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Fitting neck and shoulders problems with height of back neckline
sewing bee Advanced Beginner OR USA Member since 12/14/04 Posts: 59	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/21/12 2:38 PM I am working on tissue fitting for Simplicity 1882 Amazing Fit dress. Simp 1882 My first challenge is the back neckline & shoulder. This is a common problem for me in sewing and RTW -- the neckline at CB is too high on my neck -- at least 1/2" above where it should fall. I have seen adjustments for this effect at the front neckline, and I am applying the same fix -- just lowering the neck opening to the level it needs to be. At the same time, I need more length for the shoulder. Seems like a lot of give and take in a very small space, so I wonder if there is a better way to handle these adjustments. Here are the altered pattern pieces for front and back -- original is in pencil and my changes are in green.
Lena Merrin Expert/Couture AUSTRALIA Member since 2/5/09 Posts: 477	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/22/12 2:47 AM Looks pretty good to me, but it seems you have shortened the back shoulder line by widening the neckline. Will you add some at the scye? ------ www.thesewingspace.com
Miss Fairchild   Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 6980	Login to reply to this post In reply to sewing bee << Like this post Date: 4/22/12 8:26 PM The green line for your shoulder needs to start in the corner of the neckline then curve. Otherwise, you've added more to the neck, rather than just curve more in the back. ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker "And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair
beginagain   Intermediate KY USA Member since 10/30/06 Posts: 266	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 4/22/12 11:14 PM This is a different thought. Check the bust. I thought I needed this type of alteration because everything crawled up my neck and my shoulder seams were slightly forward. It turned out that I needed more length in front. A FBA solved the problem. ------ If you wait for the perfect time to start, you'll never start.
sewing bee Advanced Beginner OR USA Member since 12/14/04 Posts: 59	Login to reply to this post In reply to Miss Fairchild << Like this post Date: 4/23/12 9:28 AM Quote: Miss Fairchild The green line for your shoulder needs to start in the corner of the neckline then curve. Otherwise, you've added more to the neck, rather than just curve more in the back. That's pretty much the crux of my problem. This does add to the neck, so I need to alter the collar. On the armhole side, I have raised the whole armsyce as I raised the shoulder, so the sleeve doesn't change, but I haven't found a way to make the neckline fix without increasing the length of the neckline seam. I tend to like patterns with unusual collars & necklines, so I am hoping to find a simpler way to make this alteration that wouldn't require redrafting the collar each time. beginagain: I've had that problem too, but on this project, I think the FBA is sufficient. The front neckline and shoulder are pretty smooth, so the whole shoulder area isn't being pushed up, just the CB. Lena: Thanks, I'll check the shoulder width -- it should be the same but maybe my tracing slipped! Thanks for your replies!

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