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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > help with box pleats

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help with box pleats
jie

jie
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CA USA
Member since 8/11/05
Posts: 2
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Date: 1/27/12 1:11 AM

I have a beautiful wool skirt with box pleats that I washed and dried, and all the pleats fell out. I tried Ironing them back in, but it didn't come out evenly. The ratio looked off.

Originally, (since the waist circumference is smaller than the hem circumference) the width of each box pleat was smaller at the waist and then became bigger at the hem, and the pleats met each other perfectly at the hem. After the ironing, the pleats don't meet (have a gap) or overlap at the hem.

Is there a formula that I should use to fix it? Is there a formula to find the ratio of the waist circumference to the bottom circumference to calculate the folds? I'm so confused.

Thanks, and hope this is the right place to post this question.
-- Edited on 1/27/12 1:27 AM --

KBT Sewer
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KBT Sewer
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 1/4/09
Posts: 55
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In reply to jie


Date: 2/13/12 9:18 AM

Here are instructions for tapering pleats. This assumes you're making a pleated skirt.
1)Add 2" ease to your waist measurement.
2)Add 3" ease to your hip measurement.
3)Subtract your waist measurement from your hip measurement
4)Divide this by the number of pleats in your skirt (don't forget the inverted pleat)
This figure gives you the tapering amount for each pleat. It will be a very small amount.
You will need to pin the pleats in place then baste them. Try the skirt on to make sure it fits round your waist and hips. If all is well press the pleats with a cloth and steam.Use strips of brown paper under each pleat edge which helps to give a sharp edge.
I would suggest that this type of skirt is more suitable for dry cleaning. However, I have a kilt, which I've owned for many years. It has never been cleaned.I perk it up by basting the pleats closed then put it on a very low heat in the tumble dryer for five minutes or so. I then lightly steam it before removing the basting threads.
Before the invention of dry cleaning pressing with a damp cotton cloth and dry iron was the accepted way to get woollen garments clean. Hope this helps

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