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Those rolls in the back of this T-shirt jumping right in with pix
Sewandwrite   Advanced Beginner MD USA Member since 5/16/08 Posts: 676	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/27/12 8:09 PM OK, PR friends, I'm taking your advice and jumping in with pictures of a fitting issue. At the sewing Expo last fall, I took Peggy Sayers "perfect fit" T-shirt class. The pattern is Peggy's Silhouette 195. She had us try on sizes of already sewn shirts then talked about tweaks for our individual bodies. A classmate kindly took these shots of me, and now I'm brave enough to post them here. Peggy put me in a size 3D and pinned up the shoulders to take into account the slope. Here's the front: Not too bad. Now I don't like how far the bust darts extend up my long-torso + low-busted self. Peggy told me not to worry about it But I've adjusted the pattern to drop the bust an inch (in addition to changing the shoulder angle). The back looks icky with those rolls around my bra strap: Do I need to make the area below the armpits wider to accommodate a wider (i.e., fatter) back? Should I add to the sides rather than do a broad back adjustment from the shoulder? My classmates told me I shouldn't go up a size in this pattern. Here's me in the next size up, which I have to admit has a bit of the look of a tent:
KathySews   Advanced Beginner MI USA Member since 10/1/06 Posts: 2892	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 3/27/12 8:34 PM I have sloping shoulders also, that is a miracle adjustment isn't it. I would say the back is too tight - want fabric to skim not highlight the rolls. Have you tried using a larger size on the back piece?
Nancy K Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7578	Login to reply to this post In reply to Sewandwrite << Like this post Date: 3/27/12 9:07 PM Just add a wider seam allowance below the armholes front and back. You need to make the sleeve allowances wider to match if you are setting your sleeves in flat so that they match. I like my knit tops to skim my body so as not to show my middle fat and the same rolls you aren't happy with. Thinner knits with lots of lycra are harder to skim over the body Beefier knits are easier not only to sew but easier to make into flattering garments. I like to make sure that the side seams are shaped gently at the waist area so it's slimming. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Sherril Miller   Advanced CA USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 7473	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/27/12 9:24 PM Why not combine sizes. Cut the neckline and armholes at the larger size and then come down a size for the side seams. Also, those sags at the back waist are caused by it being too long in the torso. Take a tuck at the waist and they will disappear. ------ Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well; and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL
Sewandwrite   Advanced Beginner MD USA Member since 5/16/08 Posts: 676	Login to reply to this post In reply to Sherril Miller << Like this post Date: 3/27/12 9:52 PM Quote: Sherril Miller Also, those sags at the back waist are caused by it being too long in the torso. I rejoice at facing this problem. Almost everything I've ever bought -- in RTW or patterns -- has been too SHORT in the torso. Sherril, I'm guessing you meant cut the neckline and armholes at the smaller size and then come up a size at the side seams. Nancy, for my muslin, I'm grading those seams starting at the underarms so I don't have to adjust the sleeves. Should I add width to both the front and back? Or do you think just adding to the back would work if I walk the seams? (Thank you Sarah Vebelen, for teaching us how to do this in your bust adjustment class.) Like you, I like beefy knits -- they're hard for me to find these days. But I scored some great beefy yardage at a thrift shop about a year ago. That's what I'll cut into after I tweak a muslin. -- Edited on 3/27/12 9:53 PM --
skae   Advanced MN USA Member since 4/23/07 Posts: 2738	Login to reply to this post In reply to Sewandwrite << Like this post Date: 3/27/12 10:55 PM Maybe you just need to make it a size larger just in the back. I do have to agree it looks like a tent on the front one size larger. On that same size larger cut the front down the one size smaller and leave the back the size bigger that you made it. Some people have broader backs. Hope this helps. ------ Galatians 5:22-23 The Spirit produces love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, humility, and self-control. There is no law against such things as these
CRUST Intermediate Member since 3/21/12 Posts: 87	Login to reply to this post 2 members like this. Date: 3/28/12 0:12 AM Is that front panel a woven? Is the final garment going to be using a woven front panel? Seems like an odd choice to me. If I were in your position I'd ditch the hyper fitted concept and go instead with a sort of boxier, sportier fit in a lightweight jersey that doesn't cling. You can still use seaming to give the garment some shape and the impression of fittedness without having it cling in a bad way. I do apologize that I came into a thread asking how to improve a garment and told you to scrap it and start over, but I think this concept is a better use of your time in the long run. I also disagree with the above comments about the top being too long. I have a lot of great knit tops that reach half way down my thighs, but they're relaxed enough in back to drape gracefully over my butt instead of getting stuck on it. So if you do stick with this, I would relax the fit in the back. -- Edited on 3/28/12 0:17 AM --
NhiHuynh   Advanced CA USA Member since 1/4/11 Posts: 593	Login to reply to this post In reply to Sewandwrite << Like this post Date: 3/28/12 1:54 AM I would try releasing some of the seam allowance and give yourself more circumference all the way around. This should be easier to do vs cutting another back piece etc. You could also e-mail this pic to Peggy and get her advice.
Erica B. Advanced AL Member since 6/6/06 Posts: 358	Login to reply to this post 1 member likes this. Date: 3/28/12 2:16 AM I don't think the problem is the shirt. I think it's your bra. A bra with a wider back would make a tremendous difference. ------ Erica B. Birmingham, AL http://www.ericabunker.com
Cerisa Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 8/26/08 Posts: 188	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 3/28/12 3:16 AM I agree with Erica. There are some great smooth backed bras these days with wider bands which can eliminate the effect that is bothering you.

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