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Working with scallop-edged fabrics
How to make the best use of scallop-edged fabrics
ninaee
ninaee
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SINGAPORE
Member since 12/22/09
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Date: 11/30/11 0:47 AM

I've got a lovely cream eyelet lace with a scalloped edge and I planned to sew one of my favourite patterns dropped waist and gathered skirt with it.

But laying out my pattern pieces I realised that the scallops are along the selvedge so if I follow the grain lines on my pattern, I won't get any of the lovely scallops along the hem. Which is what I envisioned.

Can I cut my pattern crosswise? And if I can, should I only cut the skirt or the whole dress? Or is it best to find another pattern that is cut crossgrain to begin with?

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to ninaee


Date: 11/30/11 1:02 AM

I wouldn't cut your pattern crosswise as the threads from the fabric might drape more than you want, and you might have "dips" in your garment. But as a suggestion, I once made a dress with an opening down the left front with scallops. I'd use the scallops as openings, if I were you.

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ninaee
ninaee
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 11/30/11 1:38 AM

Thanks Miss Fairchild. I knew deep down that crosswise wasn't the answer. But I was hoping there was some way I could have the dress I envisioned when I bought the fabric.

happytobehere
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Date: 11/30/11 1:53 PM

I would think crosswise IS the answer when the fabric has scallops. If it's a stable woven, I'd say go for it
You would cut it out on the crosswise if it were a border print, right?

Vireya
Vireya
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Date: 11/30/11 8:10 PM

The scallops are designed so that you will cut on the cross! That's what they are for. Just do it.

MasoumaRose
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MasoumaRose
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In reply to ninaee


Date: 11/30/11 8:26 PM

Quote: ninaee
I've got a lovely cream eyelet lace with a scalloped edge and I planned to sew one of my favourite patterns dropped waist and gathered skirt with it.



But laying out my pattern pieces I realised that the scallops are along the selvedge so if I follow the grain lines on my pattern, I won't get any of the lovely scallops along the hem. Which is what I envisioned.



Can I cut my pattern crosswise? And if I can, should I only cut the skirt or the whole dress? Or is it best to find another pattern that is cut crossgrain to begin with?

questions:
Is this a stretch fabric? Most pattern layouts for stretch fabrics require that the stretch go around the body (crosswise), otherwise the fabric will lengthen after being worn.

I think that it will be okay to cut the garment crosswise (90 degrees off grain). The crosswise drape is somewhat different than being cut along the grain: I would check and see how it differently it drape by pinning the fabric to a dress form or over a chair to see how different it will be. If you can live with results, then cut out the pattern the way you want to.

Because this fabric was designed with a scalloped selvdge, I'm guessing that it was mean to be cut on the cross grain.

Have fun with your project!

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ninaee
ninaee
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SINGAPORE
Member since 12/22/09
Posts: 4
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In reply to MasoumaRose


Date: 12/3/11 9:47 AM

Thanks everyone. I have been wondering why the scallops are placed the way they are and how other people manage to get lovely scallops on their hems.

Masouma Rose, it's not a stretch. It's a sturdy woven cotton.

I think I'll just bite the bullet and give it a go. I'll let you know how it turns out.

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