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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > What fabric for underlining? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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What fabric for underlining?
Silk dupioni as main fabric
Marie-Claude
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Marie-Claude  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/12/12 5:35 AM

Hi everyone,

I read the other threads, but I'm still not 100% sure with what I should do. I'm making a wedding dress using Vogue 1182, in off-white 100% silk dupioni. For lining, I'm using an off-white bemberg. Now, my problem is that I find the dupioni to be a bit too transparent for my (and my bride's) taste, and I'm afraid the seam allowances will show through the fabric. And my bride wants to be 'well contained' in her dress, if you know what I mean. So I would like to add a bit of stiffness to the dupioni. I thought of underlining my pattern pieces, but I've never done that and I wouldn't know where to start.

I read many of you are using silk organza, but I'm on a very limited budget, and I wouldn't know where to start to find silk organza here. Anyway. I thought of just using the cheap polyester organza available here (very soft though), but I'm not sure if it would do the job, especially to get rid of the transparency problem. Should I just lining fabric then? Or batiste?

I'm lost

------
Surgeon General says: "Ten yards a day keeps the blues away."
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clothingengineer
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Date: 3/12/12 8:58 AM

It won't add much in the way of stiffness, but I like using cotton lawn or batiste for underlining. I buy mine from OnlineFabricStore. I find that with the free shipping they are the cheapest, especially if you do a bulk order (10+ yards). Being 100% cotton it is also breathable and cool to wear.

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wendyrb
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In reply to Marie-Claude


Date: 3/13/12 0:29 AM

Hi, I just today learned that Dharma Trading in Marin, California has 5mm Silk Organza. At 45" wide the price is $5.49/yd, for 10 yds or more $5.15 and for a bolt per yard it's CORRECTION- $4.85. You'd have to check on shipping costs. I hear that's a good price. It really is light, crisp and if affordable, ideal for your project. Good luck.

Another thought- Sarah Veblen does an Underlining class on PR. I'm not sure how you'd link up with her former students to get the benefit of their experience. She's a fine teacher and probably has given resource lists you could find useful.
-- Edited on 3/13/12 0:31 AM --

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mmcp
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Date: 3/13/12 6:31 AM

I bought about 10 yards of silk organza from Dharma Trading a couple of years ago, and have been steadily working my way through it. Recommend it/them highly, and at that price, I can't imagine you would save any money going for cotton!

Marie-Claude
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Date: 3/13/12 7:48 AM

Thanks for the tip!! What would one do without PR I just ordered 3 yards of silk organza at Dharma Trading and the shipping costs were low enough to convince me!

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Surgeon General says: "Ten yards a day keeps the blues away."
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Alice Wang
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Date: 3/13/12 11:25 AM

Great news about the organza :)

In terms of the underlining, I thought I'd mention this tip underlining and seam finish in one

I used it for my bridesmaid dress and it gave such a neat finish! and it made my life so much easer! if you are interested, I've posted some photos here so you can see the finish.

HTH

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Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

Marie-Claude
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Date: 3/13/12 11:50 AM

Yes Alice, I actually did read that yesterday! So I'll definitely keep it safe for the next few weeks, when I'll actually start on the dress

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Surgeon General says: "Ten yards a day keeps the blues away."
http://www.couturlututu.com

kathi s

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Date: 3/14/12 1:40 AM

Wow! Great tip! I've arduously hand basted the underlining to the garment pieces, and wasn't crazy about the look of the seams, even though they won't show under the lining. My only question is does this technique make the seam bulkier?

BeckyMc
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Date: 3/14/12 2:34 PM

Just a thought: IF the silk organza is still too sheer for your bride's taste I have another fabric suggestion. It sounds bizarre and wrong, but I took a class once from a bridal designer who used good quality white cotton flannel as underlining. She pre-shrunk it about 3 times in hot water/hot dryer to get it good and thick. It gave a beautiful structure to the final dress. No boning showed through and certainly no seam allowances.

------
"Even as ye sew, so shall ye rip"
"There is very little we cannot accomplish if we have a positive attitude, tons of money and supernatural powers." Steve Eaton

Alice Wang
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In reply to kathi s


Date: 3/14/12 3:44 PM

Kathi,

I didn't think it made the seam bulkier, especially once it's been pressed.

I've basted underlining lots of times (now mainly when the pieces do not have straight seams so I can't really use that technique) and I'm with you - the seam finish isn't that neat! but I suppose sometimes it can't be helped.

------
Follow the progress of my wedding dress in the making and other distracting projects at: http://smoonbeam.blogspot.com/

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