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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Whether/How to finish the style line of corselette ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Whether/How to finish the style line of corselette
more questions on the corselette
Alice Wang
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Date: 9/11/11 10:30 AM

I've now finished one layer of the corselette with boning corselette and another layer which I propose to attach as lining for comfort (so the boning channels aren't sticking to my body).

First of all how do I attach the layers? I know some people who sew the two layers and using these to act as boning channels. I want to include the waist stay between the layers and add a buttonhole for it to come out to fasten, again for comfort.

I was reading Couture Sewing by Chaire Chaffer and she suggests adding a facing/finishing the edge with the fashion fabric. I wanted to check whether this is necessary bearing in mind that the corselette will be attached to the fashion fabric and lining later on.

Now I attempted attaching the sweetheart neckline layers (only 2 layers that time) here blue taffeta dress and I understitched the seam allowance into the lining layer.

So if I do want to do this to the wedding dress to ensure that the seam allowance stays on the corselette layer and does not misbehave and stick out, then should I bother finishing off the top (style line) of the corselette at all? Otherwise any ideas on how I should attach all the layers together? I have 2 cotton layers for the corselette, silk lining, organza underlining and fashion fabric (silk dupion)

Any thoughts/experience would be more than welcome! Thank you!

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Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

PhyllisC
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Date: 9/11/11 11:33 AM

Well, generally a corselette extends to just the waist and has a petersham ribbon at the waistline. It attaches to the rest of the garment only at the bust and the layers are understitched by hand to keep the edge of the corselette from showing. The intent of a corselette is that is hangs free from the garment and the garment skims over it. So with that structure there is no need to have the waist stay emerge form the lining because the lined garment hangs free. I'm not familiar with Claire's method but a facing on a corselette seems like an unnecessary extra step to me. Susan Kahlje illustrates corselette construction in detail in her couture bridal book. I've seen in person that famous blue dress from her book (I took a class with her) and I can say for a fact the corselette is attached only at the bust and there is no facing. Your corselette looks like it also has a skirt that extends down from the waist stay - that's not how Susan did it but I don't see anything wrong with that approach.
-- Edited on 9/11/11 11:44 AM --

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Alice Wang
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Date: 9/11/11 1:02 PM

Sorry I should have been more clear - re the waist stay,I meant having it between the corselette and the corselette lining,not the dress lining.

Yes I extended the corselette to include a skirt, so that I could attach the dress net to it. The boning has been added to just below the waist for ease of movement.

Phyllis, if I'm only attaching everything at the top, I assume I wont need to finish off the top edge of my corselette then?

------
Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

PhyllisC
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Date: 9/11/11 1:24 PM

A finish is not needed, but stabilzing the edges is a good idea so that the bias edges of the corselette at the bust doesn't distort. There are couple options for a stabilizer; a strip of silk organza selvage right at the seam line on the garment side will work, as will a strip of fusible tricot interfacing cut on grain(so it doesn't stretch.)

Stabilizing the fashion fabric on that same edge is also a good idea, there the stabilzer is placed on the seam side.

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http://coudremode.com/

Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity.

Alice Wang
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Date: 9/11/11 4:40 PM

What a great tip!I thought about adding organza selvage to the neckline of the fashion fabric but never thought of doing the same on the corselette!you said doing it right on the stitch line so not just below it then?I.e. do I stitch through the selvage on the corselette when I attach all layers?

I do want to add a lining layer to the corselette still, do I attach them at top edge only?cos if I do that then it would eat into the seam allowance which makes attaching everything to fashion fabric trickier. Or do I attach wrong sides together? I feel that I need to combine the corselette lining to corselette at closure too so effectively they move like one and are neater.

------
Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

Alice Wang
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Date: 9/12/11 1:49 PM

P.S. do people think lining the corselette is necessary? I don't want the boning channels right next to my skin but equally I think turning it over i.e. having the channels and seam allowances on the other side may increase the risk of everything showing through. But not having a lining will of course make my life easier

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Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

PhyllisC
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In reply to Alice Wang


Date: 9/13/11 4:21 PM

If the boning channels are in something soft like rayon seam binding (called Hug Snug here in the States) it won't bother you.

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Sewing = Fashion
http://coudremode.com/

Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity.

Alice Wang
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Date: 9/14/11 3:18 PM

Hmm the boning channels are store bought and they are made of densely woven cotton. They should be ok I guess but are certainly not the softest thing I've seen...

------
Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

dmariecouture
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Date: 9/14/11 5:51 PM

I recommend lining the corselette because not only will it be more comfortable, but then you can attach the corselette to the dress with just the lining of the corselette flipped so that the seam allowances of the neckline are all inside the corselette and don't show through on the outside. Does that make any sense? It's hard to explain. I don't know if that's how it's typically done, but that's what I do. Then I stitch the corselette lining to the seam allowance to make it lie flat on the inside.

Alice Wang
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Date: 9/15/11 3:29 PM

dmariecouture - yes that does make sense. So you would attach all the other layers (other than the corselette lining) as they would lie, then attach the whole lot to the corselette lining RST and understitch the seam allowance to the latter?

So I guess I sort of answered my own question... (if what I said above is right). I don't need to worry about attaching the corselette lining until at the very end of the assembly?

Does my plan of keeping the waist stay between the corselette and corselette lining and sewing buttonholes for that to come through sound sensible?

Thanks again!

------
Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

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