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Have you made Vogue 1250, the dress of the moment?
4-way stretch v. 2-way stretch knit
marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 7/19/11 6:58 PM

I'm jumping onto the Vogue 1250 bandwagon, and trying to choose fabric from my stash.

I've noticed that the pattern review photos vary in the way the dress fits across the front lower abdomen. Some versions have some pooling of fabric there, others do not. Even the pattern envelope photo shows a little pooling. Maybe this 'little' pooling is a design feature, and you have to tweak to get it just right?

Anyway, I'm not in favor of pooling there on my body, so I'm wondering -- Those of you who have made this up already: Did you use 4-way stretch or 2-way stretch fabric, and how do you think this factor affected your fit? The pattern envelope specifies '2-way stretch.' By this, do you think they mean both crosswise and lengthwise stretch, or just crosswise stretch? Since 2-way isn't usually specified, I'm thinking both crosswise and lengthwise.

I've looked through the pattern reviews and I don't see a clear relationship between fabric used and the fit, and of course it's not always clear what stretch someone's fabric has. However, I'm leaning toward a 4-way stretch to try to avoid the pooling. What do others think?

Thanks for any help!

------
marjoriekh

Kay Y
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Date: 7/19/11 7:56 PM

Both of mine are stretchy in both directions. I do not think the pooling factor has anything to do with the amount of stretch, but rather with the amount of ease. The dress is quite snug fitting below the waist (3 cm or just over 1" ease). It is loose and drapey at the bust line and above. Pooling will result from how it fits below the cowl. If you find it too loose, you could sew the side seams snugger through the rib area (below bust line) to reduce pooling. This would not affect the cowl.

GlobalMom
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Date: 7/19/11 8:48 PM

Mine was a 4 way stretch rayon/lycra border print. I took advantage of the stretch in the lengthwise direction because I rotated the cutting layout in order to have the hem along the border print selvedge.

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Debora, of Chicago and Frankfurt
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Kim12469
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Date: 7/19/11 8:53 PM

I also think the pooling will depend on how you're built and the amount of ease you have in your dress.

I made one out of 4 way poly and it didn't pool any more or less than the 2 way cotton knit I just made it out of. But I think the first one was too snug on me, my preference though.

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http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/

Sew Confused
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Date: 7/19/11 9:47 PM

It looks to me as though the "pooling" is designed into the dress. If some people don't have pooling, I wonder if they are longer waisted.

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

Debbie Cook
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In reply to Sew Confused


Date: 7/19/11 10:13 PM

Quote:
If some people don't have pooling, I wonder if they are longer waisted.


Or have belly and/or boobage to plug the pool (me).

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Jacqui315
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Date: 7/20/11 1:07 AM

I just have to finish hemming this dress. I used a lightweight dark grey jersey with only side to side stretch and I have that pooling in the front. I'm not sure I'm liking it though its one of the few patterns that Vogue recommend for recatangular shapes. Since I have a flat sort of bum, I try to avoid extra fabric in the front. Or else I come off looking pregnant.
-- Edited on 7/20/11 1:07 AM --

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http://sweetnotions.blogspot.com/

unfinishedprojects
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Date: 7/20/11 1:26 AM

Did you read my review of it? I had so much pooling under my belly that I cut off the bottom of the dress and replaced it with another skirt!

I think it's partly related to the size and the wearer. I did a lot of pulling and pinning before the scissors came out and found that if the dress is closely fitted through the ribs and waist area, it's much better. Of course, some of us don't want it too tight there...

lakaribane
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Date: 7/20/11 9:47 AM

My Sewing Aunt just bought me this pattern so I'm happy to read all the comments on this thread.

Thank you, every one who chimed in, really appreciate it!

This dress is going to make Best of 2011 for sure: 30 reviews between April 6th and today. And I know at least 4 reviewers have made more than one dress, LOL!

------
Fashion Maté, where I blog about what I (eventually) sew : http://fashionmate.blogspot.com
Addicted to Pinterest? Me too! : http://pinterest.com/lakaribane/

marjoriekh
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Date: 7/20/11 10:50 AM

This is very helpful information everyone, thanks.

Trying to summarize here:

No one has specifically said that it's the 4-way stretch that seems to be making the difference, and Kim12469 has made it up in both, and sees no difference. I had been thinking maybe the lengthwise stretch was helping to smooth the fabric over the abdomen area, where the design transitions from less to more fitted. (Perhaps the intended effect should be called 'draping' rather than 'pooling.')

In any event, this 'draping' seems to vary with the particular body type, so regardless of fabric choice, this area is likely to need individual tweaking.

Kay Y's advice to snug the fabric around the ribcage makes sense me, I think, and I'll start there.

Unfinished projects -- it was your review that prompted this thread, since you were so unhappy with your 'pooling' that you completely redesigned yours!

I agree with lakaribane that this pattern is headed into the Best of 2011; I'm hoping to avoid being someone who says, 'Pattern OK, but did NOT work for me.'

------
marjoriekh

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