Member since 9/18/04
Date: 1/26/12 3:27 AM
Oh, yes, I see why this is confusing. It looks goofy, but it actually makes sense, sort of.
Looking at the instructions, (Thank you Sew4Fun!!), I can see the sleeve shape isÖ interesting, for lack of a better word. Itís sort of a hybrid sleeve: at the bottom (the ďarm pitĒ area for lack of a better name), it looks like a normal set in sleeve. But above that, itís a gathered sleeve with a more or less straight seam line, and that part of the sleeve is sewn onto a straight seam line at the shoulder part of the neck band (yoke?).
In steps 9 through 19, you sew and finish the sleeves as separate units by themselves (according to whatever view you are sewing). In step 20, sew the bottom (ungathered) part of the sleeve (the ďarm pitĒ area) to the ďarm pitĒ area of the bodice. There are multiple references to circle markings, which I assume are right ON the seam line. These are important, and will be on the sleeve, the bodice and the neck band/yoke. Donít skip these markings. It is important to start and stop your lines of stitching on the CIRCLE marks when instructed to do so, not in the seam allowance. Follow the instructions about trimming and finishing the ďarm pitĒ seam allowance.
Now you have half of the sleeve sewn to half of the total armhole. The top of the arm hole (neck band) has not yet been sewn to the bodice.
In Step 21, sew the interfaced neck band/yoke pieces together. So far, so good.
Step 22 is confusing. What they want you to do is attach the neck band to the bodice & sleeve assembly, but thereís no need to do it all at once, as they suggest. They do instruct you to stitch it in separate passes (breaking stitches at the CIRCLEs). Iím not sure why you need to pin and baste all the seams at once (bodice and sleeve top).
I would do it this way: Take the neck band and pin baste or baste it to the bodice, matching the CIRCLES, notches, etc. On the back, start sewing at the CIRCLE marking (NOT in the seam allowance, but exactly at the CIRCLE mark) and sew straight across to the center back to attach the neck band to the bodice. Repeat on the other side of the bodice back. On the front, sew the front of the neck band to the top of the bodice, starting at stopping at the CIRCLES.
The top half of the sleeves and arm holes are not yet sewn. Pin the gathered sleeve top to the shoulder edge of the neck band. Adjust the gathers. Baste. Sew the shoulder seams starting and stopping at the CIRCLE markings. Follow any other instructions about trimming and finishing that arm hole seam.
At the CIRCLE markings, three pattern pieces come together: the neck band, the bodice, and the sleeve. By starting and stopping the stitching on the CIRCLE markings, the seam allowances at the point where the three pieces meet are free (flapping in the wind?) and can be pressed and positioned where you want them to be. This is similar to the way you sew ďYĒ seams in quilting Ė three pieces of fabric come together in a point, but you donít sew into the seam allowance, you sew only to that point.
At first glance, I found it confusing that you donít finish the neck band at this point. The neck band facing is not applied until steps 36 through 41. In the meantime, you sew and attach the skirt and insert the zipper before you apply the neck band facing (36-41). This lets you slip stitch the facing down over the zipper tape and slip stitch the facing over the neck band seam at the bodice and the top of the arm holes, thus enclosing that seam allowance. This should give you a clean , smooth, and neat finish on the inside of the lined bodice.