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Bust Alterations
JAJenkins1971

JAJenkins1971
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 5/14/04
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Date: 3/21/05 2:05 PM

I recently bought the fast fit book by Sandra Bentiz.

While I find it informational, I have the following question. How do you alter a pattern for full bust if it doesn't have darts? For example the KS tank top. I sew quite a few tops that don't have bust darts and I would like to know how to fix the problem. (Once it fits in the bust, its too big in arm holes and too large through the waist.)

Is there a book that covers this or can you point me to a 'free' resource?

Thank you in advance.

Joan


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Joan

MariaDenmark
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Date: 3/21/05 3:13 PM

I don't know if this is a correct way, but when me and my friend was making her a good fitting t-shirt pattern, we used the pivot-and-slide technique from Fitting Finesse to add fabric to the bust/side point, and then we made a muslin of that and could fairly easy see where the dart should be (and the size). Then we transfered that to the paper pattern and made another muslin..
So that's the difficult way. Also Fit For Real People has instuctions how to do this on tissue (page 146)- I wish we had read that before we started:-)

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Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 3/21/05 3:35 PM

You would draw the slash lines onto the pattern like there was a dart and then create a dart with the FBA. You can sew this as a regular dart, ease it into the sideseam or rotate it to another area.

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

dillmana
dillmana  Friend of PR
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Alabama USA
Member since 3/20/04
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Date: 3/23/05 11:46 AM

Another questionScenario: I have determined I should sew a size 20 blouse (high bust) to fit well in shoulder/neck area. BUT need 4 inch for full bust. Should I pivot-slide to add at side seams AND ALSO do a FBA for D-cup adjustment after? Is the cup adjustment purpose to add for fullness of bust or to add the additional inches around or both? The more I read the more I'm confused. Can anybody help, please?!

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Ann--------------------There's no such thing as too much chocolate, too much fabric or too many friends!

ryan's mom
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ryan's mom
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In reply to dillmana


Date: 3/23/05 3:40 PM

What a GREAT question!

One that I have been questioning myself. I have a 34 high-bust measurement (size 12), but my full bust is 36 1/2" (B-cup). According to FFRP, it says to do an FBA if the pattern center front is not matching your own. This just didn't yield good results for me--problems with lowered bust fullness and other things and I'm a B cup so doing an FBA just didn't seem right in my case. So I tried the pivot/slide technique to add the difference all around. It worked great and so much easier. That's all I really needed.

Looking forward to a good response to your question.

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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Coverstitch: Janome CP1000. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

If you think your sewing is better than everyone else's around here, get out of my way b****. I hate sewing snobs.

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Neefer
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Neefer
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In reply to dillmana


Date: 3/24/05 0:31 AM

Quote: dillmana
Should I pivot-slide to add at side seams AND ALSO do a FBA for D-cup adjustment after? Is the cup adjustment purpose to add for fullness of bust or to add the additional inches around or both?

The answer to the 2nd question is yes.

The problem with adding a lot of fabric at the side for a full bust alteration is that, usually, we don't need the fabric at the sides. We need more fabric up front, so when you add a lot at the side, your garment doesn't hang as well as if you did a slash & spread fba. Also, there's the issue of shaping. If you need to add a lot of fabric, it probably means that you have a large, rounded mass (aka breasts) on your chest. Adding to the sides will get the garment over the breasts, but slash & spread to add or enlarge a dart, will give your garment a flattering shape around your breasts and arms.

I have to add 6 inches total to my top fronts (3 each side) for the gigantic ones. I don't need anything in the back. If you are making a large alteration like that, I strongly encourage you to explore the slash & spread technique. At first, it seems like a lot of work and very complicated, but it isn't. It can be tedious, but all alterations tend to be tedious. After the first 2 fbas, you'll be able to do fbas in your sleep. And it's totally worth it. It's much more flattering.

You could do both the side seam and slash & spread, but why? If you're going to slash & spread the pattern piece, just do that.

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Neefer aka AgitProp and Village Churl Sewing Blog: http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/

Bonny lass, bonny lass, will you be mine?
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But sit on a cushion and sew a fine seam,
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dillmana
dillmana  Friend of PR
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Alabama USA
Member since 3/20/04
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In reply to Neefer


Date: 3/24/05 5:48 PM

Jennifer,
Thanks for your input. I do see what you're saying about needing the fabric up front instead of to the side. No wonder I haven't been totally happy with my 'old way' of pattern adjustment. It's time to update my techniques.

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Ann--------------------There's no such thing as too much chocolate, too much fabric or too many friends!

Plantwizard
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Plantwizard
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Oregon USA
Member since 2/14/03
Posts: 334
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Date: 3/26/05 0:23 AM

Debbie,
I understand the basic theory and method of rotating darts but I still don't get where you would rotate the dart in a t-shirt so you would have no sewn dart at all. Side front maybe? Are there any pictures of this anywhere?

Thank you.

Jan Jeddeloh

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 3/26/05 1:26 AM

Usually in "undarted" tees the bust dart is rotated to the armhole and left unsewn. This makes for a bigger armhole and a wrinkle that will probably form from the armhole to the dart because you need a dart. Waist darts are either left in place and are unsewn or they rotated out at the sideseam.

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

mhk
mhk
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Ontario CANADA
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Date: 3/26/05 8:23 AM

Debbie, wow that was a "lightbulb" answer for me! For months I've been trying to figure out how to fit a tshirt without getting folds anywhere, reading everything related to it, and i just haven't been able to work it out. I don't like those armhole folds at all. So, bottomline, if you need a dart, you need a dart, and no amount of rotating or leaving darts unsewn will really work if you don't want those folds? I'm just average busted, but maybe a dart is still necessary if i don't want to be wearing tight tshirts that will stretch over the bust?
Marian

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