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Forum > Fitting Woes > I can't move my arms in a coat/jacket. ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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I can't move my arms in a coat/jacket.
Bumble Bee Girl
Bumble Bee Girl
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 10/7/10
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Date: 7/7/11 3:02 AM

Hi all!
This is possibly going to be a long rant-y post so please bear with me. Well due to the fact that I can never find a RTW coat or jacket that fits properly, I've decided to make one. My main fitting issues are the bust being too tight that I can't button it, the waist being too big, the waist line being too low, collars being too big for my frame and the fact that I can't even move my arms because bust is too tight and/or the sleeves seem to be made for some sort of spaghetti armed mantis. Or for some other reason that I'm probably unaware of. I'm making a coat (Vogue 8346) at the moment while it mostly fits, I find my arms are as good as glued to my sides. I added 1.5 cm to the front side seam for a bit of extra room and theres enough room at the side seams. But the restriction is around the armhole at the front just above the bust. I can't lift my arms to even a 90 degree angle or move my arms back. This has happened to me before on many sleeved garments. How can I fix this? I'm guessing some sort of FBA but I'm really not sure. Or maybe extra room in the sleeve. My biceps are naturally somewhat muscular so that could be something to address...

aisling
aisling
Member since 1/27/07
Posts: 112
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Date: 7/7/11 3:12 AM

How do the shoulders fit you? are they too wide, too narrow, or fit fine?

I have similar problems with fitting a coat and the resaon I can't move my arms in a RTW coat when it's done up is because the shoulder are too wide for me.

Sew4Fun
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Sew4Fun
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In reply to Bumble Bee Girl


Date: 7/7/11 3:49 AM

Photos would be helpful.

How tall are you? Reading how RTW coats fit you it sounds like the armholes may be too low but without photos everything is a guess.

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Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Bumble Bee Girl
Bumble Bee Girl
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 10/7/10
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Date: 7/7/11 5:31 AM

The shoulders fit fine. Oh and I'm about 156/157cm (5'2") tall but I'm short waisted at 34cm (13.5" approximately) at the back waist length. So the armholes could be too low, but I'm still fairly unsure... I can't supply photos due to the fact that the computer won't detect the memory card and we don't have a cable to connect it via USB...

Sew4Fun
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Sew4Fun
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In reply to Bumble Bee Girl


Date: 7/7/11 8:56 AM

With a CBL of 13.5" I think it's fairly safe to assume the armholes are too low. If so, you need to shorten the jacket (back & front) above the armhole, then make a corresponding alteration to the sleeve so it will fit in the smaller armhole. Any good fit book will have detailed information on how to do this. HTH

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Bumble Bee Girl


Date: 7/7/11 9:46 AM

Bumble Bee, I could have written this about myself I also have that same problem and I'm beginning to realize, it's the armhole length involved. I've always been careful not to raise them too much, because I hate to have anything tight under my arms. I also have to have more taken out at the front of the armhole (above and along side the bust)because they are always too tight. I have to add to my sleeve width too. I have to do a one inche FBA and bring all my waist lines up an inch. Start with your high bust measurement for the neck and shoulders(I cut a 10 at the neck and shoulders and morph out to a 12). Are you narrow shouldered as well? I'm also 5'2, short/high waisted, 34Dbra... 36-29-36 1/2(inches). Are you close to my measurements?

nicegirl
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nicegirl
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DC USA
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Date: 7/7/11 9:53 AM

If raising the armhole doesn't fix it, you may need a broad back adjustment. I always had trouble with having restricted arm movement and finally someone suggested the Broad Back Adjustment. It has been a life saver for me! It's counter-intuitive because it feels like you need more room in front of the armhole or in the sleeve, but for me it is that I need more room in the back.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 7/7/11 5:20 PM

I've made the coat in question (just need to make the button holes, it's taking a while to work up the courage) and although I'm no expert in fitting I just though I'd add my experience so far.

The sleeves are not all that flexible. I don't have to widen the Vogue sleeves normally (I'm a size 12 for arms) but this pattern is fairly close fitting round the shoulders. My shoulders are broad in width but don't have much muscle on them.

I've overlaid previous (successful) sleeve pattern pieces over newer projects to get an idea of how similar they are. I'm not sure if this would help you at all get an idea (before doing all that sewing) if there might be any major differences. Good luck with modifying the fit. It must be really frustrating after all that work.

Bumble Bee Girl
Bumble Bee Girl
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 10/7/10
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Date: 7/8/11 0:58 AM

Thank you SO SO SO much for the help! I'm really glad that I'm not the only one who has these issues! I'm making the toile of the coat in calico so I don't make a mistake my lovely, lovely fabric. I ALWAYS make a toile (the only exception is with knits) because I need to do a lot of adjustments because of my shape (petite, short-waisted, erect posture, slim but quite hourglass-ish). So, I'll definitely try taking the armholes up and adding width to the sleeve as I did take out some width due to the crazy amount of sleeve-cap ease. And after laying other patterns that fit over the top of this coat, I can see that I'll need to take up the arm hole a bit. So here's hoping this fixes it...

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Bumble Bee Girl


Date: 7/8/11 8:24 AM

Bumble Bee, let us know if it works

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