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Forum > Fitting Woes > Those rolls in the back of this T-shirt ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Those rolls in the back of this T-shirt
jumping right in with pix
Sewandwrite
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Date: 3/27/12 8:09 PM

OK, PR friends, I'm taking your advice and jumping in with pictures of a fitting issue.

At the sewing Expo last fall, I took Peggy Sayers "perfect fit" T-shirt class. The pattern is Peggy's Silhouette 195. She had us try on sizes of already sewn shirts then talked about tweaks for our individual bodies.

A classmate kindly took these shots of me, and now I'm brave enough to post them here.

Peggy put me in a size 3D and pinned up the shoulders to take into account the slope. Here's the front:


Not too bad. Now I don't like how far the bust darts extend up my long-torso + low-busted self. Peggy told me not to worry about it But I've adjusted the pattern to drop the bust an inch (in addition to changing the shoulder angle).

The back looks icky with those rolls around my bra strap:


Do I need to make the area below the armpits wider to accommodate a wider (i.e., fatter) back? Should I add to the sides rather than do a broad back adjustment from the shoulder?

My classmates told me I shouldn't go up a size in this pattern. Here's me in the next size up, which I have to admit has a bit of the look of a tent:

KathySews
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Date: 3/27/12 8:34 PM

I have sloping shoulders also, that is a miracle adjustment isn't it.

I would say the back is too tight - want fabric to skim not highlight the rolls. Have you tried using a larger size on the back piece?

Nancy K
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 3/27/12 9:07 PM

Just add a wider seam allowance below the armholes front and back. You need to make the sleeve allowances wider to match if you are setting your sleeves in flat so that they match. I like my knit tops to skim my body so as not to show my middle fat and the same rolls you aren't happy with. Thinner knits with lots of lycra are harder to skim over the body Beefier knits are easier not only to sew but easier to make into flattering garments. I like to make sure that the side seams are shaped gently at the waist area so it's slimming.

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Sherril Miller
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Date: 3/27/12 9:24 PM

Why not combine sizes. Cut the neckline and armholes at the larger size and then come down a size for the side seams. Also, those sags at the back waist are caused by it being too long in the torso. Take a tuck at the waist and they will disappear.

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Sewandwrite
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In reply to Sherril Miller <<


Date: 3/27/12 9:52 PM

Quote: Sherril Miller
Also, those sags at the back waist are caused by it being too long in the torso.

I rejoice at facing this problem. Almost everything I've ever bought -- in RTW or patterns -- has been too SHORT in the torso.

Sherril, I'm guessing you meant cut the neckline and armholes at the smaller size and then come up a size at the side seams.

Nancy, for my muslin, I'm grading those seams starting at the underarms so I don't have to adjust the sleeves. Should I add width to both the front and back? Or do you think just adding to the back would work if I walk the seams? (Thank you Sarah Vebelen, for teaching us how to do this in your bust adjustment class.)

Like you, I like beefy knits -- they're hard for me to find these days. But I scored some great beefy yardage at a thrift shop about a year ago. That's what I'll cut into after I tweak a muslin.




-- Edited on 3/27/12 9:53 PM --
skae
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 3/27/12 10:55 PM

Maybe you just need to make it a size larger just in the back. I do have to agree it looks like a tent on the front one size larger.
On that same size larger cut the front down the one size smaller and leave the back the size bigger that you made it. Some people have broader backs. Hope this helps.

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Ecclesiastes 11:7,8 Nothing on earth is more beautiful than the morning sun. Even if you live to a ripe old age, you should try to enjoy each day, because darkness will come and will last a long time. (CEV)

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Date: 3/28/12 0:12 AM

Is that front panel a woven? Is the final garment going to be using a woven front panel? Seems like an odd choice to me.

If I were in your position I'd ditch the hyper fitted concept and go instead with a sort of boxier, sportier fit in a lightweight jersey that doesn't cling. You can still use seaming to give the garment some shape and the impression of fittedness without having it cling in a bad way.



I do apologize that I came into a thread asking how to improve a garment and told you to scrap it and start over, but I think this concept is a better use of your time in the long run.

I also disagree with the above comments about the top being too long. I have a lot of great knit tops that reach half way down my thighs, but they're relaxed enough in back to drape gracefully over my butt instead of getting stuck on it. So if you do stick with this, I would relax the fit in the back.
-- Edited on 3/28/12 0:17 AM --

NhiHuynh
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 3/28/12 1:54 AM

I would try releasing some of the seam allowance and give yourself more circumference all the way around. This should be easier to do vs cutting another back piece etc. You could also e-mail this pic to Peggy and get her advice.

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Erica B.
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Date: 3/28/12 2:16 AM

I don't think the problem is the shirt. I think it's your bra. A bra with a wider back would make a tremendous difference.

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Erica B.
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Cerisa
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Date: 3/28/12 3:16 AM

I agree with Erica. There are some great smooth backed bras these days with wider bands which can eliminate the effect that is bothering you.

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