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Forum > Fitting Woes > Slanted seams on Vogue 7762 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Slanted seams on Vogue 7762
Mic9970
Mic9970
Member since 2/10/11
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Date: 9/21/11 9:07 AM

I have been making Vogue 7762, a semi-fitted straight dress with side front pleats. http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid=23153

Now the dress is made up, it looks great on my dressform and on the hanger, but as soon as it's on a person, the back seam is pulling to the left, as is the left side seam, so the whole dress seems to be twisted around. I am sure it must have something to do with the grain on the front piece, although I followed the layout instructions. The dress is a write off I fear, but it would be good to know what exactly I did wrong. Can anyone help?

EMSB
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EMSB
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Tennessee USA
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Date: 9/21/11 10:03 AM

What fabric did you use?

Mic9970
Mic9970
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Date: 9/21/11 10:07 AM

It's a lovely quality lightweight wool crepe. as suggested by the pattern.

Sew it seams
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Sew it seams
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Montana USA
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Date: 9/21/11 10:13 AM

Can you post a photo of it on the dress form?

Mic9970
Mic9970
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Date: 9/21/11 11:45 AM

Hope you can see these images!

HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 9/21/11 12:12 PM

I'm not an expert, but to me it looks twisted to the left on the dress form. Are your seams exactly the same width on both sides? Could you let out the left side seam on the back and try pinning it differently to see if that side will hang straight?

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to Mic9970


Date: 9/21/11 1:31 PM

Waving a magic wand back to the beginning.......................

Cut the front dress piece as instructed.
Cut a front dress lining on the fold using your right (plain, not gathered) side as the pattern. The front lining will be just a flat and plain piece, there will be no gathering at the side seam.
Stitch together the side seams of the front fabric and the front lining fabric. The lining should support the weight of the gathered/ruched side. The flat lining should also pull evenly on the back of the dress. Right now, it appears that it is the side gathering/ruching that is pulling and twisting the back of the dress forward.
(It would be best to do the same with the back.)
Think of it as the Statue of Liberty with the internal structure supporting the folds of the exterior covering.

Can you fix it? You could try making a lining for the front and back. Since you've done such a beautiful job on the dress, you could make the lining almost like a slip. No sleeves and the neckline cut slightly lower than the dress neckline. Once the lining was made, it would need to be attached to the side seams, from the underarm to at least to the bottom of your rear; perhaps even as far down as mid thigh. Again, the idea would be that the lining would provide a structural base for the front fabric to only drape over.

I cringe to think that you might tell me the dress is already lined. If the dress is already lined, was the front lining cut identically to the front garment fabric; or, was it cut flat and with no details as I described?

This is a very popular and beautiful design detail right now. It is unfortunate that your project is turning into such a good learning tool for all of us. I hope that you will keep us posted.

We see this gathering/ruching on the runway a lot...................I can't help but think that if you were wearing it va-va-va-voom style, you know, poured in and glued on like the starlets, that you would not have the pulling to the side problem. If it had that really tight fit, your curves would most likely keep everything where it belongs. And, who knows what they do with fashion tape, etc to get the garment to look perfect for those runway shots.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Mic9970
Mic9970
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Date: 9/21/11 2:52 PM

Wow - thanks so much for your suggestions. This is the first time I've asked for advice on a forum - believe it or not, I'm quite an experienced sewer and was actually making this for a client. That said, this problem was really stumping me and I now see that it's a combination of your two suggestions. The side seams originally needed taking in quite a bit (the client wanted it very figure-hugging) and I think I must have inadvertently taken in more on the left than on the right. Secondly, I agree that the gathers are pulling it down and forward - it's not figure hugging enough to keep them in place!

Unfortunately (cringe away) I did line it, and I did it the same way as the fashion fabric (i.e. with the gathers). However, it's not attached all the way down and would be relatively simple to remove and re-do.

It's not going to fit my client now as it will be too tight once I've evened out the seams (there isn't enough seam allowance to let it out enough). Also I've already come to an arrangement with her as she wanted it to wear to an event on Friday and I wouldn't be able to fix it in time. However, I'm not going to give up on it and hopefully one of my friends / family will like it and I can redo it to fit them (it's too big and too low cut for me!). I'll keep you posted!
Thanks again x

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