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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Darts For Shaping, Darts For Fitting ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Darts For Shaping, Darts For Fitting
Alterations Beyond Side Seams
a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/13/12 4:36 PM

Please help grow this thread with links to tutorials and pictures about darts.
-- Edited on 1/13/12 10:56 PM --

Just saw, and lost the location, that Debbie Cook has a pinned thread somewhere on FBA's. Will hunt that down and note it here as I know it will be loaded with information. Stay tuned..........
-- Edited on 3/29/14 4:20 PM --

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 1/13/12 4:56 PM

Shaped Basic Dart Last dart picture on page.

This is the best picture I can find to illustrate a curved dart as opposed to a straight dart. I've used longer curved darts in dresses and blouses.

In searching for a curved dart today, I had in mind changing from a long straight dart to a dart that started in a curve and gradually changed to a straight dart on the back of a skirt for someone with a small waist measurement that eases into an appreciably curved hip or bottom.

The goal of changing a dart in this instance would be to move a small amount of the waist to hip alteration from the side seam as that is not always where our change in size occurs.

I had this pattern in mind, Simplicity 4044, where manipulation of the back darts, in particular, can add just a little extra polish to the final fit.

Why would I want to fine tune a fit on this skirt? Looks, of course, but a fine tuned fit in the transition from waist to hip and over hip contributes to that lovely swish and sway that we all love in this type of flared skirt. Additionally, an excellent fit in this area will relieve the nice detail of the front waist from some of its duties in supporting the skirt and that detail will be able to stay crisper throughout the course of wearing the garment.

Future search term: dartthread

-- Edited on 1/16/12 1:47 PM --

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 1/15/12 7:29 PM

Turning a tale of woe into a happy ending with French Darts.

Controlling fabric distortion in an Off Grain Cut French Dart.

Pivoting a French Dart on a Bias Grain to Make The French Dart Run on Grain.

A French Dart question has come up on the board so I am adding more to this post. In checking on line, this is also referred to as a diagonal waist dart. However, many references point to the French Dart name being referenced in books earlier. So, more on French Darts.........

Converting vertical dress darts to French Darts in a shift dress, Sabrina -Student Designer

This, from Texas A&M, covers increasing bodice fullness on a variety of garments.
French Darted Shift, Kimono Styled Top and More - Increasing Bodice Fullness
-- Edited on 3/29/14 7:57 PM --

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 1/16/12 2:42 PM

This link, Princess Seams, immediately grabbed my attention with this opening line:

Quote:
Princess seams are a variation of darts,...
I had never thought of them that way before. I've always known that they are flattering to my shape and a great fitting tool but, apparently, my understanding of princess seams was too narrow.

I've used princess seams on patterns and have often added in a princess seam that starts at the shoulder line. Now, I'll want to try altering a traditional dart to a princess seam as illustrated here: Burda Style, Change Darts to Princess Seams. I'm not a fan of the obvious traditional dart and like the slimming effect the lower extension of the princess seam provides in reminding the world that no matter what my size, that I am not just one blob from the bust line down. There is definition at my waist and only I need to know if princess seams merely accentuate what is there or if they create the illusion.

Lucky for us, I just received permission to link to this great tutorial: Drafting Part XI: Princess Seams and Dartlessness . Thank you so much, LiEr

Particularly hope this helps many of you that are excited about sewing retro clothing.
-- Edited on 1/16/12 4:16 PM --

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 1/23/12 4:35 PM

Adding this link Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > treating darts in sheer fabric .

Great information in Elona's reply.

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 2/27/12 4:13 PM

Kimono Tops!

Just added a link in the 1/15 post above that included information on increasing bodice volume in kimono tops.
-- Edited on 3/29/14 8:01 PM --

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 4/7/12 1:17 PM

Don't know how long this promotional link will stay up so try to check it out as soon as possible.

This link shows the consecutive pages on use of darts in bust fitting from, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting By Sarah Veblen.

Also a great way to preview her book that we've heard so much about.Sara Veblen

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 4/9/12 1:42 PM

Multiple darts for fitting a full bust. I think my Grandma was a double HH, maybe a double FF. She was a bit less than five feet tall and ran about an 8 or 10 in the hips back when sizes were true. I'll never forget how proud I felt all those years ago when I made a pantsuit for her that fit. It was beautiful, she loved it and and was so pleased to have coordinates that truly fit her for the first time. That was my first experience in adding in extra darts.

Link here to find excellent illustrations and explanations for adding darts to a fitted bodice to enhance fit. Although the pattern has a high fitting inset 'waist', the same process can be considered for other patterns by including the use of shaped princess darts.

I like the idea of a light and breezy summer top with three princess darts sewn a little narrower than needed for fit and then carefully pressed to prepare for a vary narrow top stitch to mimic pin tucks.

Hmmm, these posts always get me to thinking. I could sew those narrower than needed princess darts in on the wrong side (the outside) of the fabric. Sew them just a little shorter too. Then carefully press, trim, turn, press again, and stitch again from the correct side (the inside). A French seamed dart! I'll dub it a French Dart for now, maybe someone has already done this - I'll be checking for a tutorial.

I also like the idea of double or triple unadorned princess seams in an otherwise simple garment to add an elongating element.

Full Bust Adjustment (or FBA for short) with the Rooibos pattern.

Rooibos - No 1006

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 4/9/12 2:26 PM

Finishing darts with a French seam.

Too bad, French darts are already used to describe something else; long deep angled darts that start at the side front of the garment and angle up towards the bust.

But I did find a tutorial for finishing a dart with a French seam. Maybe I'll redub it the 'French Kiss'; lots of twisting, turning and pressing for a very satisfactory end result.

Pattern Scissors Cloth, Sherry

Sherry has another dart tutorial in her sidebar which includes a real French dart, contoured darts and basic darts. She teaches, too! Lucky students. Everything about her site is great, including the Terms of the Trade.

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a7yrstitch
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Date: 4/19/12 11:07 PM

Bump for question.

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