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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Best dart position for large bust?

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Best dart position for large bust?
lbreton
lbreton
Intermediate
Indiana USA
Member since 7/12/09
Posts: 62
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Date: 9/9/11 5:58 PM

I've been working on this dress:

dress

and have the bodice done (in the pic it's only pinned)

bodice

but now I'm starting to wonder whether I'd be better off moving the side dart somewhere else. Basically, the side dart makes me look bigger than I am (34H). I did an FBA on just the front part of the bodice (the plaid portion) and it seemed to work well, but I just can't seem to get over the position of the dart.

I think I remember reading somewhere that there were better places to put a bust dart for those of us with larger chests. Any help will be appreciated.

thanks!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
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Date: 9/9/11 7:22 PM

Maybe it is the horizontal line ( fabric design ) that runs right across your widest bust area makes it look wide?

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KiwiWendy
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KiwiWendy
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In reply to lbreton


Date: 9/9/11 7:48 PM

I've found with a larger chest that how something looks flat doesn't necessarily relate to how it looks on the body - some have hanger appeal & some don't (I'm a UK 36H which is something like a 36J or L in US sizing). So rather than looking at it flat what does it look like on you?

Something that might be making you look bigger is the darker colour side & shoulders, that highlights the lighter part (the plaid) so it draws your eyes to the lighter section, which for you is, well, above average.

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shajarataddurr
shajarataddurr
Member since 4/26/11
Posts: 119
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In reply to lbreton


Date: 9/10/11 4:56 AM

I agree that we need to see the look on you to make a suggestion. In general I think a side dart combined with the fact that the two colors provide a dart where they join should be fine.

Brine
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Brine  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Illinois USA
Member since 11/21/04
Posts: 198
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In reply to lbreton


Date: 9/10/11 6:20 PM

Please ignore my earlier post.
-- Edited on 9/10/11 10:40 PM --

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Brine

lbreton
lbreton
Intermediate
Indiana USA
Member since 7/12/09
Posts: 62
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Date: 9/11/11 10:49 AM

here it is! In all it's glory. I want to make this dress again but I need to work out the pattern kinks. I don't mind wasting the fabric cos it wasn't the nicest and it was from a garage sale... anyway, I'm treating this as a muslin, especially since I'm less than happy with it. I'm trusting your eye and guidance on this.

front of dress

Basically, the FBA I did on the front of the bodice made it too big. I don't think the side darts are that bad but the whole bodice front is too baggy. I prefer a snugger fit.

I am proud of lining up the plaids with the zipper instal. so, it's not a total loss:

zipper, yay!

I think I need to make the sleeves go to my elbow- the length from the pattern wasn't very flattering. This next pic shows how wide the neck turned out. I also think I need to take the bodice in at the shoulder seam:
wide neck

Finally, here it is, belted. Here you can actually see how when I did the FBA, I added too much room in the front, which led to too much room in the skirt.

Belted dress

Anything else I should address when approaching this pattern again? I want to work on it this week so that stuff is fresh in my mind. Should I even attempt to do color blocking? But keep to two different colors, but same intensity? Instead of super light vs. super dark?

thanks!
Leila

babbling brook
babbling brook  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 12/27/07
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Date: 9/11/11 2:46 PM

I loved this pattern as soon as I saw it! After trial & lots of error (and reading style blogs) I learned a few tricks on how to minimize a full bust.

Generally, the advice is to avoid yokes, wide necklines, poofy sleeves and light colours at the chest. I once made a striped princess seam top which fit very well, but the way the stripes opened up at the bust accentuated my chest big time!

Scoop necks & V-necks are flattering as are fabrics that drape well over the chest. Heavy checked materials don't do anything for my chest, especially with that little dart that comes off the princess seam. Well-fitted princess lines over the apex or slightly to the outside are very flattering in woven fabrics. Wrap styles are particularly attractive since they give definition to that area. I also love knits since they skim over the chest without the need for much if any darting.

I wish you all the best on the completion of this dress!

lbreton
lbreton
Intermediate
Indiana USA
Member since 7/12/09
Posts: 62
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Date: 9/11/11 3:26 PM

thanks! I'm gonna try it with a solid bodice. I so want to make it work.

lbreton
lbreton
Intermediate
Indiana USA
Member since 7/12/09
Posts: 62
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Date: 9/11/11 6:44 PM

I reworked the pattern this afternoon. I need to go back and lengthen it about 3 inches but overall the fit is much better. I also did the muslin in a navy blue corduroy so it's dark (yay) and it's closer to the weight I want to work with next time I make this dress.

I'm excited about this pattern again! I don't think I'll be able to get away from the dark colors on the top so I'll have to get creative about any color blocking.

Any thoughts on two colors that would look good given my large bust and the pattern?

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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California USA
Member since 8/9/11
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Date: 9/12/11 1:04 AM

It seems to me that the adjustment resulted in messing up the block proportions. (I've had this happen with other patterns too) The side blocks seem to small to me. On the original pattern the block extended almost 1/2 way to the bust apex and was almost equal to the center block around the waist. You might have to extend the dart into the side block but I think that it would increase the effect of the dress.

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