pattern drafting book.

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Send Message

      



In reply to ccris


Date: 5/29/11 8:49 PM

When you added the inch to the back of the armscye, you should have also added the inch to the sleeve cap. How you do this is you cut a slash in the cap, and separate it by sliding it more toward the front, which would make the back longer. Redraw your front armhole.

Because the back hangs shorter, is because the sleeve cap doesn't show the length. While it might be a good idea to add the length at the bottom, as someone suggested, my thinking is that this would make the bottom of the sleeve off-grain and make it roll toward the front, trying to find a "place to land".

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

ccris
ccris
Intermediate
Member since 10/27/05
Posts: 5002
Send Message

      



Date: 5/30/11 12:03 PM

Everyone.........thanks...........all good suggestions. I'm printing them out. I have the Sew News issue and have read CJ's article.

Now, for the second question, and it's a HUMDINGER. Reference the measurement from BACK center waist to outside shoulder...........If the length is too long there by about 1/3/4", how do you shorten it without making the armscye smaller? If I shorten that area and add the armscye length back at the bottom, then I've just succeeded in changing the length of the back side seam.........it won't match the front...............the front side seam does NOT need lengthened. Oh gawd, these durn adjustments lead to another and another and another. They're killing me!!!

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Bodice armscyes

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

Register

Sewing Facings and Developing Facing Patterns
Sewing Facings and Developing Facing Patterns

Register

Butterick 5672

photo
by: mochimo

Review
New Look 6936

photo
by: JUNIPERJUN...

Review

Pattern

Christine Jonson Pleat Front Dress

Christine Jonson Pleat Front Dress

Buy Now
Islander Sewing Systems Men's Islander Shirt Pattern Pattern

Islander Sewing Systems Men's Islander Shirt Pattern Pattern

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.