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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Oddly-sized men's dress shirt ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Oddly-sized men's dress shirt
My honey has weird measurements!!
beltainelady
beltainelady
Beginner
AL USA
Member since 7/29/11
Posts: 7
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Date: 8/23/11 5:22 PM

Hello again!

My boyfriend is strangely proportioned. His neck is 18 1/2 (we usually go for a 19 inch collar for comfort, and his sleeve length is 32-33. A commercial shirt ends up being a tent, especially since he's lost weight. And the sleeves and shoulder seams are ridiculous!

So, I'm making him a shirt, using Simplicity Easy to Sew 4975 and some cheap fabric to work up a template.

The problem is, if I make the collar in the correct size (which is 3X) it won't fit the shirt body which is either 1X or 2X (he really fits in between the two at the moment).

So, do I make the entire shirt 3X and then take it in as needed? I already know that the sleeves will be shortened to fit, but what about the body?

And, since I didn't think to ask first *slaps forehead*, I've already cut out the shirt body to be 2X.

------
Jackie in Alabama.
Mother, lover, Pit Bull Advocate.
Punish the DEED, not the BREED.

Speech girl
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Speech girl  Friend of PR
Intermediate
GA USA
Member since 5/11/03
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In reply to beltainelady


Date: 8/23/11 7:20 PM

I would cut the shirt in the size he needs in the shoulders and chest, etc but cut the neckline and collar for the 3x (assuming this is a multisized pattern).

------
Kim
formerly mikkim
http://girlwithatimemachine.wordpress.com/

beltainelady
beltainelady
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AL USA
Member since 7/29/11
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In reply to Speech girl


Date: 8/23/11 7:58 PM

I did that, but when I'm pinning the collar to the shirt, it is WAY bigger. The pattern says the neck band should extend 5/8" from the ends of the front panels but it's closer to 1 1/2 inches.

------
Jackie in Alabama.
Mother, lover, Pit Bull Advocate.
Punish the DEED, not the BREED.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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TX USA
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In reply to beltainelady


Date: 8/23/11 8:43 PM

I would make muslins of key components until I got those parts down and then use that information to alter the pattern for a full muslin. If you have a truly thrifty thrift shop, it would be interesting to buy shirts that fit various parts of him, neck, shoulders, arms, chop them all up in a blender, spit out the parts that fit, baste the parts together and then use that as a guide. I'm sure he already knows that you're a pretty special girlfriend.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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NY USA
Member since 3/16/07
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In reply to beltainelady


Date: 8/23/11 9:05 PM

Here's what I'd do. Start with a size that fits the collar. If the shoulders are too broad, you can fold out the needed width from the front and back along a vertical line from the hem to the center of the shoulder seam. Once you get the shoulders to fit, you can take in the side seams to make the waist fit.

The length of the sleeve should be relatively easy to adjust. Just fold out the length around the elbow and redraw the side seams. While you're at it, make sure there is minimal ease in the sleeve cap. Kwik Sew patterns are pretty good about this. you won't get a very good look with a poofy sleeve cap.

Oh, and the length is easy once you get the shirt made. Just hem it to whatever length you want.

Collars and armscyes are hard, so I'd leave these alone as much as possible. If the armscye is just too deep, you can fold out some length along a horizontal line through the armscye and a matching line across the sleeve cap.
-- Edited on 8/23/11 9:07 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to beltainelady


Date: 8/23/11 9:06 PM

The stitching line and the neck measurement should be the same, or within 1/2". This means that the neck on the pattern should measure 19" if he has an 18-1/2" neck. You measure the neck on the pattern by starting at the CF on one side, such as the right hand side, going around the neck and the ending up on the left hand side in the front. It might also be that this shirt's neck is lower than the neck on the body, which would make the difference.

The neck and shoulders need to fit first before you change anything else on the pattern, so you buy the pattern based on these measurements. Everything else can be modified at the side seam.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

beltainelady
beltainelady
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AL USA
Member since 7/29/11
Posts: 7
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 8/24/11 5:58 PM

I just measured the neck band, and it is 23" without seams. The neck opening of the shirt is 20".

I assume that I can shorten the next band to fit, leaving 1" for seaming and it will still fit him? This is a standard men's dress shirt, nothing fancy. I've already determined that I will be taking in on the side seams since the pieces are HUGE!

(side note: WHY do the measurements on a pattern end up being much larger than they really are? Not only did I measure him multiple times, he was also measured at a menswear store and they came up with the same numbers. Yet, the 2X pieces are like TENTS even though he falls more in between 1 and 2X.)

------
Jackie in Alabama.
Mother, lover, Pit Bull Advocate.
Punish the DEED, not the BREED.

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
Intermediate
NY USA
Member since 3/16/07
Posts: 888
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In reply to beltainelady


Date: 8/24/11 6:50 PM

With a woven garment you need the garment to be a little bigger than the person. To fit a 20in. neck, you need a 21in. (or so) collar.

I don't know if you're comparing store sizes to pattern sizes, but you really can't. Especially with women's wear. A pattern 8 would probably be sold as a 2 in a store, depending on how fitted it's supposed to be.

Fannie Rebecca
Fannie Rebecca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 7/14/04
Posts: 34
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Date: 9/5/11 12:59 PM

Because the pattern is multi-sized it will be easier to cut the collar in-between sizes. The body of the shirt will be a smaller width.

See how the different sizes of the collar piece are drawn? With a pencil, draw a line between the cutting lines of the larger and smaller size. (Draw dashes and then fill in between the dashes.)

Find the collar band and do the same alteration for it.

Also draw a new cutting line for the neckline between the two sizes. Draw a line between the start of the side seam at the armhole and taper down to one or two sizes smaller at the hip. You will do THE SAME tapering line on the side seam of the BACK. Plan this taper to follow the first inch or so at the armhole and near the hem. That is so the pieces will join each other smoothly, as the pattern intends. Hold the back and front pattern tissues over each other to be sure the line curves match. You will be sewing them to each other.

When you cut out the body of the shirt, use the new neckline cutting line, the shoulder and armhole size he needs and cut the new side seams you have drawn.

You may have to adjust the body width when he tries on the sample. For the first fitting, pinch some of the fullness and put a pin to hold it. Remember to make an identical pinch on the other side of the front and right and left of the back. You may also have to pin out some of the fullness in the sleeve.

To translate the adjustment to the pattern piece, measure the amount of the tuck and draw a mark on the side seam of the pattern. Then draw your new tapering side seam line to this new mark at its narrowest part.

What do you do if the amount you need to take in to fit his body makes the side seams look all wrong? (Men don't have curvy sides.) Make a vertical dart.

To taper the sleeve side seams also take in an equal amount from both sides and make the curved line match on both sides since you will be sewing them together. Don't change the curve of the armhole.

You may have to make the cuff smaller. Use the same method as for the collar.

Vireya
Vireya
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 12/10/05
Posts: 893
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In reply to beltainelady


Date: 9/10/11 4:41 AM

Quote: beltainelady
I just measured the neck band, and it is 23" without seams. The neck opening of the shirt is 20".

Are you measuring the stitching lines or the cutting lines?

If you are measuring the cutting lines, this is exactly the sort of (apparent) error you will get. The stitching line will be longer (than the cutting line) on the neck opening, and shorter on the neck band.
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