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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Princess seam finish for unlined jacket ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Princess seam finish for unlined jacket
Deb Fox
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Deb Fox
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 8/26/05
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Date: 7/7/11 9:55 AM

I'm hoping for some suggestions for finishing the seam edges for an unlined princess seamed jacket. Normally, I would either serge or bind my seam edges, but on a princess seam, the allowances have to be clipped....any suggestions? I've tried just serging the two seam allowances together after pressing, but I don't like the way it looks on the outside. It creates a ridge on one side and throws off the smoothness of the seam..

Thanks!

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Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 7/7/11 9:47 PM

You can bind the seams, it makes a very attractive finish! But at the same, it is a bit fiddly :)

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a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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Texas USA
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 7/7/11 10:42 PM

Hear, hear for binding the seams. You can do it with a a very sheer fabric. Can't even remember where I saw this done recently but it was a reminder of how nice it looks.
-- Edited on 7/7/11 10:43 PM --

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 7/8/11 8:33 AM

I just Pink them.

EleanorSews
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EleanorSews  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/8/11 9:46 AM

I just make a silk organza jacket to wear over a sleeveless SMOG (stepmother of the groom) dress. I used french seams. The trick that makes it work is when you trim the seam allowance before sewing right sides together to create your final seam, pink the edge close to the stitching line. It gives the needed flexibility. My jacket did not appear to have a ridge when the seam remaining enclosed allowance was pressed to one side and my fabric had small flat flowers made of embroidered organza tossed about so there were some in the seam allowance altho' I did trim away as much of the flower as I could when it was in the seam/seam allowance.

ETA: When I set the sleeves in, I simply trimmed the seam allowance close and zigzagged. After seeing the insides of quite a few couture pieces from Betsy Bloomingdale's wardrobe, I felt quite comfortable that my finish was on a par with some of the sheers I'd seen.
-- Edited on 7/8/11 9:48 AM --

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

Michelle L
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Michelle L
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Missouri USA
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 7/8/11 10:07 AM

I have done both hong kong binding and french seams on princess seams in the past. In those cases, I did not clip the seam allowances, but I suppose that would depend on the kind of fabric you use...and whether that fabric had a bit of give to it, and if it would take a lot of pressing and steaming.

What kind of fabric are you using?

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Kisha
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Kisha
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Date: 7/8/11 11:08 AM

I have an unlined Jones of NY princess seam jacket made out of stretch poplin. Probably a midweight. The seams have a hong kong finish with the sleeves just serged. It looks like the seam allowance is about 1/2 inch. Instead of bias strips, I've used a lightweight knit cut on the cross grain to bind seams. Works well ... got the tip from one of Sandra Betzina's books.

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Machine Stable: Bernina 165, Elna Lotus TSP, Babylock Imagine, Babylock Coverstitch and my newest baby Janome 350E

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