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plus size sewing question
best way to add to girth area..
GlynisA
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Date: 4/13/12 6:03 PM

I have agreed to make a shirt for a gal for her horse riding hobby. I have a pattern I'd like to use (Suitability 5599-OOP). It goes up to a 46 bust size, which works , however I need to add width to waist and hips. What is the best way to add .. should I add to the side seams or split and add in the middle of the front/back pieces or both? I need to add approx 10" for the hip area (the waist is approx the same as bust.).

Thanks in advance..

Twizard
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Date: 4/13/12 9:37 PM

I would recommend splitting and adding this evenly on front/back/sides. 10 inches is a lot to add to just sides. However, is she larger on one side than other. My left side is slightly smaller around than my right side.

------
Pfaff 1471, janome 8050, bernina 830, Pfaff Passport 2.0; sergers singer quantum lock 5, baby lock protege, pfaff 794

rmusic1
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Date: 4/14/12 5:32 AM

I'm two sizes bigger at my waist than my bust. A number of patterns annoyingly cut off just after my bust size. So I am used to manually working out how much extra is needed for my waist.

I look at the difference between the last two sizes, then use that to help me calculate how much extra is needed at each seam (in my case, if the pattern waist is only the same size as my bust, then twice the difference). If a seam does not have any difference between the sizes, I leave it be.

Having said that, the higher up in size you go, the more of a difference there is between sizes. I've noticed there is only a small difference between say 8 -10, but much more of a difference between 14-16. So you might need to do some double checking of the final measurements before everything is sewn together to check it is not too small/big.

m/m

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Date: 4/14/12 7:58 AM

You might want to consider adding more fabric where it's needed most. Louise Cutting recommends this instead of just adding equal amounts at the side seams. For example if you're fitting someone who is relatively flat in back with a large abdomen you should put the extra fabric in the front not in the back. Louise recommends slashing and spreading the pattern from above where you need the extra fabric. You end up with a pair of extra wedges of fabric in no-man's-land between the bust points and the center front. The wedges run down through the waist and abdomen (the wedges go up and down, not side to side).

SheBear0320
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In reply to m/m <<


Date: 4/14/12 10:16 AM

The "adding fabric where it's needed" approach is also recommended by Cynthia Guffey. I took some classes from her at a Sewing Expo last year and although I haven't had a lot of time to put it in practice the 3 garments I have made since the class have come out fitting better than anything else I've ever made for myself.

The way Cynthia explained it, if you put the additional inches only at the side seams and the inches are actually needed at the front in the tummy area, then you will get pull lines from where the fabric is (the sides) to where it's needed (the front).

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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"

2014 Stash Busting Sew-Along:
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Doctor Sister

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Date: 4/14/12 10:31 AM

I agree with adding fabric where it is needed. I need to add 10 inches to the hips also. But the 10 inches are all in the back. My stomach is flat!!!! I used to add equally all around the bottom of a shirt because that is what the books said to do. But it made me look pregnant in the front and they still pulled to the back. Now I add to the sides a little. I pick patterns with center back seam or I create one and add there. Then I do a slash a spread on each back (toward the cheeks). The pattern pieces look funny but the fit is better and the side seams hang straight.
Add the girth where it is needed. I suppose some people are equally fluffy all around but most of us have a big tummy or a big backside.
Good luck with sewing for another person - I don't have the nerve.
Sis

Michelle T

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Date: 4/14/12 10:55 AM

Remember to measure your friend when she is sitting on her horse. I know for me I have quite a bit of spread when I am sitting.

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Twizard
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In reply to SheBear0320 <<


Date: 4/14/12 10:20 PM

m/m and SheBear0330:

Thank you. That is a good presentation. I too am lopsided (although too much fluff), and the way you explained it is helpful.

------
Pfaff 1471, janome 8050, bernina 830, Pfaff Passport 2.0; sergers singer quantum lock 5, baby lock protege, pfaff 794

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