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Forum > Online Sewing Classes on PR > bust too big or just the whole bodice? ( Moderated by Deepika)

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bust too big or just the whole bodice?
not sure which is my problem
New York USA
Member since 3/14/11
Posts: 1
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 9/4/11 5:33 PM

I measure around myself with a bra on at like exactly 32 bust. I buty say a 60s pattern in 32 bust, I sew up the bodice and it's huge. So I am a B cup and I am supposedly buying the correct size, but yet the whole darn thing is way too big. What type of adjustment am I needing to make though? I feel like the one I just did the darts seem too far apart like the bodice needed to be taken in down the middle but since I cut it already it's too late, but I don't see how adjusting the darts is the answer. I'm not sure how the pattern resizing technique helps, well only for modern multi size patterns, but they never change the line that is on the fold so that way the bust darts never change position either so how does somene bust 32 and bust 40 keep the darts in the same place just by changing all the other lines? It just doesn't seem to be something that works so far as far as making a garment smaller and I'm not sure what to do and I'm finding almost no patterns that come in my size. Even when there is a size 4 it says the finished garment will still purposely end up bigger than me, what for I don't know.
andye  Friend of PR
Virginia USA
Member since 5/9/09
Posts: 2065
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 9/4/11 7:37 PM

You could try making a fitting shell, which doesn't have "design ease" built in. It might help you figure out where the more fashionable patterns go awry.

Alternatively, Burda patterns aren't overly generous with ease.

Look for "close fitting" or perhaps even "form fitting" in the pattern description.

(Oh, just to be sure, some front bodices have a center seam, and if you want to cut it on the fold, you need to trim off that seam allowance.)

(also, this should probably go under "Fitting Woes" or the "Beginner's Forum")
-- Edited on 9/4/11 7:45 PM --

Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Lena Merrin
Lena Merrin
New South Wales Australia
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 647
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 9/5/11 6:22 AM

I think you should try making bodice block for your figure, or adapting a standard size to your personal measurements. It will solve your fitting woes, guaranteed.

Custom clothier and pattern designer.


Irene  Friend of PR
California USA
Member since 1/4/03
Posts: 978
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to jenfromzen

Date: 9/5/11 1:47 PM

Well, if your full bust measurement is 32 and you wear a B cup, your high bust measurement is about 30, and that would be your best bet for a starting point (in a typical Big 4 pattern). Depending on the style, you might want to go down yet another size.

Without going into all the complexities of pattern drafting, there is no problem with leaving the center front line in the same place. As size increases, shoulder points, bust points, armscyes, etc. all move farther from the center front.

Your bust measurement puts you in a twilight zone, if you want to make misses' sizes. Indeed, you may have to grade down. Alternatively, try junior sizes. These days, many fifth graders are larger than you (but probably differently proportioned). I can relate; to wear women's dress shoes, I my toes get squeezed--size 4-1/2 wide is practically non-existent.

Make a fitting shell, get an idea of what size you really need, and then plan on investing time in altering almost every pattern out there.
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