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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Crowd-Sourcing Pattern Proportions ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Crowd-Sourcing Pattern Proportions
Help Me Make You the Perfect T-Shirt Pattern
3HoursPast
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Date: 11/2/11 11:04 PM

Hello-- I'm a dressmaking teacher and I recently started developing my own version of the "perfect" t-shirt. I want one that's simple enough to sew in a short sitting at my machine, that doesn't use much fabric, and that feels great to wear.

I'm working with a cut-on sleeve. I realized it's super popular in vintage patterns for a reason- it allows airflow, but it doesn't show your bra the way a sleeveless shirt does. My perfect basic t-shirt has a round neckline, and stops 3" below my waist so I can easily tuck it in, or not tuck it in. I tend to wear my skirts and pants at my waist, so long t-shirts end up bunching and looking weird no matter what I do.

My personal pattern is pretty well fine-tuned. I started mentioning the project to friends of mine who asked me for the pattern. I calibrated it to their proportions, and it works on other body types!

So now I'm extending a call to everyone who has trouble finding a simple shirt pattern that fits. This is no-fuss, uncomplicated sewing. I'd really like to know what fit issues people in the online sewing community commonly struggle with. I wrote a post about this over at my blog, basically I see the same three alterations time after time after time:

FBA

One size on top, 1-2 sizes larger through the waist and hips

So called "sway back" is another common one.

I'm working out a multi-sized pattern, but I want to work off the proportions of real women, real sewists. If you'd like to, I'd love input from sewists everywhere about their own fitting woes. If you'd like to join the conversation on this topic, check out my blog. I'll be checking here, too, and I'd really appreciate any help for making a well-proportioned multi-size pattern. The more input I can gather at this stage, the better the finished pattern.

(My largest size so far is 47" bust and 43" waist... It looks good on my pattern tester and she's happy with her shirt so I'm happy too. My smallest so far is 30" bust, and I haven't seen her finished top yet but feel confident....)

Pattern Alterations- Let's List and Vanquish Them

If you'd feel more comfortable emailing me your fit issues, please do- stephc ( at ) 3hourspast (dot ) com. I'd be very pleased to work with bust/waist/front waist measurements, but even having an idea of common fitting issues is great.

Thank you!
-- Edited on 11/2/11 11:07 PM --
-- Edited on 11/3/11 1:46 AM --

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http://3hourspast.com- Vintage Style, Sewing, and Ethical Fashion

Sherril Miller
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Date: 11/3/11 0:09 AM

My perfect t-shirt needs to have the sway back AND a high round back alterations. A center back seam is a MUST!
-- Edited on 11/3/11 0:10 AM --

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

marec
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In reply to 3HoursPast


Date: 11/3/11 1:37 AM

Steph, the link above is not linking back to your blog, but to a non-existent thread here on PR. BTW, I left a comment for you re:fitting issues for petites.

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

3HoursPast
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Date: 11/3/11 1:47 AM

Thanks Marec, I think I fixed it.

Thanks, Sherrill! Every bit of info helps. :)

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http://3hourspast.com- Vintage Style, Sewing, and Ethical Fashion

BeeJ
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Date: 11/3/11 8:24 PM

Armholes that aren't down to our navels.

Erin Sooit
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Date: 11/3/11 10:55 PM

While I haven't given much attention to creating a basic, well fitting t-shirt, I would appreciate having one! I would want it to fit my shoulders (small frame size 10 big 4) have room for my D cup chest (FBA) show that I have a waist (not the bulges), and not bunch up because of my hip fluff. It seems when I add width to a t-shirt, there is too much fabric.

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For photos of sewn garments and other sew crazy thoughts see my Tumblr blog andygrl.tumblr.com :)

3HoursPast
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Date: 11/4/11 3:43 AM

Thank you! I'm blown away by the response, so while I'm working on the t-shirt pattern I thought I'd share my observations on pattern alteration... It's just the way I organize my brain, and seems to work well... :)

Getting A Handle On Pattern Alterations

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http://3hourspast.com- Vintage Style, Sewing, and Ethical Fashion

Sewliz
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In reply to 3HoursPast


Date: 11/4/11 11:04 AM

My main issue with fitting is that we "diagnose" ourselves with horrible sounding deformities and the go about altering a supposedly "perfect" pattern to accommodate our personal deformities. Come on, we are each and every one perfect for ourself, it is that pattern that is not drafted for our perfect for us shape!

Using terminology like sway back and forward thrust shoulder etc. is a hindrance to successful pattern alteration. This may seem like a silly point but I will argue that it is the biggest road block to fitting our sewn clothes.

Our personal shape and the composite median shape the pattern is drafted for are almost always different. We need to understand the difference between these two to be able to choose a size in the pattern and then change the things in the pattern that don't suit our shape.




------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/4/11 6:44 PM

My biggest problem with T-shirts is that when they fit in the waist and hips they are too big in the shoulders so they gape at the neck. I have my own pattern that I copied from a RTW top that I like the basic shape of, but the original version had the gapey neck and was also just too big overall, so I've been playing around with it, making it smaller and more fitted in the shoulders each time I sew it.

Also, I'm never sure how to adjust for different fabrics with different amounts of stretch.

3HoursPast
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Date: 11/4/11 9:24 PM

Of course the median shape and our personal shape are different... That's kind of my point.

I'm also a pretty big believer in the words of Eleanor Roosevelt, who said something along the lines of "No one can make you feel inferior without your consent."

If I'm working with people to help them learn to fit themselves through the medium of blogging, it is necessary to define particular terms. There's really no useful way to discuss pattern alteration without using particular, precisely defined terms. I believe in separating our emotional feelings about our bodies from the actual physical puzzle of making a pattern fit. Once the pattern fits, I find those emotional issues dissipate. I'm also not using those terms in a judgmental way, it's merely an attempt to get a handle on issues that many sewists face and find difficult to address.

It's just not useful to use euphemisms and indefinite terminology when discussing pattern alteration. I can see the point you're trying to make, but I'm trying to create practical, workable solutions for real women who sew. I suppose if my approach is offensive to you, then you needn't take my advice.

Edited for grammar
-- Edited on 11/4/11 9:36 PM --

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http://3hourspast.com- Vintage Style, Sewing, and Ethical Fashion

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