Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Raising the neckline on vogue cowl neck dress

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Raising the neckline on vogue cowl neck dress
Deepika
starstarstarstar
Deepika  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 11/28/01
Posts: 11386
Founder

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/4/12 10:51 AM

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce the depth of the cowl neck of the popular vogue dress? This is just for modesty sake. I want to make a spring version for everyday wear and I prefer a little more coverage.

------
- Deepika
Founder, PatternReview.com
Blog: http://www.deepikablogs.com

marjoriekh
star
marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Deepika <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 4/4/12 12:44 PM

Hi Deepika -- my Vogue 1250 never got beyond the muslin stage, in part because the cowl was way too deep for my taste. Now your question has prompted me to work out how I was planning to alter it. (I am no expert, so please everyone jump in and comment on whether you think this will work.)

To make the cowl less deep, you need to shorten the neck/facing fold line (you need less distance between the neck end of the shoulder seam and CF). This is easy in a drape neck top or a dress bodice with a waist seam, but here the whole dress front is cut on the fold, so you can't change the angle of the CF fold line above the waist.

First, you should put on the dress you've already made, and decide how much length you want to take out of the cowl by pinching it where you want it to fall. The distance from your pinch to the CF of the cowl will be how much you take out of your pattern piece. Also, make note of the point where the dress begins to become more fitted in the lower bodice -- you will want to make your adjustments above this point, since you will be losing some ease.

Here's how I propose to make the alteration. (*** ETA: Below I post again with what I think is an easier method to achieve the same alteration.) Note that I am working with a section of the dress front pattern piece from which I have removed the seam allowances and the neck facing:
Vogue 1250 front bodice pattern before alteration. (I am using a freehand sketch here, not to scale.)

Mark the line above which you will make your alterations (green dotted line). Draw 3 lines (in pink) parallel to the CF fold, from the neck facing foldline (solid green line) down to the dotted green line. You will distribute your adjustment among these 3 lines, reducing 1/3 of your total adjustment at each line. (You can probably do it all at just one line, but I prefer to distribute it this way.)

Next, cut along the green dotted line, to separate the area to be adjusted from the rest of the dress front. (You can also cut just almost to the side seamline, leaving a tiny hinge of paper there.) Then, cut along the pink lines almost to the green dotted line, leaving tiny hinges there. Close up each of these slashes at the neckline by 1/3 of your total adjustment.

Reattach the adjusted bodice to the rest of the dress front pattern, matching at the side seamline on the green dotted line, and overlapping at the CF until the CF fold lines match up and make a straight line. (This shortens CF a little bit.) The adjusted pattern looks like this:
Vogue 1250 front bodice pattern after alteration

The last step is to true the neck foldline, drawing a straight line across from the end of the shoulder seam to the CF. ***ETA: The neckline and the CF fold must end up at right angles, so it will be necessary to extend the CF line up a bit and draw the line to that point; see the Fashion Incubator blog post Elona links to below. Then, using your original neck facing as a model, redraft the facing to match the adjusted pattern and add it back at the neck foldline. You'll have to pinch out the tuck on the dress shoulder line to accurately draft a matching facing. (Also add your seam allowances back at this time.)

So -- what do people think? Will this do the trick?
-- Edited on 4/4/12 4:28 PM --
-- Edited on 4/4/12 4:57 PM --

------
marjoriekh

Laurie Lou
star
Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 10/16/05
Posts: 405
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/4/12 1:08 PM

This is not to reduce but a different concept. I made this dress with a diagonal print and by mistake the center fell over to the side and made an interesting right angle to the print. I decided to pin it up that way with a broach and it gave the dress a totally different look. . If you get what I am saying, you just manipulate the drape so it comes across the neck to one side. The drape creates it's own natural dart and looks like it was designed that way.

------
Laurie Lou

marjoriekh
star
marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 3 members like this.
Date: 4/4/12 1:57 PM

OK, it occurred to me that there may be an easier way to accomplish the same thing:

Easier way - pattern before alteration

Again beginning with a pattern from which the neck facing and seam allowances have been removed: 1. Mark the point to which you want to shorten the cowl along the neck facing line. 2. Draw a line perpendicular to center front above which you are willing to lose some ease. 3. Draw a line from the marked point on the neckline to the intersection of the CF fold and the perpendicular line (green line).

