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Collar Band on Knit Tops
makes me crazy
KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/23/12 10:23 AM

So, in an attempt to get over my love/hate relationship with my coverpro, I went from basting on my collar band to the coverpro stitching.

This Disaster is the result of my impatience. Worse, it is my own darn fault. I know I should check because I have so much trouble getting a band to lie flat. So, after sleeping on it, I am ripping out and starting over. These bands take longer than the entire tee. Just Venting to people who will understand.

threaddy
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 3/23/12 12:06 PM

I sewed on a ribbing to a t-shirt with the serger then went over it with the cover stitch and it made a fabulously flat seam. What I noticed is if I have the needles too close together I get that ripple on the knit. Could you try it with the needles further apart? Make a sample to test it out. Then try putting it on with the serger and then stitching over it with the cover stitch. The serged seam adds a bit of stabilizer effect. When I get to my sewing room this week-end I will monkey doing what you are doing and see if I can find a solution. I am determined to use my cover stitch as much as is possible in garment construction. Having a clear foot is a must though!

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"The problem is not that there are problems. The problem is expecting otherwise and thinking that having problems is a problem." Theodore Rubin
"Life isn't about finding yourself. Life's about creating yourself." George Bernard Shaw
Dan 9:24-27

Bernina vintage and computerized, Bernina and BL sergers , BLcoverstitch (a stray Pfaff and Viking followed me home too)

hazelnut
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 3/23/12 1:20 PM

Kathy, that looks like most of my necklines, so I feel your pain. I don't have a CS yet, but want one, and your post isn't very reassuring that getting one will be better. lol

It looks like your band is stretching, which is the same effect I get when I tried to topstitch after the neckband was attached with a serger. I realize you want to use the CS instead of the serger, which I would too - I thought that was the whole point of a CS!

Anyway, the last couple tops I made, I attached the band from the inside (like you may be doing with your basting) and then I flipped it over with a turned-under seam in front. I got a lot of great responses on this thread neckbands. Sorry, I had to remove my photos from that topic, I only use PR for pic's and I'm limited, but I can post some finished neckbands here that are not serged, but stitched, flipped and topstitched so you can see what I'm talking about if you'd like. Maybe there's a way you can incorporate this into your CS.

My first guess though, would be that your differential feed might be not set correctly - that has caused this type of stretching on my SM and serger. I also found out that my neckband was too long - I was using the patterns piece and now I'm doing the Sarah V's. type of measuring with round neckbands. I hate to offer advice at the same time I'm asking questions and having the same problems, but the advice I got on my topic helped me a lot. Unfortunately I don't know how well it relates to a CS.

Let me know if you'd like some photos.
-- Edited on 3/23/12 1:24 PM --

Judy Kski
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 3/23/12 1:59 PM

It looks to me like you didn't initially make your band short enough. As hazelnut mentioned, try this video from Threads magazine that Sarah Veblen did. I have it in my favorites and have done ribbed as well as self-fabric necklines a lot. I still refer back to it and have recommended it repeatedly here on PR. Good luck!

I still haven't topstitched a neckline with my CS, but will be doing so soon. I have to give an ASG presentation to my NG in July and the topic is CS machines.

One place I go to for information on general CSing is Debbie Cook's blog. This link will take you directly to the CS section so check it out. I know she's made a lot of knit tops that she topstitched with the CS machine. Hopefully she'll read your post and offer some advice.

-- Edited on 3/23/12 2:05 PM --

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Elona
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In reply to Judy Kski <<


Date: 3/23/12 2:07 PM

What Judy said: The Sarah Veblen video belongs in the library of anyone who sews with knits. It teaches you not only the cool technique, but also how to understand the stretch characteristics of the very knit you are working with.

KathySews
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Date: 3/23/12 4:44 PM


Oh this was not the fault of the coverpro (sorry if it sounded that way) I did not stretch the band enough to get it to lie flat.

I wanted to get to the coverstitch step to play with that and did not check that my band was lying flat.

I knew better and usually follow the Sarah Veblen process faithfully. I guess I got cocky after a few successes and needed the sewing gods to put me in my place.

Nancy K
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 3/23/12 5:00 PM

I agree, this is the fault of not having stretched the band enough. I don't use SV's method for narrow neckbands anymore, but use a single fold method from Lynda Maynard's book that works perfectly every time without having to guess on how much to stretch. I do nevertheless like to baste however I do it first to check if it is laying flat and then I stitch it with my serger. I don't generally topstitch with my coverstich at all since I like the dressier look without topstitching.

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wendyrb
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In reply to Nancy K <<
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Date: 3/24/12 3:08 AM

Is this book the Dressmakers Handbook for Couture Sewing? Could you give a brief description of Lynda's neckline band method? What do you think of her book overall? Thanks as I am unfamiliar with her work. I just googled her and realize she teaches in San Francisco- that's where I live.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

mssewcrazy
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Date: 3/24/12 8:26 AM

I've had a couple of those types as well. I finally quit trying to measure the band/neck ratio and just cut a binding strip. Some where I read pull tighter in the curved areas where it appears yours is wanting to ripple and less in the straighter parts of the neckline. Last year when I was making knit muslins I also found the cheap knits were stretching in the neck area also. One I took off the band and slightly ease gathered the neck opening and put a new band on with success. In the muslin my band looked fine but the neck opening due to the cheap knits recovery and handling it had grown. With knits there is so much variation in stretch and recovery and factors like a neckline area growing with handling that with the self fabric band you can get surprises. To my delight I found it is possible to redo the neck and save the top. Your shirt is nice so rip, ease stitch the neck if stretched out from ripping and pull the band tighter in the curve on the new one. I am no expert but I muslined knit tanks and sleep shirts and after a couple of these "disasters" I got a feel for the different knits putting on the bands and saved the later ones. Stupidly I tossed the first couple that had wonky bands and I could have saved them. Good luck it is really frustrating to make a nice looking top and ruin it with a wonky band-been there done that several times but seem to have conquered the wonky neck band monster thankfully. I sewed a lot of sleeveless knit shells that I like to wear under shirts and jackets and sleep shirts from inexpensive knits with varying stretch so I could practice without fear before doing the good knits. On sleeveless shells one gets to do the sleeve openings also so lots of practice with those and little risk. The coverstitch machine never caused the problem it was always my neckband that wasn't right.

KathySews
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Date: 3/26/12 11:35 AM

Well, this was a ripping out weekend. Removed and reset this collar, then decided to dress up the neckline with a pleated feature. The fabric is not shiny, but the flash kind of washed out the photo, but I think you get the idea.

Pamelas Pattern 104
pleated neckline
inspiration blog

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