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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Stretch fabric - topstitching on cross grain ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Stretch fabric - topstitching on cross grain
Oh, wavy, wavy seams!
JOshiro
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JOshiro  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/30/12 4:18 PM

Hi,

I am making Jalie 2908 (jeans) with stretch denim. When edge-stitching the pockets and waistband on the cross grain, I get wavy fabric. I'm using regular sewing thread (single thickness) for the decorative stitches. I'm using a denim needle.

1) I tried decreasing presser foot pressure, but then it didn't feed well and the stitching got very wonky (Morse code of long and short stitches). Also had skipped stitches, not sure if that's related.

2) I don't want to use a walking foot because I need the rudder on my edge stitch foot. (I routinely fall off the edge, even with the rudder, but that's a problem for some other discussion...)

3) I can steam a lot of the waviness out, but it never looks quite right.

4) I thought about bunching the fabric behind the foot, but I needed both hands to hold the thread ends and then guide the fabric (attaching the waistband, I had the entire jeans hanging off that seam).

What else can I try? Stabilizer underneath for the whole length of the waistband? Longer stitches (currently 2.7 mm)?

Thanks for your thoughts,
-j.

myeclecticmess
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myeclecticmess
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Date: 3/30/12 7:08 PM

My first suggestion was going to be to try a walking foot but I see you already addressed that. If you have a Bernina there is now a new sole plate for the walking foot that has the "rudder" like an edgestitch foot.

You can also try using a strip of fusible interfacing on the wrong side to stabilize the area you are top stitching. I do this a lot on jeans hems to avoid this problem and to keep them from rolling. On pocket edges this will also keep them from stretching out of shape after use. And on the waistband it will keep the stretch denim from stretching to the point of gapping and being too big.

You could also try the triple straight stitch and see if you like the look of this. It stitches each stitch 3 times and the back and forth action may prevent the stretching. Plus the heavier stitch stands out more as topstitching.

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JOshiro
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In reply to myeclecticmess <<


Date: 3/30/12 9:42 PM

Mine is a Janome, but the Bernina sole plate sounds intriguing! Wish I could jury-rig something like that!

I decided not to interface the waistband after reading someone's review in which she said it defeated the purpose of stretch fabric because the waistband lost all elasticity! I do have tricot interfacing that I used in just the buttonhole area, perhaps I will be bolder the next time and use it throughout.

My edge- and topstitching skills are so meager that I hesitated to use the triple stitch (thinking about what it would be like to pick it all out when I ran off the edge).

Thanks for taking the time to respond,
-j.


katlew03
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Date: 3/30/12 9:47 PM

You might try tear-away stabilizer used for machine embroidery. You place it under your stitching area and tear it away when you are finished. Any residue will wash away when you wash the pants. Since it is on the underside, you won't see it anyway because the only area that may not tear away completely is in the stitching itself. All you need is a strip about 1 inch wide times the length of where you are stitching.

------
Sewn in 2012: 176.212 yds.
2013 Goal: 400 yds (again)
Total sewn in 2013 -- 225.848 yds.
Total yards in inventory 1/1/14 -- 1752.5
Goal for 2014 -- 400 yards (for the third time)

Machines: Designer Diamond, #1+, H Class 100Q, and Viking 400 Serger: 936

simplystitches
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Date: 3/30/12 10:42 PM

Try longer stitches. I use a 3.5 or 4 for topstitching. Look at RTW jeans topstitching and you'll see the stitches are pretty long. 2.7 is pretty short. Or at least it is on my Babylock it is.

Even though you said you didn't use the interfacing it will help stabilize the waistband.

Depending on how the wb fits you, you may find that you need to interface to stabilize. I've made 3 pair of Jalie stretch and interfaced all of them. Even interfaced I'm having problems with the wb stretching out too much with wear. My next pair I'm using an even firmer interfacing!

Debbie

sew2006
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sew2006
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In reply to JOshiro <<


Date: 3/31/12 0:05 AM

Convertible walking foot with stitch in ditch guide

Janome has a stitch in the ditch walking foot available for their machine. You can also purchase the guide for an existing walking foot. Check the presure dial setting of your machine. If set too low on your fabric it would help stretch things. I would also use stabilizer and a longer stitch lenght.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

goosegreen
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Date: 3/31/12 0:23 AM

Spray starch may help. I would spray it a couple of times (letting it dry in between) plus use a layer of some sort of tear away stabiliser underneath.

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Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
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Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

JOshiro
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In reply to sew2006 <<


Date: 3/31/12 7:58 AM

Ah, a new gadget!!! Want.

I love my walking foot and use it whenever I can, but I'd given up after not being able to topstitch or edgestitch worth a darn with it.

JOshiro
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Date: 3/31/12 8:00 AM

I think I am going to undo the waistband and try again. At this point, I'm more inclined to recut and start anew than to pick everything out. Longer stitches, interfacing, tear-away stabilizer, and new/improved walking foot - got it. THANK YOU, everyone.

sew2006
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In reply to JOshiro <<


Date: 3/31/12 8:28 AM

A lot of commercial jeans also have the waistband cut on a cross grain to prevent it from stretching. Fusible interfacing inside and many use crossgrain ribbon at the seam line to prevent further stretching.

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Janome10001, Babylock ESG3, Brother ULT 2001, White 634D serger, Pfaff 1472, Singer featherweight, Singer 14T957Dc, Bernina FunLock 009DCC coverlock, Brother PQ1500S, Janome CP900.

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