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Forum > Fitting Woes > Jalie Jeans - side & inseams twisting, among other things ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Jalie Jeans - side & inseams twisting, among other things
dorothyn
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dorothyn  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/3/05
Posts: 242
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Date: 6/16/11 11:54 PM

Silly me. I had a dream that because so many people were so in love with the Jalie Jeans pattern, that I might just be able to stitch it up without a lot of pain. No such luck.

I've made a thoroughly unwearable muslin and uncovered a number of problems. I took photos in it and my best fitting pair of RTW jeans and have them in side by side comparisons. The jeans are nonstretch. The muslin is a stretch cotton with enough stretch as required by the Jalie pattern. I can see that this low of a rise is not flattering for my shape and I don't think I want them quite this tight, so will probably ultimately make the higher rise version, but I think the fitting issues would be independent of this (?).

Front

Side

Back

The first major problem is that the side seam and inseam are twisting badly, inseam going forward and side seam going backward. Other than the cheap fabric I used for the muslin, I don't understand why this would be happening. I can see in the jeans that this is happening slightly from the knee down, but only a bit. It does look like the back of the Jalie pattern is just not big enough for me, like it doesn't wrap around the outside of my body/legs enough.

The other major problem that may not be obvious from the front view, but I think you can see pretty well from the side view, is that I have full front thighs, a protruding pubic bone with a hollow in between on both sides where my hip flexor muscles are. As a result, the fabric "trampolining" between my pubic bone and both thighs.

I've read other posts about the full front thigh adjustment, but don't recall reading anything about the rest of my combo in that area. Would Els' method for the full front thigh from the Sewing Divas work for me?

I also compared the crotch curves between my jeans and the Jalie pattern, and aside from the difference in rise, they looked pretty similar to me. You can't see all of both curves in this photo, but you can see that the leg width is very similar when folded as if for creasing and the top of the jeans front and back curve lines up with the muslin's curves:

Crotch curve

So, where do I start? This is so frustrating for me. I have a darned engineering degree, but I can't figure out how to fit a pair of pants. I guess that's why I went for electrical rather than mechanical engineering! Please help spatially gifted ladies and gents!

------
Dorothy

"Mr Shepherd, ye cannot stop a bad thought from coming into your head. But ye need not pull up a chair and bide it sit down."

Violet Brown in Barbara Kingsolver's The Lacuna

mastdenman
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mastdenman  Friend of PR
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 1/12/04
Posts: 6177
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Date: 6/17/11 1:04 AM

Try balancing the pattern. Fold the front and back pattern pieces in half on the grain line. The edges should line up right on top of one another from the knee on down to the floor. If they don't, you need to modify the pattern. This doesn't mean that the front and back leg width has to be the same, just that the edges need to match.

Your muslin looks good.
-- Edited on 6/17/11 1:05 AM --

------
Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

Sew4Fun
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Sew4Fun
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/23/04
Posts: 4885
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In reply to dorothyn


Date: 6/17/11 1:57 AM

Dorothy, I think you are being far too hard on yourself. Seeing the photos side by side, other than the difference in the rise, what I see is basically the same pair of jeans. If you hadn't have told me I would have said they came from the same pattern because the wrinkles on both pairs are almost identical. The only real difference is your fabric is a lighter weight and therefore emphasing some things more.

As for the inseams and side seams, you must first take up the hem before you can assess anything. The excess fabric dragging on the ground may be causing your issue. I think this and the increasing the rise is where you need to start. Start with the major issues and fix them one by one. AFterall pants hang from the waist so get the waist right first. That's my two cents. HTH

Oh and btw, IMHO you can't properly asses the fit of pants while you are holding them in place. You need to attach the waistband so you can walk and sit in the pants. I can tell more about the fit of my pants when I walk and sit, than when I stand in front of a mirror.

-- Edited on 6/17/11 2:03 AM --

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

MareeAlison
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MareeAlison
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International AUSTRALIA
Member since 6/6/05
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Date: 6/17/11 4:28 AM

Hi Dorothy. I was thinking the same as Belinda - that the fit doesn't look half bad and heavier fabric may make all the difference.

Not very helpful am I. I think I'm a little jealous that they look so good on you. I'm the worst one for fitting pants though. I'm still working on the Jalie pants that everyone thought were really excellent but I've been having problems.

Good luck.

------
Maree - Sydney, Australia

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 4/3/10
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Date: 6/17/11 6:14 AM

I'm third to agree that the mock-up looks almost identical to your RTW pants and heavier fabric will correct some of the wrinkle lines.

In regards to rise, you might want to do some measuring of your "favorite" jeans before automatically cutting the Jalie regular rise. My body has a long rise and I needed to adjust the rise on the Jalie pattern to somewhere between their low and regular version.

BTW, you have a perfect shape for jeans. When you "iron out the wrinkles" on this pattern I think you will be thrilled with the results and will have eliminated the need to search for tall jeans.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/17/11 9:00 AM

I want you to feel like you get support on PR ... but ... I've got to say I think your muslin looks fine and you are being too harsh on yourself. I agree with the comments above that putting the waist band on and hemming them might just do the trick.

Personally, I made my Jalie jeans a bit looser in the thigh than the pattern. I just find that more comfortable and I like comfort. They still fit like stretch jeans but not SO closely and therefore not so wrinkly. By the end of the day, I have a little fabric sagging going on under my butt. I consider that worthwhile for the day of comfort. I mention all this just to give you something to think about. Do you like your jeans truly tight (compressing you), or a bit looser (your measurement and then stretching a bit during the day?

JEF

------
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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Missouri USA
Member since 1/20/08
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In reply to JEF


Date: 6/17/11 9:07 AM

I did the same, I widened that back piece even further because they were just leegings-tight on my chubby legs.

But, I have had pants legs twist before and it was because I had cut them off-grain. Make sure that your fabric itself is on grain when you are cutting the pattern pieces, and also make sure that when you lay your pattern out you are lining up the grain of your fabric with the long axis of the leg...not with the hip/waist area.

If, once you trim the excess from the length, they are still twisting you might want to check the grainline.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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Michigan USA
Member since 4/8/07
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In reply to dorothyn


Date: 6/17/11 10:55 AM

First I admit that I only looked at your pictures and did not read the entire message. That said, you really have to attach the waistband to assess the fit. Holding the pants can distort the fit. Personally, I think the fit is quite good and see some of the same back wrinkles in your RTW pants.

kchow
kchow
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 6/3/11
Posts: 7
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Date: 6/17/11 4:11 PM

I think that they fit quite well on you. And btw I'm an electrical engineer too!And I'm about to make these Jalie stretch jeans, so reading everything I can on them.

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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New York USA
Member since 3/16/07
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Date: 6/17/11 4:55 PM

I agree to go ahead and hem (or at least cut to length), and add the waistline.

Also, if your fabric is really cheap, the grain may not be straight. If the grain in your fabric isn't straight, you really can't cut it on the right grainline.

Making sure the grainline on the pattern pieces is also something to put on the to-do list.

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