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McCall's 4745 Civil war Costume
Need help with everything.
GinAA
GinAA
Member since 9/26/11
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Date: 9/26/11 8:02 PM

I'm probably too new to even be attemping this pattern but I have started. I am at the point of sewing the sides to the upper back pices but they just don't fit together right. I have check and rechecked my cuts and they are correct. I have read the reviews on this pattern and it seems this is a difficult one to do. I also need to alter it so that the bottom panels are full length to the floor. Should I just give up? I really do not understand most of the terms stated in the instructions either....

unfinishedprojects
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Date: 9/27/11 1:21 PM



It's probably the curved seam that's throwing you off. The outer edges will be different lengths, but if you measure right where the stitching line would go, they should be about the same. A princess-seamed woman's garment will have the same type of curve over the bust.

Start by staystitching the most convex curved piece (the side back) 1/8" inside the seamline with a small stitch length. You can clip slightly into the seam allowance to help spread out the curve.

Place the garment pieces right sides together, keeping the piece with the convex curved edge (side back) on the bottom next to the feed dogs during sewing, and the center back piece on top of it. Line up the stitching lines, not the outer edges as you sew.

The fabric against the feed dogs travels faster than the upper fabric layer, easily easing the rounder curve to the flatter curve. Curves stitch easier and look better when sewn with smaller length stitches.

This may take some trial and error, and you'll probably get a few puckers and folds before you master it. You might want to cut a few test runs out of scrap fabric to practice on before doing the real jacket.

Lengthening the lower part of the jacket should be fairly easy, since all the lines are straight.

Luckylibbet
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Luckylibbet
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In reply to GinAA


Date: 9/27/11 1:26 PM

I just took a peek at this pattern

McCall's 4745

and it looks like the back is an armhole princess seam.

Here's a Threads tutorial on how to sew princess seams - though the example is (or should be) more extreme than the one you're attempting.

BTW- it does indeed look like a difficult pattern - and maybe you should try an easier pattern first.

HTH (Hope this Helps)

------
Suo ergo maledicto

Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. - Steve Jobs

raymondmom
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raymondmom
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Date: 9/27/11 1:33 PM

Are you sewing for reenactment or just costume?

If it is just for a costume, you could do something simpler. For reenactment, there are many fine points to be addressed.

Joanne

------
Joanne

GinAA
GinAA
Member since 9/26/11
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In reply to raymondmom


Date: 9/27/11 8:11 PM

It's just for a costume and not even for the civil war. The upper part of the jacket is needed and then a duster length on the bottom with the front panels removed. I know this was quite an undertaking for someone with my limited experience but when I was younger I did this all the time but I didn't use a pattern. I de-constructed a garment and then piece patched it back together for what I needed. Thanks to everyone for the information and the links. I just wish the instructions would be more detailed and helpful.

auntie bellums
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Date: 9/27/11 8:24 PM

I do a lot of women's civil war dresses and the issue that you are having is quite common on the women's gowns. One of the things that I have found that works is that if you pin from both ends and the same time to the middle the two pieces ease together just fine.

I match the top of the seam, pin three or four pins at the top and then match the bottom and pin eight pins, then move back to the top and pin eight pins and then back to the bottom. By doing it that way you can usually get the ease in the right place so you don't have those issues.

One other issue might be the quality of fabric. If you used inexpensive fabric the two pieces might have stretched and then all you can do is your best. It's the curse of costume sewing.

------
It's not your mamma's sewing.....It's your great grandmamma's

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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Date: 9/27/11 8:40 PM

Elisa's Backporch Design, Video Tutorials

These are videos for sewing curved quilt blocks, but the basic operation is the same: sewing a concave curve (the "L" piece she refers to, or the "innie") to a convex curve (the "pie" piece she refers to, or the "outie"), matching seam lines, not necessarily the edge of the seam allowance.

I used the "Sewing Crazy Curves without Pins" technique to sew the princess seams on a Renn Faire corset just last weekend. Obviously, you'd set up your machine so that the edge of 5/8-inch seam allowance (rather than 1/4-inch) is at the edge of the presser foot or so that the 5/8-inch seam allowance is marked on the stitch plate (I used a piece of painters tape on the stitch plate to mark 5/8-inch). Use needle down, if you have it. Go slow. It worked like a charm.

ETA: Note that in both the Sewing With Pins and the Sewing Without Pins technique videos, the top (convex, "outie") layer is on top and that layer is lifted above the bottom (concave, "innie") layer, thus allowing the seam lines to meet under the presser foot. That is, the entire seam is not lined up as you begin to sew, but the seam lines do meet under the presser foot as the seam is sewn. Ack! The videos are much clearer than my wordy explanation.

CMC
-- Edited on 9/27/11 8:48 PM --

GinAA
GinAA
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Date: 10/5/11 8:12 PM

Thank you everyone for your hints and tips. I was able to sew the two curved sides to the back panels after 2 test runs. They look great!

Now I'm stuck on the Collar. The instuctions are not very detailed nor is the picture. They state:

"On outside, pin interfaced side of collar to neck edge, matching centers, triangles and large circles, clippng front and back where necessary, baste."

I can get it all lined up where it needs to be but what am I "clipping"? The previous instruction states to turn it right side out so the seam is to the inside. When it says BASTE, am I to sew it on the outside? I have looked around for some detailed instructions on collars of this type but have not been successful.

Thanks again for your help.....

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