Easier way - pattern after alteration

Cut along the perpendicular line from CF to side seamline, leaving a tiny hinge at the side seamline. Rotate the upper bodice until the green line lines up with the original CF fold line below, forming a straight CF fold. Cut away excess to right. Done (except for adding back facing and seam allowances).

(ETA: I missed an important detail: The neckline and the CF fold must end up at right angles, so that the neck/facing fold will go straight across the entire neckline. It's necessary to extend the CF line up a bit and draw the neckline perpendicular to it.
Like this (additions in pink).
Thanks, Elona, for posting that link to Kathleen Fasanella's blog below.)

This would seem to simplify altering the neck facing as well.

What do you think? Does this accomplish the same thing?
-- Edited on 4/4/12 4:52 PM --
-- Edited on 4/4/12 4:53 PM --

------
marjoriekh

Deepika
starstarstarstar
Deepika  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 11/28/01
Posts: 11386
Founder

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

In reply to marjoriekh <<


Date: 4/4/12 2:03 PM

OMG Marjoriek. You completely translated my thoughts into pattern alteration. That's what I've been wondering. There is extra fabric in the neckline area, how to get rid of it! This is perfect. I might have to try this on a smaller scale and see if that works.

------
- Deepika
Founder, PatternReview.com
Blog: http://www.deepikablogs.com

Deepika
starstarstarstar
Deepika  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 11/28/01
Posts: 11386
Founder

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Laurie Lou <<


Date: 4/4/12 2:05 PM

Laurie, I see what you're saying. There is a pattern similar to what you are suggesting on Stylearc. I think they call it creative cate top. Basically a cowl neck pinned to one side. I will have to try that. Now all I need is an interesting broach.

------
- Deepika
Founder, PatternReview.com
Blog: http://www.deepikablogs.com

Laurie Lou
star
Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 10/16/05
Posts: 405
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/4/12 2:44 PM

Interesting. I'll have to check Stylearc out. It is always nice when you make a garment you can ear it more than one way too.

------
Laurie Lou

marjoriekh
star
marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Laurie Lou <<


Date: 4/4/12 3:42 PM

In the upcoming issue of Burda Style there's a top that seems to have something similar (a cowl pinned to the side):
May Burda top line drawing
So maybe it's a trend.

------
marjoriekh

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8136
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Deepika <<


Date: 4/4/12 4:16 PM

Here's Kathleen Fasanella's discussion of the problem.

marjoriekh
star
marjoriekh  Friend of PR
Intermediate
VA USA
Member since 8/28/10
Posts: 550
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Elona <<


Date: 4/4/12 4:22 PM

Elona -- Kathleen Fasanella's method is the one I've used before on drape-neck tops/bodices with waist seams.

Looking it over again, I realize that the neckline and the CF fold line need to be at right angles, in order for the neck/facing fold line to be straight all the way across.

So, in either alteration that I posted above, that needs to be fixed.

(ETA: I added something to both of my posts above that addresses this omission.)
-- Edited on 4/4/12 4:59 PM --

------
marjoriekh

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Raising the neckline on vogue cowl neck dress

Merchants on PR
Style Arc sewing dress patterns
Patterns That Fit
Web site
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Clone Your Favorite Garment
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $49.00)
Clone Your Favorite Garment

Online Sewing Classes
Altering Pants
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $59.00)
Altering Pants

Simplicity 5983
photo
Review by Trephas200... on 1/16/07
Read Review

Sewing Workshop Soho Coat Pattern
Sewing Workshop Soho Coat Pattern

Details
Price: $22.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sew Chic Knapsack Pattern (ln100)
Sew Chic Knapsack Pattern (ln100)

Details
Price: $5.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Tea Party Sundress, Bloomers, and Playsuit Digital Pattern ( Size birth - 24m )
Oliver + S Tea Party Sundress, Bloomers, and Playsuit Digital Pattern ( Size birth - 24m )

Details
Price: $13.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo All Star Sneakers Digital Pattern ( Size 0-18 months )
Peek-A Boo All Star Sneakers Digital Pattern ( Size 0-18 months )

Details
Price: $3.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

BurdaStyle Magazine 06-2012-134 Dolman Dress
photo
Review by Dellia45 on 1/18/14
Read Review

Simplicity 1468 Pattern ( Size XS-S-M-L-XL )
Simplicity 1468 Pattern ( Size XS-S-M-L-XL )

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3911 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3911 Pattern

Details
Price: $10.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN