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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > fold over hemmed necklines vs bias tape ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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fold over hemmed necklines vs bias tape
pipet

pipet  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 7/23/08
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Date: 6/12/11 4:55 PM

Hi,

For sleeveless styled tops, I've seen patterns that call for foldover hemmed necklines and armholes and others that call for using bias tape to finish those edges. I've also seen peasant style blouse patterns where the fabric is simply folded over to make a neckline casing and other patterns where bias tape is called for to make the casing. I don't really get the reason for one choice vs the other. What are the pros & cons for using bias tape in these situations vs just folding the fabric over for a narrow hem or casing?

In some cases, I can see that maybe the bias tape might provide extra support (although I am not clear on when this would be). In the case of making the elastic neckline for a peasant blouse, is Wrights just trying to make some extra $??

Thanks for your help in clearing this up for me!!!

KatieA

KatieA
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 5/30/05
Posts: 361
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Date: 6/12/11 5:58 PM

I find it quite hard to do a hem on very curved edges like armholes or necklines so there bias tape would be good.

You can always make it from spare fabric.

MarinaVK
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MarinaVK  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/12/11 6:13 PM

I agree, bias binding is a better and more professional finish for curved edges (that's what I learned). You can also use facings to finish the edge, but my personal preference is bias binding.

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pipet

pipet  Friend of PR
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CA USA
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In reply to KatieA


Date: 6/12/11 6:13 PM

So is it more of a ease of sewing thing? I know some curves are more difficult to manipulate if you try a foldover hem, but does a bias tape finish hold up better/give better results if the curve is such that you can get a narrow hem?

I do typically make my own bias tape, but when I saw a peasant blouse pattern calling for bias tape rather than folding over the fabric for a neckline casing, I started to get suspicious that some of the bias tape usage in the major commercial patterns was more marketing than necessity cause I am sure that many just buy the tape as directed. I also wondered if it had anything to do with making it seem like the pattern uses less fabric. I always plan for more fabric whenever I see bias tape on the pattern package.

Vireya
Vireya
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 12/10/05
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Date: 6/12/11 6:14 PM

It will depend a bit on the shape.

A tight curve will not be able to be just "folded over", because you won't have enough fabric to do that - think about the way you have to clip curves to get them to lie flat.

Straight edges could be folded over, but maybe there are reasons of style or design that might dictate a particular finish.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to pipet


Date: 6/12/11 9:51 PM

What I have found with the folded over version is that when I fold it to the outside/inside, then try to stitch it, puckers appear; mostly around my lower armscye which has a sharp curve. So I gave up and now use bias tape and I turn it to the inside. It has a much more professional look and finish to all my clothes. And it does provide extra support in that it keeps the curve, whether it be neckline or armscye, in check.

And BTW, Wright's can't make any money off me, at least not for quite a while because I have several 10 yard bolts of beautiful printed bias tape I purchased at the Trimtex warehouse a few years back.

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