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Forum > Fitting Woes > Vogue 8626/ multi cup size coat pattern ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Vogue 8626/ multi cup size coat pattern
How to pick correct size
wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/12/12 10:22 PM

I am about to start Vogue 8626, which has the multiple cup size options in it. I intend to make view A but with the collar on view C.

Going by the size guide on the back of the envelope, I am between sizes (18/20), and would ordinarily be a D-cup.

Would I make the smaller size, with the D-cup pieces, the larger size with the c-cup pieces .... or because it's a coat and the added ease is desirable, the larger size with the d-cup pieces
I had considered making a muslin, but am unsure how much use that would actually be given my 'good fabric' is coat weight wool, and isn't going to fit the same

Having read other reviews of this pattern, there was mentioned in several of the more recent reviews that the bicep was not very roomy, but no specific information on how the coat in general fits.
Given that I am curvy and borderline petite, I am aware I don't want to be swamped by the coat being too big, but also want it to be comfortable.

Any suggestions or advice from those who have made this previously, or people more knowledgeable than myself?
-- Edited on 4/13/12 4:12 PM --

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Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

AndreaSews
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In reply to wenznz <<
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Date: 4/14/12 10:37 AM

I haven't made this pattern, but I have a couple thoughts. First, I think you should choose the size based on your high bust measurement. The cup size patterns usually give a guide as to how to choose which cup size to use. I think the D cup pattern piece is to be used if your full bust measurement is 4" greater than your high bust mmt. If it is greater than that, you'll need an fba. Fit for Real People (FFRP) has a really good section on FBA's on a shoulder princess seam like your pattern. IMO, shoulder princesses are easier to alter for a full bust.

At the very least, tissue fit the pattern. FFRP explains this well also. You may need to move the bust point first if gravity is your enemy. I am altering a shoulder princess seam blouse now, and I had to first move the bust point down 2" before making the fba.

Keep in mind that if you choose a larger size based on your full bust mmt, it will probably be big in the shoulders and back.

HTH, good luck.

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Happy Sewing,

Andrea
Babylock Evolve, Singer Featherweight, Janome, and a very old Kenmore hiding in the closet

Twizard
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Date: 4/14/12 10:02 PM

Also, keep in mind what you will be wearing under it. At least a shirt, perhaps a sweater? I wear a shirt and work jacket under my coats, so I need them with a lot of ease.

I too would recommend tissue-fitting it. The great thing about making a coat is that it can be roomier, as long as you aren't swimming in it.

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Pfaff 1471, janome 8050, bernina 830, Pfaff Passport 2.0; sergers singer quantum lock 5, baby lock protege, pfaff 794

Terri A
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Date: 4/14/12 11:01 PM

I have made this coat, and if I made it again, I would make it a size smaller and a cup size smaller. I'd also definitely add an ease pleat in the lining. If not, use a strong lining so it can take the pressure. I know it's a hassle, but go on and make a muslin of the top part including sleeves. That way you can see how it feels across the back and in the bicep and then add to the pattern. My armscye's were low for me. The coat is room oversized and comfy, but a bit too big for me. I wear DD and the D cup in this coat is overkill... I should update my review to reflect my observations over time. I really have worn it a lot - oversized and all...

Nancy K
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In reply to wenznz <<


Date: 4/14/12 11:14 PM

Make a muslin. Yes, you use up more room with your fabric, but a coat is a major undertaking and you need to work out all the kinks first. Like the biceps not being roomy enough.
leave out all the details so that you sew it up quickly. But, make sure you mark your cf so that you can see it on the outside.
If you are a D cup size this by your upper bust measurement and use the D cup front.
Try it on with a heavy sweater on underneath so that you can approximate your heavier coating. You may even have to make more than one muslin but for something that you are going to wear for years this is a small price to pay.
-- Edited on 4/14/12 11:15 PM --

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

QuiltSewSewSue
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Date: 4/14/12 11:18 PM

These patterns ususally have good instructions on choosing your cup size. I would have a look at those and not go by by your bra size. It may not be the same.

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Sue (Toowoomba Qld)
Love to sew....

http://quiltsewsewsue.blogspot.com/

wenznz
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Date: 4/15/12 0:49 AM

So am I correct in assuming I would still go by my high bust measurement, and then use the larger cup pieces rather than doing an FBA?? Or have I not understood these patterns quite right?

That would put me in sz 14/16 territory, rather than my original 18/20 thinking. Yikes!
-- Edited on 4/15/12 0:52 AM --

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Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

Terri A
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In reply to wenznz <<


Date: 4/15/12 1:01 AM

That's right, it is a coat so you go by high bust measurement. You don't do an fba on these patterns as it is already built into the pattern. I would make a muslin in the 14/16 (just the top part) with a D cup. If it seems too big in the bust do a C :-)
Happy sewing:-)

KathySews
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Date: 4/15/12 8:11 AM

Yes, upper bust then the cup size front. This should get a good fit through your shoulders. And I agree with the fit muslin. A coat is a lot of work and what frustration if the fit was off

Nancy K
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In reply to Terri A <<


Date: 4/15/12 1:52 PM

I disagree. I 'd make a muslin for the entire coat not just the bust area. There are other issues that may show up in the lower area that you really need to handle in the muslin stage. If there are a lot of changes you should make a second muslin.
I took a fit clinic with Kenneth King and he fit a jacket muslin for me. It was my second muslin and he told me to make another muslin before I cut the real thing.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

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