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Message Board > Men Who Sew > Men's pants patterns ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Men's pants patterns
Looking for patterns and fitting tips
Mrs. Cecil
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Mrs. Cecil
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Date: 3/24/12 10:27 AM

Like many men of a certain age, my DH has a wider waist than hips which makes it difficult to find pants that fit. (think droopy drawers or buttless wonder.) I am hoping that some of the gentlemen who sew, or the women who sew for men, might have a suggestion for an easy to fit/alter pants pattern or some tips on what fitting details to look for in a men's pattern.

I can handle the typical women's issue (crotch depth/camel toe/smile, waist, thighs, tummies, etc...) but have never tackled fitting men's pants.

One thing I considered was buying/making the pattern based on hip size and scaling the waist up. Not sure how this would work in practice, but the pants would certainly look odd when not on the body. (ice cream cone shape?)

I did see another option in an old Threads where the writer described a French man she saw with wedge shaped pieces of elastic inserted into side seams of his waistband. (I think they were inverted triangles.) It might work for a smallish variance between waist and hip, but would probably stand out and be visible with larger waist to hip ratio.

Can anyone recommend a pattern for a flat front chino/docker style or fitting suggestions? I'd be willing to draft my own pattern if I could find a good book or instructions. I do have a book for drafting women's patterns but mens fitting issues are so different I'm not sure it would be adequate.

Any help is appreciated,

Thanks!

minggiddylooloo
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minggiddylooloo  Friend of PR
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Subject: Mens pants patterns Date: 3/24/12 11:14 AM

There are some basic Kwik Sew patterns, K3267 is a good starting point. Burda magazine has the occasional men's trouser pattern, I believe the October 2008 is one of them. I can check on that for you if you were interested in going with them.

Jack Handford's pattern drafting book is the industry standard (we used it in my computer drafting course when I was auditing fashion design courses). Handford's book is very informative and technical with no frills, sometimes the instructions takes a few minutes to interpret (for me anyway!) but it is quite comprehensive.

I do like Knowles' pattern book for menswear, lots of measurement taking for all the patterns but my last drafted pattern from this book has become a TNT pants pattern for DH. (Handford's book is out of state right now so I only had Knowles'.)

Both books are similarly priced on Amazon, you might be more interested in getting Knowles' instead of Handford's because her book is all menswear. Handford's book was <$20 when I purchased mine for class in 2007.

I have drafted pants for my husband as well as using Burda and Kwik Sew patterns. It was pretty easy for me to work with DH, he's pretty skinny with a lot fewer curves.

I don't have much fitting advice since fitting my husband is very simple. He carries a holster on his belt so if we're shopping RTW we need a 34 x 34 pair of pants, very tricky to find. This is why I started sewing my own pants for him.

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Coconuts
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Coconuts  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/24/12 2:50 PM

I don't know how much of a difference you're talking about, but Burda pants have larger waists compared to hips than either the recent Vogue or Simplicity patterns.

Mrs. Cecil
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In reply to minggiddylooloo <<


Date: 3/24/12 5:08 PM

Thanks for the info! I have some older Burda mags with a couple men's patterns, but they are all either pleated or loose fitting. I had seen ks3267, but wasn't sure if they ran as large as the women's ks patterns.

I looked at both of the books you mentioned, definitely worth considering since drafting my own pattern would eliminate a few fitting steps, but the price has gone up since you bought them and both are now about $50 which is a little out of budget. (Not sure what happened there, but I noticed that a few bargain books I purchased a couple years ago have also escalated to an insane price.)

David Coffin's making trousers book/cd might be useful for fitting tips (he has videos on his website too) and is budget friendly, but I haven't had time to really look at it.

-- Edited on 3/24/12 5:10 PM --

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to Mrs. Cecil <<


Date: 3/26/12 9:44 PM

On the subject of fitting mens pants, my DH has large thighs but is pretty standard on the hip and waist.

I have Jack Handcocks book and plan to draft my pattern in the next few weeks.

Can anyone give me some advice as to how to allow some extra thigh room with out the pleat? DH won't mind a pleat in chinos but he's wanting jeans.

Thanks
Sue

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Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Dynamo
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In reply to Mrs. Cecil <<


Date: 4/1/12 1:55 PM

I am just finishing up Burda 7841. It has a flat front. I am taking a dressmaking program, and this semester focused on men's tailored trousers, so I had help from my teacher re fitting, but very little was required. My husband is of a certain age also, and I recommend this pattern, although I haven't been using the pattern instructions as I have been following the courses's instructions, making a tailored waistband, putting a half-lining in the front etc. However now that I have a nicely fitted pattern I plan to make more pairs, not in a tailored fashion, like khaki's, and even shorts.
http://www.simplicity.com/p-7061-burda-style-pants.aspx

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