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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > High Round Back Alteration

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High Round Back Alteration
On Simplicity 2497 View A - dress with neckband
Gemaki
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Gemaki
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GREECE
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Date: 7/4/11 9:00 AM

Thought I'd pick everyone's brain a bit because mine is hurting trying to work this out!

I'm making Simplicity 2497 View A in silk charmeuse. My question is how do I make a high round back alteration on this dress that has no CB seam and has a 1" or so neck band. I guess I need about 1/2" or so really as that's how much the neckline is falling away from my necklace at the back.

I've got both 'FastFit' and 'Fit for Real People' but I'm getting confused!

Should I just make the alteration just below seamline on the back bodice? I don't really want to put in a CB seam as it would look funny but maybe I need to....?

Thanks in advance!

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Member since 9/18/02
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Date: 7/4/11 1:10 PM

Because the style is gathered at the waist, I'd add to the neckline and gather in the excess. Then it will look like it was part of the original design.

ETA: Oh, here's how you add to the length: slash the pattern across back horizontally at the level of the armscye, leaving a bit at the armscye for a hinge. Spread the amount you need, then true up the back fold line so it's straight. The amount you have to true it is the amount you'll need to gather at the neckline.
-- Edited on 7/4/11 1:14 PM --

------
Debbie

moushka

moushka  Friend of PR
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In reply to Gemaki


Date: 7/4/11 1:13 PM

Love this dress. It's going to look great in silk charmeuse.
I'm not an expert but I have the same problem so I sympathize with your dilemma.
Could you remove a bit from the shoulder seam of the bodice at the neckband? You'd have to change the construction order a bit. Sew the interfaced front and back neckbands to the front and back bodice pieces, then join the shoulder seams, starting at the armhole side, stitching just slightly diagonally towards the neckline edge. A scant quarter inch increase in the seam allowance by the time you reach the neckline/shoulder seam line would remove the inch you need from the band. Then attach the front/back facing, which you've joined to match the shoulder seam angle.
This is only a guess and I would try out a quick 'n dirty muslin to see if it works, but it would raise the back neck slightly and tighten the band over the back neckline where it gapes.
I hope someone with more fitting experience will weigh in here in case I'm on the wrong track!
HTH.

Sue

Rhonda in Montreal
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Rhonda in Montreal  Friend of PR
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In reply to Gemaki


Date: 7/4/11 1:40 PM

http://www.friendsofpr.com/Ziggy/Back.JPG

http://www.friendsofpr.com/Ziggy/vest.JPG

Hi! A "professional" helped me do a high round back alteration for DH... The back turned out great. The vest had "side wings", though... SEAMS that when you spread somewhere, you have to take in somewhere else...

HTH
Rhonda
-- Edited on 7/4/11 1:41 PM --

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You are most welcome to visit us at:
www.rhotos-rag.blogspot.com/

Gemaki
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Gemaki
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Date: 7/5/11 6:51 AM

Thanks for the advice! I'll have a go at gathering the neckline - I think it'll look good.

Thanks again

Gemaki
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Gemaki
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Date: 7/16/11 8:07 AM

Update: I've made the dress in a cotton lawn (as a sort of test run for the silk) and I'm still a bit stuck. I made the adjustment an inch or so below the seamline on the back bodice and just eased in the excess which was fine. The problem is that the extra length can't do it's job properly because the neckband is in exactly the same place and the extra length is just pooling below it. Does that make sense? My question is: do I just redraw the back neckband 1/2" higher at CB and then the alteration on the bodice will be able to work properly. Would I need to add to the CB of the bodice as well or is that covered by the HRB alteration? Are there any pitfalls with re-drawing the back neckband that I'm missing?

Thanks

p.s. I will post a photo of the back later on if needed
Gemma
-- Edited on 7/16/11 8:25 AM --
-- Edited on 7/16/11 3:45 PM --

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/16/11 10:52 PM

Yes, we need a photo.

------
Debbie

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