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Facings?
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Dynamo
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Dynamo
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Date: 4/2/12 1:37 PM

As my sewing experience increases I find myself questioning the use of facings. I think I would prefer to either line a bodice, or use a bias binding around the neck and armscyes. Facings just seem to "hang" most unattractively inside garments and tend to shift about. Do patterns have facings because pattern companies think they are easier for the average home sewer than linings or bindings?

nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Date: 4/2/12 1:54 PM

I am with you. 95% (if not more) of facings can be replaced with lining or bias binding, which is what I do. I don't understand why they remain so popular with the pattern drafting companies, but luckily we are not bound by them.

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allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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In reply to Dynamo <<


Date: 4/2/12 2:11 PM

I actually saw a Sewing with Nancy or Marhta's sewing room basing the entire show on what you just said. I want to say it was Martha's sewing room. The guest for the day had quit putting facing in using only binding on all edges. She said fabric companies did not think the home sewist could do facings and that is why they are alway included. She did a wonderful tutorial on how to do binding but did say , however, it was very time consuming. I am with you I don't like the facings and have been just doing binding ever since. I wish I could remember her name maybe someone else on here will

gabrielle

gabrielle
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Date: 4/2/12 2:18 PM

I think facings have a place with some garments and fabrics by providing structure. However, I do use lining and binding most of the time.

Dynamo
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Dynamo
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Date: 4/2/12 2:25 PM

Ok, so its just not me. It's a shame, because it has taken me years to get to the stage of confidence to make changes to patterns. I have a bunch of tops with floppy facings LOL.

Ditto re linings. It seems to me that the majority of dress and skirt patterns are unlined. As a beginner I gravitated to these patterns as the ones with linings seemed way above my abilities. Now that I am capable of linings I feel it would be nicer to have the instructions included with the pattern instead of having to figure it out myself. Sometimes I don't want to have to think that hard, for dresses in particular.

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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In reply to gabrielle <<


Date: 4/2/12 3:10 PM

Quote: gabrielle
I think facings have a place with some garments and fabrics by providing structure. However, I do use lining and binding most of the time.

Same here. I hate floppy facings.

I've used a binding technique that Sandra Betzina wrote about in More Power Sewing where you stabilize the neckline by sewing 1/8-inch twill tape either right ON the seam line (or just inside; I'd have to check the book again to be sure), and then you do a french binding to cover it. The twill tape does give some stability to the neckline. There are many ways to bind a neckline, however.

When I DO use facings, I stitch them down, all the way around. I usually edge stitch right at the neckline (1/8-inch), and then measure and mark from that stitching line at about 1 1/2-inches to 2-inches away (depending on the width of the facing, so the stitching catches the edge of the facing on the inside). The "trick" to making this look good is that the stitching lines must be straight and even, no wobbles. Marking is important, and I use needle down so there are no "divots" in the stitch line. Also, the distance between the two stitch lines must be consistent all the way around the neckline.

When the stitching lines are even and smooth, this becomes a design feature of the garment and it "blends" in visually. If the stitching lines are somehow uneven or wobbly, then the eye notices that's there is something "out of place". This does give a nice stable neckline that lays flat and smooth. I think this looks and wears better than floppy facings.

I've seen stitched-down facings on some RTW and some sewing patterns, so it's not an original idea on my part. If a stitched-down facing won't work on a particular pattern, then I bind or line.

CMC
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Date: 4/2/12 4:43 PM

Many years ago, I learned to make a semi-lining to substitute for a facing in woven fabrics (before knits). I would draw a curved line above bust and then down to below armhole and a similar cut-off piece in back using the main pattern piece. It was sort of an all-in-one sleeve/neckline facing and it stayed in place.

Now I usually do full linings or bindings.

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allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 4/2/12 4:43 PM

yes polo type shirts in particular are done this way

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/2/12 5:18 PM

I've made all in one facings when I make sleeveless tops. They help to keep the perspiration down, and I think they look nice. However, with sleeved tops, it's pretty much bias tape or self fabric binding around the neckline. Here's a picture, but my facings are deeper.

-- Edited on 4/2/12 5:20 PM --

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JTink
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Date: 4/2/12 5:29 PM

I agree with all here. I still do facings in some of my garments. I find that as hot weather(and hot flashes) dictate my clothing, I stay away from linings in blouses. Most of my blouses are, by pattern discription, actually considered "jackets". But the lining can get too hot. I also find ways to stitch my facings down to look like a design feature.

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