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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Burda dress 7305: bias or on grain?

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Burda dress 7305: bias or on grain?
What would happen if I do not cut it on the bias?
mochimo
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mochimo  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/21/11 4:43 PM

I am planning to make dress Burda 7305 for my office Christmas dinner. I have not bought the fabric yet but I would like to make it in a wool crepe.

The pattern is designed for cutting the dress on the bias. I am not particularly fond of sewing bias cut fabric (I only made a bias skirt, actually, but it does not look and feel completely right ). So I was wondering what would happen if instead I cut the fabric on grain.

Would it work all the same or would the dress look strange?
The side seam pleats are the main feature of this dress. Do they need the bias cut to fall right?

Thank you!

------
Monica

ChristinePDX
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ChristinePDX
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Date: 11/21/11 4:54 PM

I love bias cut clothing, the garment will have more swing and movement, they also can fit the body better, and yet at the same time be more comfortable. Bias cuts were popular before the advent of knits, because of their natural give and cling factor.

But I have also used straight grain instead of place of bias, it can change the fit, I have found, you might want to muslin it before cutting into expensive fabric.

I am no expert, someone else might have some good ideas for converting.

Sew4Fun
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In reply to mochimo


Date: 11/21/11 5:07 PM

Cutting the dress on the straight grain will change the fit, drape and the way the pleats sit. However, looking at the pattern I'd say the pattern pieces are probably shaped like an L, so the top part of the dress is on the straight grain, and the skirt section only is on the bias.

For this reason personally I wouldn't change the grain. If you cut the skirt on the straight grain then the top of the dress will be on the bias. HTH

------
Belinda. Melbourne, Australia
http://sew-4-fun.blogspot.com/

Elona
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In reply to mochimo


Date: 11/21/11 7:59 PM

The bias cut makes garments a bit stretchy and allows them to be more form fitting without darts than is true for undarted woven patterns. They hang differently from wovens, and it's a very special kind of cut. For this reason, I would expect this pattern to have 'ease' that is very different from a woven dress of the same type, and I would guess that the fit and drape of this dress would be weird if you cut it on the straight grain. You could waste your nice wool crepe--and all your hard work, too.

I'd recommend playing it safe and buying a similar pattern that is designed for wovens. There are quite a few of this type around.

mochimo
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mochimo  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/22/11 3:48 PM

Thank you all for your replies
I'll follow the instructions then and cut the fabric on the bias.

------
Monica

ChristinePDX
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In reply to mochimo


Date: 11/22/11 5:53 PM

Mochimo, a couple of suggestion when sewing a bias cut garment is to make sure to let it hang for a few days before hemming. And some people recommend marking the seam allowances before sewing, because in bias cut they shrink down, because as you sew, you want to stretch the seams a bit.

Elona
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In reply to mochimo


Date: 11/22/11 6:08 PM

To sharpen up your bias skills (and maybe prevent a few deadly mistakes), check out this great article on bias by Marcy Tilton.

mochimo
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In reply to Elona


Date: 11/23/11 3:27 PM

Thank you for the link to the article. It is very helpful!

------
Monica

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