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Wrangling reversible double cloth
MissMarnie
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MissMarnie
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 5/9/11
Posts: 12
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Date: 7/3/11 12:19 PM

I was in Los Angeles' garment district, the other week and I found some amazing cotton gauze double cloth that is plaid on one side and gingham on the other.

Picture of the fabric.

I thought it would be really fun to make a cool breezy skirt and McCall's 5056 would allow me to do the skirt with the fabric from one side and the godets with the fabric on the alternating side.

The main portion of the skirt will need to align at the waist, so I thought I'd do the gingham side for that, to make it easier to get everything orderly, but I'm finding this fabric incredibly hard to get and keep on grain. Are there any tips? I don't feel like I can fudge this with such a strong grid pattern, but the pieces aren't perfect rectangles so even if I appear to have the grainline right, the edges may still be wonky. If I flub this, I won't have enough extra fabric to try again.

Also, worth noting, I'm laying out and cutting this on a low pile carpet, not on a smooth surface.

Any advice or suggestions (even if that suggestion is DANGER DANGER, DON'T EVEN BOTHER) is much appreciated.

EveS
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EveS
Intermediate
Michigan USA
Member since 11/26/06
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Date: 7/3/11 2:29 PM

Wow! Ok, I've made this skirt before a loooong time ago. It's kind of a pita just because of all of the darned godets. LOTS of cutting. LOTS of lining up. LOTS of sewing....and then you will probably have to let it hang before you finish the hem and then recut...I did mine with a gauze and the bias really caused the godets to stretch.

Are you trying to make this reversible? If you aren't, I would probably save yourself some SERIOUS hassle and just use 2 different fabrics, not 2 fabrics with two layers. And if you ARE trying to do a reversible skirt, um...again...Wow!!! That's alotta work!!!

If it were my fabric (and I love it, btw!!), I would use it on a simple dress or skirt or something that you COULD make reversible, something with minimal seams, maybe? You would have to consider closures carefully, but I think it could be very cool.

Please keep us posted!
Eve

------
People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it - Chinese proverb

Sharon1952
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Sharon1952  Friend of PR
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Massachusetts USA
Member since 7/1/08
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In reply to MissMarnie


Date: 7/3/11 2:44 PM

Love the fabric! That will make a really cool skirt. Cut a single layer at a time and put the markings to match onto the pattern pieces. Pin the heck out of the pattern pieces. Cut carefully- and then keep up posted.

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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown

MissMarnie
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MissMarnie
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Oregon USA
Member since 5/9/11
Posts: 12
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Date: 7/3/11 2:53 PM

Thanks Eve! I suppose I'm going to have to think on thisI definitely don't plan to make it reversible, but I thought the two layers of gauze would be cool yet sufficiently opaque to make for a really comfortable summer skirt. I may be flying too close to the sun on this project, haha.

This is actually my "get to know you" cut of fabric, since I've never worked with this stuff before. I have a cut of another version of this fabric that I like a little bit better, to use on something that I'm really excited about.

Plaid plaid everywhere

So, while I want this to work out, I'm willing to make something I'm not thrilled about. And at $4 a yard, it's not too much of a heart break if I crash and burn.

MissMarnie
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MissMarnie
Advanced Beginner
Oregon USA
Member since 5/9/11
Posts: 12
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In reply to Sharon1952


Date: 7/3/11 4:08 PM

Thank you Sharon! Great tips. I'll report back with whatever happens. Knowing my luck/skill, I'll be glad if I can produce something that looks even remotely wearable.

MissMarnie
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MissMarnie
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Oregon USA
Member since 5/9/11
Posts: 12
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Date: 7/4/11 11:56 AM

Well, I did it, and I won't say it was easy to cut out all the pieces, but it was worth the effort. I'm totally happy with the end result.

I posted my pattern review with detailed information about how I wrangled the fabric and sewed the godets here. I know I really blew it on matching the gingham, but I'm still really pleased with how it all came together.

Thanks so much for all the help and feedback.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 4/1/08
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In reply to MissMarnie


Date: 7/4/11 1:26 PM

What incredible and irrestible fabric. I could not have passed it up. Nice pattern too! But what a bear to combine the two. I love double cloth and think it is especially worth the extra details required to use it in a reversible garment. As soon as I saw the fabric it made me think of the simple straight lined button down one or both sides skirts and tank dresses that are so comfortable and versatile in hot and humid weather. You know, the longer style that you can keep buttoned for modesty or unbuttoned if your walking stride needs it or you're at an outdoor party and it's a little warm or you want to be just a bit more casual. You may have cut it out by now, but I wonder too if the weight of the double cloth and the detailing will take the "swing and sway" out of your skirt. It will be fun to see what you create. Looks like I need to do a little West Coast fabric shopping. It is a problem to find appropriate year round fabrics for our Texas coastal area climate. I've also been happy to see more double cloth on the market. Thanks for sharing.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

MissMarnie
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MissMarnie
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Oregon USA
Member since 5/9/11
Posts: 12
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Date: 7/4/11 2:03 PM

Luckily, the fabric retained its swing and sway and I think the extra weight of the double layer of fabric, actually helped more than it hurt. You can see my review here.

I would have LOVED to make this reversible but I'm definitely not that skilled. It's probably a waste of such great reversible fabric but I'll still wear the heck out of it :)

If you ever make it out to Los Angeles, I strongly recommend Michael Levine. It's in the garment district, which borders a really sketchy part of town, but it's well worth the slog.

Sharon1952
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Sharon1952  Friend of PR
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Massachusetts USA
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In reply to MissMarnie


Date: 7/4/11 3:10 PM

Fast sewing and great results. You should be proud of your accomplishment.

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Sewing: A creative mess is better than tidy idleness. ~Author Unknown

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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Texas USA
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In reply to MissMarnie


Date: 7/4/11 4:03 PM

It is beautiful. Again, you've a great eye for fabric and patterns. I eat my words, the combination has great movement which is a testament to your skill in constructing it.

I really appreciate what, to me, are fresh approaches with fabrics and patterns that so many of all the levels of beginners bring to this site. Often, when posting to a question, I try to do a little online research for examples which leads to more learning for me. Reminds me of my volunteer work at the literacy council. I learn as much or more by teaching than my students.

Thanks for posting your pictures and review. Uhmm....do you have any scraps left for a bandana for your dog?

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

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