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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > master patterns

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master patterns
Calendria
Calendria
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Date: 6/11/11 5:57 PM

I am considering making a master pattern to work with. but my ? is if you have a master pattern how do u use it to adjust another pattern for your body? thats the part that confuses me.

especially cuz I would be using the fitnice system to make a master pattern. and I really would consider making some of the other variations, but the variations come off as being too corny and have a very "home-made look to them.

any ideas?

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to Calendria


Date: 6/11/11 7:39 PM

A master pattern (also known as a "fitting shell") is made by pattern manufacturers to show you how their patterns will fit on your body. Simplicity has one, McCalls has one; even Butterick (which is the pattern company that you had a problem with in a previous post). The adjustments you make to that master pattern will be the same adjustments you make to the patterns made by the same company.

The Fit Nice system has a master pattern, that is based on a simple design, and is used to make other patterns using that same system. If you find the variations too "corny" and have "home made look to them", then what other pattern companies are you looking at?

Kwik Sew has a master pattern; in fact, has several in their Easy Sewing the Kwik Sew Way. They also have regular paper patterns you can buy, once you work with the Master pattern and find your fitting issues.

I've seen your posts on the other boards and it seems as if you are trying different things out--Good for you! But sometimes, especially if you are a beginner, you need to focus on just one thing and then move on to something else. HTH

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marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/11/11 10:14 PM

If I were going to make a fitting shell (which I might, one of these days), I think I would choose the one from the pattern company whose patterns I think am most likely to sew up in the future. For me, this would be a choice between Vogue and Simplicity.

That said, I have read that the big 4 are more or less the same. Here's a recent thread that discusses the fitting shell, pro and con, and has a link to a Threads Magazine article about how you use one.

If you search these boards for 'fitting shell' (search for the phrase in 'messages' as well as in 'titles and descriptions,' and you'll get more) there's a lot of information here.

**Just looked around a little for info about the Fitnice System and I see the attraction -- Once you've worked out your adjustments, you're 'done' fitting, and you then make up the variations from your master; this rather than coming up with a set of adjustments from a fitting shell and then applying them again and again each time you work on a new pattern. But isn't the usefulness of such a system going to be precisely in how much you like the variations on offer? Of course, if you are willing to wing it and experiment, you can always come up with your own variations...

If you're not crazy about the Fitnice variations, an alternative might be to establish several TNT patterns (tried-and-true) from other pattern companies by going through the fitting process with each of them, choosing basic designs that flatter your figure type. Then have fun changing them, making your own set of variations. You see that going on a lot around here, copying the latest RTW trends, and whatnot.

Here are 3 examples of what PR member nicegirl did with a basic skirt pattern: Simplicity 5914 (This pattern is now a TNT for me.)

There was a contest last August that challenged people to make up a number of different looks from one pattern. The results were really inspiring, but I can't find a link to the contest gallery anymore. (Anyone know how to find old contests, no longer on the contest page?) I think Amy-may won it; here's what she did with the super-easy Jalie scarf-tie top pattern.

If Marcy Tilton is your style, there are loads of pictures on her site showing how her patterns (and many others) have been made up differently. The link is to the 'Marcy's Closet' page on her website, but there are many, many pages of ideas all over the site. Her clothes are not closely-fitted, as a rule.

Well, mostly just talking to myself, here. Looking, like you, for the Holy Grail of fitting!

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marjoriekh

Calendria
Calendria
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Date: 6/11/11 11:34 PM

I actually like simplicity, mccall and kwik sew patterns and a few folkwears. those are my big ones, I think i'll just stick to those and learn how to make my basic adjustments. I just realized the other day that for my height, my waist length is a size ten, my bust is like 22 and my hips are what . . . 24 or 26W. yeah, i'm just all other the place, lol

Calendria
Calendria
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Date: 6/11/11 11:34 PM

I actually like simplicity, mccall and kwik sew patterns and a few folkwears. those are my big ones, I think i'll just stick to those and learn how to make my basic adjustments. I just realized the other day that for my height, my waist length is a size ten, my bust is like 22 and my hips are what . . . 24 or 26W. yeah, i'm just all other the place, lol

Calendria
Calendria
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Date: 6/11/11 11:34 PM

oh and I forgot, elizabeth lee is nice too.

Kathy in NM
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Date: 6/13/11 11:19 PM

Based on the sizing info you provided, I'm wondering if you have looked at the petite plus patterns? I have not used them, but thought many of the styles were cute. If you look at the sizing chart on their website you will notice the back waist length is much shorter than standard patterns. I see they offer add-on patterns also. So if you get some of the basics to fit there are more options.

Again,I've never used these patterns. But it seems they might be worth a try.

Aside from that, I used a vogue fitting pattern for pants. After two muslins, I'm quite happy with the fit. I'll use this as a basis for other pants, or as a guideline for making adjustments to other patterns by comparing them. I have the bodice fitting pattern also - not sewn yet.

I hadn't thought about what Miss Fairchild mentioned -each company has their own fitting pattern which should relate to all of that companies patterns. I think it would be easier to stick with one, then get creative to make the style changes you want. Ha, that is my "plan" anyway!
-- Edited on 6/13/11 11:23 PM --

Kathy in NM
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Date: 6/13/11 11:28 PM

Tried to edit, but my iPad is not cooperating....I like Marjoriekh's ideas about modifying patterns. I just need to jump in and do it. I know everything won't work. But, trying is the only way to learn! I often make things assuming they will be pjs or exercise wear for muslins. That way, if they don't work it is ok.

Interesting topic!

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